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Check hybrid system warning after manifold cleaning

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by thomassurdi, Mar 17, 2018.

  1. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    Long story, but I’ll try to be consice. I decided to take my intake manifold apart for a cleaning today. I removed the air box, throttle body, EGR pipe and manifold, cleaned everything and put them back together. I was about to change the spark plugs since the wiper assembly was already off but I realized I had the wrong size socket. I figured since the engine was all put together I’d be able to drive down the street to the store to get the socket. I get a few hundred feet and the car starts going haywire, making a loud knocking noise, and giving me check hybrid system and check PCS warnings, plus a check engine light. so I inch it back to my driveway. After inspection I find that I didn’t replace the MAF sensor plug, so I plugged that in and reinstalled the wipers thinking it should solve my problem. Welp, I start the car and it’s still idling rough, like the air box wants to shake off the car. I leave it alone for a few and the assuming maybe there is still some brake cleaner or crud that needs to burn off I take the car around the block and it’s actually driving and accelerating ok bit idlif rough, however the warnings were suddenly gone. I then decided to take the car out a third time and it’s running ok after three trips around the block, then suddenly the orange triangle comes on and I’m getting a check hybrid system warning, and a check PCS warnings again. I make it almost back to my driveway with the nose pointing up the driveway but the body of body of the car stuck embarrassingly out in the street. The car is now dead. I can’t put it in gear or neutral.

    My main questions are

    A. Could something to do with not having the MAF and the wiper harness plugged in have somehow shorted out the traction orn12V battery or both?

    B. Could the 12v battery be bad even though the dome and dahs light do come on or can I fuel that out?

    C. Even if I order and successfully install a new traction battery would it be possible that whatever happened to my old one could happen to the new one also?

    D. What could have caused this in the first place?

    Any timely responses would be greatly welcomed as I use my car for work.
     
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  2. JimboPalmer

    JimboPalmer Tsar of all the Rushers

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    "I decided to take my intake manifold apart for a cleaning today."
    We get many people who feel they have to 'do something' to their cars.
    Toyota has a maintenance schedule, I am willing to bet this was not on it.
    There is always going to be fluid in the intake manifold of an Atkinson cycle engine, fixing something that is not broke is a bad plan.
     
  3. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    Ok, thanks for the response but that doesn’t help me with my problem or answer any of my questions. If could go back in time I would leave it alone, but what’s done Is done. Any advice moving forward?
     
  4. Danny3xd

    Danny3xd Active Member

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    Man, Thomas. Sorry to hear this. I'm sure someone will be of more help than I. The on again, off again warning lights is perplexing.

    Just what I would do. (and I am a bit of a gambler and not a professional wrench) wait until more knowledgeable folks lend a hand. But I would retrace everything. Absolutely everything to make sure it's right and tight. Then I would disconnect the 12-volt battery for at least 30 seconds. (while waiting, say hey and chat with the above. Not kidding. If anything, it helps me slow down and do mean I just chat)

    Reconnect battery. See if codes are gone.

    I had changed spark plugs on my '10. When she lit off, shook like a dead cylinder for less than a minute and triggered the check engine lite. So I did the above, in the rear by disconnecting the positive lead. (not sure if neg. would have been better but hey)

    Code cleared and worked fine since.

    Would be awesome if ya could clear and be all well. But I only had a momentary and only check engine. So do not know.

    Are you near another member with a techstream? That would be my second move.

    But again, I am not as well versed as many here.

    And to others, if my approach is for some reason ill-advised. Ya ain't gonna hurt my feelings saying so.

    Hoping for the best!
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah try battery disconnect.

    You're complicating responses, having started a second thread on same subject, but oh well.
     
  6. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    Thank you for trying to help, Danny. I did disconnect the battery, but there doesn’t seem to be enough juice to start the car let alone clear any codes. I’m hoping that In trying to drive with the wiper harness not plugged in and the MAF sensor unplugged as well maybe it caused a drain on the battery and just killed an already teetering 12v. Not sure when the battery wasn’t last replaced since I bought the car used. Maybe it’s been going bad for a while was this was the last straw. The hatch opens and the headlights are strong and everything with the batterry plugged in, so Idk, but perhaps it’s just too low to start the car. At this point I’d be really happy with a $300 fix. I hope it’s doesn’t have anything to do with the traction battery and that “check hybrid system” doesn’t necessarily pertain to the hybrid battery.

    I wish I knew someone with the code reader. That would make life a lot easier right now.

    For the life of me I can’t think of any good reason for it to be acting that way with the rough idling. The dash Is lit up like a Christmas tree and the car will not go into ready mode, so I can’t even push it to a less embarrassing resting place than two wheels in the driveway and the hind end in the road. I guess my next step is to bring the battery down to discount auto parts in a few hours and have them test it. If it’s not the HV battery then I guess I’ll have to have it towed to a shop to get the code read.
     
  7. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    Sorry for confusing the responses. We can move the conversation here.

    To answer your questions from the other thread, The check PCS warning came on the same time as the check hybrid warning. Then I got the red steering wheel and I barely made it back to my driveway. Then the car wouldn’t start or move at all.

    Yes I’m quite certain I reconnected the ignition coils. I never got The spark plugs out.
     
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  8. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    This could have been in my imagination, but I think the rough idling was slowly getting better the more I drove but then i got the orange triangle suddenly and soon after the battery died.
     
