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Check Engine Light/Air Mass Sensor Repair Decision

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Luceee, Sep 4, 2014.

  1. Luceee

    Luceee Junior Member

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    I'm new to this forum. I've been driving with a check engine light for about 6 wks. Toyota charges $150 to find out why the light is on and it requires making an appointment. I went to another mechanic who hooked it up and got 3 error codes (shame on me, I didn't get those numbers) which led him to conclude I have a faulty air mass meter. He made an estimate for $285 for the part and $49 for labor. I checked back with Toyota to see if my Certified Used Car warranty would apply to replacing an air mass meter-it doesn't. They would charge $150 for the diagnosis and $250 for the air flow sensor, including labor.

    I did follow the instructions from this forum and did a battery check. It was slightly low-11.8 v. under load. My mpg has varied from 39 to <50 mpg over the last 9 mo. which has troubled me. The Toyota serviceman always wants to opine about the variety of reasons that mpg varies,, which irks me because I'm convinced it is a symptom of something more than weather or tire pressure.

    Does anyone have any advice about what the best decision is to resolve the check engine light? It did go off for 24 hrs. but came on during the latter part of a 150-mile trip.
    I'm new to this forum. I've been driving with a check engine light for about 6 wks. Toyota charges $150 to find out why the light is on and it requires making an appointment. I went to another mechanic who hooked it up and got 3 error codes (shame on me, I didn't get those numbers) which led him to conclude I have a faulty air mass meter. He made an estimate for $285 for the part and $49 for labor. I checked back with Toyota to see if my Certified Used Car warranty would apply to replacing an air mass meter-it doesn't. They would charge $150 for the diagnosis and $250 for the air flow sensor, including labor.

    I did follow the instructions from this forum and did a battery check. It was slightly low-11.8 v. under load. My mpg has varied from 39 to <50 mpg over the last 9 mo. which has troubled me. The Toyota serviceman always wants to opine about the variety of reasons that mpg varies,, which irks me because I'm convinced it is a symptom of something more than weather or tire pressure.

    Does anyone have any advice about what the best decision is to resolve the check engine light? It did go off for 24 hrs. but came on during the latter part of a 150-mile trip.
     
    #1 Luceee, Sep 4, 2014
  2. TampaPrius.com

    TampaPrius.com Active Member

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    Did the other mechanic share the actual codes with you? That would be helpful.

    You can try removing the mass air flow sensor and inspecting it. Sometimes a bug or debris will get on it and cause problems. It is easy to remove, just 2 small phillips screws hold it in. It is on the front of the air cleaner box.Pull it out and shine a bright light and see if anything is on the thin wire.
     
    #2 TampaPrius.com, Sep 4, 2014
  3. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Luceee,

    If you do have Toyota do the repairs for you, normally they will waive the "Inspection Fee" IF you elect to make the repairs. They do that to discourage people from bringing their cars in to get a free check out. In the old days, folks would bring in a car and get a estimate for repairs and the dealer would not charge anything. But they were still having to pay someone to check things over. If the owner of the car learned it would cost a bunch of money, they would simply say "No thanks" and then go up front and trade it in or take it back home or go elsewhere. Remember the free estimate days? Well, that is done and over with. Today, it is SOP to charge the "Diagnostic Fee". However any time you do what they recommend, the only thing you will pay is the actual parts and labor to do the repair without the diagnostic fee. If a dealer makes a repair AND charges you that fee, they are ripping you off. I have taken my car in more than once, signed a paper saying I agree to the fee. Then tell them to fix it, and all I owe at the end of the day is the parts and labor. Talk to your service advisor, I am sure they will confirm what I wrote about the Inspection/Diagnostic Fee if you agree to make "needed repairs".

    Best of luck to you, and "Welcome To Prius Chat"!

    Ron (dorunron)
     
    #3 dorunron, Sep 4, 2014
  4. Luceee

    Luceee Junior Member

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    Thanks for your reply, Ron. So I wonder why wouldn't they explain that to me at Toyota? I've been there in person and called on the phone and spent all this time fussing around. I made it very clear that I was not eager to get stuck with the $150 fee. But i am glad that I discovered this chatline. it's reassuring to know that there are helpful people I can connect to who will help me make a wise decision.
     
