Check Hybrid System code POA80

Long posts are great for troubleshooting, helps narrow things down

Code points to troubleshoot HV batt as you found. After replacing a few cells already and things were fine for a while, then other cells went bad, sounds like the other packs are going bad also but slowly, and replace others. Here we call it the game of wack o mole; I’ll let you ponder that one. Check if the buss bars needs deoxiding, and torqued down correctly. After that, rebalance with grid charger or get an entire different HV battery.

 

This is not a statement that makes any sense. There is no "gas engine" and "hybrid engine". There is a single gas engine yes. But it is coupled to the wheels via 2 MG's (Motor Generators, i.e. electric motors). It all works as one unit. It is not possible for the gas engine to ever provide any direct motive energy to the wheels of the vehicle. The best the gas engine can do is generate electricity via MG1 and feed it to the inverter to be used by MG2 to spin the wheels.

All that means is that the car was not using the capacity in the battery pack, or the battery pack had no capacity. The first scenario can be had when the battery is really hot or when the inverter is really hot. The second can happen for lots of reasons, the biggest being age.

Where did you take it take replaced 3 battery modules out of your 28 module pack? How long were you there for service? If you say less than a day, then the repair was crap. You can't just jimmy in 3 random modules, it doesn't work that way.

Not surprising. Not only are you playing whack-a-mole, but your previous "repair" was the absolute bare minimum needed to get on the road and lasting 2 weeks is pretty good.

Your hybrid battery is dead. End of story. There is nothing to diagnose. The "repair" you had the shop do was terrible. For any type of module replacement to work, you need to find modules that are close in capacity, internal resistance, etc to the ones already in the car. You have 28 modules in there that were paired from the factory by the fact that they were made at the same time and put into service at the same time. 3 died. Now you need to find 3 modules that have "seen what your modules have seen" so that they are in a very similar state of health. This is not hard, but it is like looking for 3 needles in a haystack. If your haystack consists of an alley mechanic with 30 modules on the shelf, the likelyhood of finding 3 exact replacement modules is nearly zero. Places that do this for a living with literally tens of thousands of modules sitting around are the only way for this to work. And even then you're looking at a temporary repair because most of the donors are so old now.

You have a couple options:

(1) Continue playing whack-a-mole. You should get a week or more out of each swap. Each swap will require your vehicle to be down for 2-4 hours plus the time of you going there and back, etc. If you value your time at $0/hr, or have nothing better to do, then why not.

(2) Buy a new battery. Your options are (a) the dealership or (b) NewPriusBatteries.com.

(3) Junk the car

 

get tech stream and a subscription to the service manual

 

Sorry you feel that way.

But to be clear, when you replace or even disconnect the 12v battery, the codes get cleared. Meaning if you had an issue the car masks it now.

As I've said many times after you get your first battery replacement indicator you're good to drive usually for a few more months or even a year. You've been warned. Most likely the code will popup again in the future. Every subsequent time it pops up you'll have less and less time to when it comes back.

I would start budgeting for a new battery now so that later this year when it throws codes again, you will be in a good place to replace it. If you wait until it's an emergency you'll be paying emergency prices. If you don't want a new battery use these few months to trade the car in.

 

Dang, how did I miss that?

 

Wait, I know. It was all the 12v replacents in the o/p.
Yeah, that’s it.

 

The gophers are taking longer to surface on this next round.

 

Take a look at the links in his signature, he might be your hybrid battery saviour.

 

But I want to see the OP to clear the final stage of wack o mole, it's quite the game from what I heard.

 

I have a 2010 prius the motor blew up so I replaced the motor, when I picked up the mechanic told me that he couldn't get the "check hybrid system" message off but that the car was running "fine" so I took it home, unplugged the negative on the 12 V battery for a few mins and the message went away for a bit and it came back, what puzzle me is that there is no "check engine" on it so obviously my OBD II doesn't read any codes, the car seems to run normal, it switches from electric to gas normally, but doesn't let me switch from power to ev mode, any ideas?

 

Need to read the codes. Dealership can do it.

 

UPDATE!! Took it to the Dealer and they found out that part of the hybrid was disconnected... Ridiculous. I'll have a talk with my mechanic today, thanks!

 

Good that it was something simple. Don't go to hard on the mechanic(s); it is easy as pie to miss something. Also, seems strange that the car would be ok for extended time after they worked on it, and then something goes off. Could also be related to your battery install??

Hard to say what that could be. Any paperwork with more info?

 

I'm having a similar problem. Can you tell me what part of the hybrid was disconnected?