  9. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I don't know what to say about the original cause. You will need to read the codes to find out what's wrong. But the part I quoted above got me wondering:

    Did you happen to observe the HV battery state of charge indicator as you were driving and all seemed well? And how was the power response? It almost seems like it was in EV only and stayed that way, like the engine wasn't even running, and ran the HV battery all the way down. I've heard mention of something like that when people run out of gas and keep going. I've also have heard of something like that when people keep trying to start a Prius when the engine won't run.

    My recommendation is to take the 12V battery and have it tested, make sure you have a FULLY CHARGED 12V in place, and then read the trouble codes so you know where to start.
     
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  10. Danny3xd

    Danny3xd Active Member

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  11. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    The traction battery was actually at or near fully charged as I was driving. I remember trying to run it down so that the engine would come on so I could listen to it as the whole point of driving was to see if the rough idling would smooth itself out.

    The power response was actually good. Got into the power bar just fine. Only tried once or twice. That’s probably what charged the battery. It accelerated fine. I could only really notice the rough idle at stop or slow speeds when the engine kicked on. But the engine definitely started when I first pulled out and kicking on once or twice while driving.
     
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  12. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Thanks for the added info. That's interesting! And mysterious. Please let us know when you get the codes read by a Prius capable code reader.
     
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  13. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    I will. Thank you for trying to help. i wish it wasn’t so mysterious tbh lol. This car has always driven like a dream, but I figured I could get some better gas mileage and extend the life with a little cleaning and basic maintainance so it's been quite upsetting to have it to crap out like this when I was expecting better performance, not none at all! Hopefully my problems will help someone’s else in the future.
     
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  14. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Some additional questions:
    • Did you reassemble the windshield wiper cowling and connect that back up?
    • Ensured all electrical connections are solidly clipped into place?
    • Did the car “ready” message display, or can you get that to display now?

    If you did a hard reset on the system and the dash lights are returning, something is still not right;).

    I’d double check the reassembly work for electrical connectivity and put everything back the way it was prior to the cleaning attempt. Alternately you could just lay the wipers on the block but definitely get all electrical connections attached sonthe Prius doesn’t have a reason to not think everything is the way it should be.

    If the car gets to “ready” the 12 volt is not at risk as the hv battery will now charge the 12 volt and the 12 volt had enough voltage to get all the computers “ready”.

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
  15. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    All the connectors should be in place the way they were before the cleaning. I’m certain everything is put back just how it was.

    I just took the battery to get tested at discount auto parts and the readout said to replace it because it has a weak draw even though it read 12.8 v. I got the new battery and I’m going to install it now and cross my fingers that the car gones into ready mode with no problems. If anything it was probably time for that to be replaced anyways. I’ll let you know how it’s goes.
     
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  16. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    If you were curious on how to read the date code on a Yuasa battery (if it was the original:

    87829373-2DF4-4B75-8CFD-AFF59C20D178.jpeg

    Date code for the original 12 volt battery on our 2010 removed from service 1/2/18 is 06/17/09:).

    When the battery was in the back of the Prius, the fastener blocks the date code stamp, but once removed, you can see it;).

    The replacement battery bought at auto zone has a much easier date code reader (sticker on the side that says 12/17):

    71641CCB-F92B-4CD7-89F8-EF163E076328.jpeg 62A4E573-E140-482D-958F-2696780B60EC.jpeg

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
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  17. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    OK so here she where I’m at at.

    The new battery gave it enough juice to allow me to pull into my driveway, so it went into ready mode. ...briefly. Soon after I pulled up the car shut off with a grumpy shake, the red triangle came on, and so did the check hybrid system warning. The car isn’t no longer shaking the whole time it’s idling. Just rough start up and shit off. I started the car up again, again it went into ready mode, and after a few seconds shut off with the orange triangle and the warning. Is there some kind of hard reset I should try?

    I guess my next step is to take the manifold apart again and retrace my steps. I’ve looked hard and long to make sure everything was plugged in right and I still content that everything is as it should be. I went back and gave an extra push on the coil plugs and sensor plugs. Eveything seems tight.

    I’m starting to wonder if something may have in fact happened to my hybrid battery.

    This might be a good time to invest in a code reader which should be cheaper than having it towed to a shop. I’m going to have to find out what those codes are if I’m ever gonna get to the bottom of this. Any suggestions for an affordable one?
     
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  18. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    Btw the old one looks like an aftermarket battery. The only marking I saw was a sticker that said L17
     
  19. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    The best value code reader that you can get is a Mini vci J2534 cord and pair it with an old laptop. If you have the laptop, this setup is less than $25 :).

    But this will take some time to arrive and use:(.

    Some additional questions:
    • Are you still getting the check hybrid system and check PCS system messages?
    • Has your Prius ever been in an accident?
    • Did you reconnect the MAP sensor on the top of the throttle body?
    • Did you end up pulling the coils off of the spark plugs?
    • How many miles on your Prius?
    Keep us posted (y).
     
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  20. thomassurdi

    thomassurdi Member

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    Yes I’m still getting those warnings

    No this car has not been in an accident

    Yes I reconnected the MAP sensor. The kind of big long one on top right?

    Yes I pulled the coils out at one point.

    The Prius has around 145,000 miles. 3rd gen. 2010.

    Would this code reader do? It could be here tomorrow. I guess it’s a Generic techstream.
     

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