Check hybrid system..

You floored the pedal all the way down, and the "check hybrid system" came on?

The hybrid system has an RPM limit, I think, where you can't exceed. That should not be responsible for the check light coming on the dash.

You should know that at the point when you floored the pedal so harsh like that, expect a huge discharge from the HV battery pack, because on heavy acceleration, and sudden braking, the HV battery is heavily tasked.

Get the car scanned, with a hybrid capable scantool (hope the one you're ordering tomorrow would do)?

If there's a check hybrid system, my guess would be that some of the modules in the HV battery are losing their ability to hold a charge already.

It might be that you could replace some of the modules with tested ones that are being sold by some PC members here.



Dxta

 

welcome!
check your battery cooling fan. how many miles on her?

 

Likely the inverter will need to be replaced under warranty.

 

Agree with FrankB, classic inverter IPM failure scenario. You can verify codes on your own but the car will have to go to a dealer for the warranty repair. If the scanner you ordered doesn't show any "P0A" codes you will know it likely is not a hybrid aware scanner. P0A94, P324E, P3004, and/or P0A1A is what you want to see to score the free repair.

https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2015/10/96076_Warranty_Enhancement_Notification_ZE3.pdf

Whoops, you posted the salvage tidbit while I was typing my reply. You still might pursue Toyota on the warranty as this is a major safety issue failure. Otherwise, I'd source an entire inverter from a salvage Prius, entire inverter swap being a simple repair and the salvage units are relatively cheap.

 

If you're keeping it, then investing in a good OBD reader is highly suggested but the best method involves using a laptop/techstream software so the costs can be fairly high. Houston has independent hybrid specialists who should be able to read it for less $$$ than a dealer. One specialist told me he's seeing more gen 3 battery failures here in Texas but I'd suspect the inverter first, battery second.

I believe safety related issues like airbags will still be honored on a salvage titled car but factory warranties and/or extensions are null and void. Hopefully this isn't a hurricane harvey flood car either.

 

P0452 is in the evap system.

Gas cap is on and locked? And the gas cap is in good condition? Had the tank ever been overfilled?

Keep us posted.

 

Depends on what’s wrong with the evap system.

Simplest thing to start at is the gas cap and check to make sure it is locked and in good condition.

After that it could be damage to the filler neck, the canister, etc.

But I’d start with the gas cap and see if recently there was an overfill.

 

You can check the fuse box and see if there is something blown. On the cover of the fuse box, it will tell you what fuse it is.

If it is blown, then there is the quandry: replace the fuse and see if it blows again, or investigate the cause prior to replacement.

I am the curious type, so if I found a blown fuse, then could identify the fuse the system is associated with, I’d do some research as to what might cause the fuse to blow before replacing it.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Buy the techstream software and cable from eBay for about $35

 

you have a great hybrid shop in houston hybrids, or hometown hybrids, they are a member here.
and see post #17 if you are going to diy.

 

mini VCI or VXDIAG VCX Nano for Techstream. These are both Chinese hack, Toyota Techstream dongles that relay data from the car's obd port to your own laptop. They seem to install easier on a 32-bit operating system but 64-bit is doable if you are computer gifted. You're looking at ~$30-$100 initial investment not counting the laptop and depending on which one you choose. Otherwise, a general obd2 scan tool can be used SO LONG AS it's verified Toyota hybrid capable. I'm guessing by your EVAP code that the tool you're using is not capable of retrieving hybrid codes. The current EVAP code is very unlikely the reason your car shut down and displayed the "check hybrid" msg., but anything is possible.

If the issue is as I suspect, you DO have a short but it's not in the fuse box. It's in a capacitor pack within the inverter. But you are going to need the correct code(s) to verify or to get a clearer idea of where the real problem lies.

The vagueness of "taking it to a shop" is concerning to me. The shop needs to be hybrid capable and reputable as such, imo. It's a case where ponying for a dealer diagnostic fee isn't a bad idea. Most dealers can at least provide an accurate list of codes, as using the proper Techstream diagnostic software makes it pretty hard to screw up. bisco's suggestion of an independent hybrid shop sounds like a good way to go if you're dealer wary.