    #4 Luceee, Sep 4, 2014
  5. Luceee

    Luceee Junior Member

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    OK, thanks, I may try that if it's really simple. I don't want to spend a whole lot more time fussing around but don't want to spend a lot of money either.
     
    #5 Luceee, Sep 4, 2014
  6. M in KC

    M in KC Active Member

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    Lucee, good for you for taking position that you have at your dealer. But I certainly would make them clarify the diagnostic fee waiver if the service is done there. Get it in writing if you feel they are not forthright or suffer from selective memory loss.

    At some point in time you will likely have to spend some money on your PRI. That's just how the cookie crumbles. But its clear you want to make an educated purchase, so horray for you! Go back to your mechanic and get the code(s) or go to auto parts store and ask them to scan your car. All of them in my area scan cars for free. Bottom line get the codes and report. There are some extremely savy owner/mechanics on this forum. I'm confident they will set you on a course for success with the least amount of financial burden. Oh and Welcome to PC as well!
     
    #6 M in KC, Sep 4, 2014
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how many miles on her?
     
    #7 bisco, Sep 4, 2014
  8. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    There are enough reports here of simply cleaning the MAF sensor, which takes a few minutes, and solving the check engine light (if that is indeed what the code refers to). The MAF does not need to be replaced unless something has gotten inside and actually damaged the fine wires. Also, throttle body cleaning has been helpful for a number of posters as well. So check those options rather than replacement.
     
    #8 nh7o, Sep 4, 2014
  9. M in KC

    M in KC Active Member

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    ^ agree.
     
    #9 M in KC, Sep 5, 2014
  10. Luceee

    Luceee Junior Member

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    Ron,

    Well, I just had a conversation with the Lake City service rep. He says it's an individual dealer decision about whether they waive the "Inspection Fee" (which now is $160+) and Lake City doesn't do that. He went on and on to justify why it is necessary. I argued that having a flat fee is unfair if it turns out to be something uncomplicated. He didn't waiver. I guess I'll check around to see if there's another dealer in the area that has a different policy.

    I did obtain the trouble codes from an auto parts store: p0101 and p0171.

    Although there may only be 2 phillips screws, I don't have one that will fit in that tight space.

    Thanks for your consideration.

    Elaine
     
    #10 Luceee, Sep 5, 2014
  11. xpcman

    xpcman Senior Member

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    And one of those screws will fall out and end-up on top of the plastic shield under the car. Then you will need to spend a half hour taking off the shield to get the "lost" screw.
     
    #11 xpcman, Sep 5, 2014
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Why not use the $150 that you would otherwise pay the dealer, to help fund three items:
    1) install a new 12V battery and
    2) buy a suitable screwdriver, and
    3) buy a $10 can of mass air flow sensor cleaner, remove the MAF sensor held on with two screws, and clean it
     
    #12 Patrick Wong, Sep 5, 2014
    ursle likes this.
  13. Luceee

    Luceee Junior Member

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    Patrick,

    You were very right with your advice. When I got in my car this morning to head out for the day, the car wouldn't start. With each attempt it was less responsive until it didn't respond at all. I turned on a dome light which shown very dimly. Today is Sat. and I wanted to get to where I was going (so I moved my gear to my bicycle and rode 5 miles to my destination). I will have to use alternative modes of transportation tomorrow and get a jump from a tow truck on Mon. since my car is in a basement garage and regular length cables won't reach.
     
    #13 Luceee, Sep 7, 2014
  14. alexeft

    alexeft Member

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    Get a new battery friend!!! And clean that MAF sensor!!!
     
    #14 alexeft, Sep 7, 2014
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. It was great that you recognized that dim cabin lighting = near dead 12V battery.
    2. You must be very careful to ensure that the tow truck driver observes the correct battery polarity when hooking up jump cables. If this is reversed, your inverter may be destroyed which will result in a healthy four-digit repair bill (very healthy for the Toyota dealer service dept., very unhealthy for your checking acct.)
    3. A portable jump start device would be better because you would have control over how and when it is used and not have to rely upon a third party who may or may not particularly care about getting the jump polarity correct. For example, this is the device I bought for my daughter's use.
     
    #15 Patrick Wong, Sep 7, 2014
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