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Cleaned corrosion from buss bars now getting P3000 code

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Maria Camille, Nov 27, 2023.

  1. Maria Camille

    Maria Camille Junior Member

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    I decided to clean the bus bars on my 2008, Prius. I used vinegar and sand paper. There was a lot of corrosion. I got them all put back on and the bolts on and now I am getting a P3000 code after driving 15 or so miles. I am not getting any other codes. However, my fan did start blowing harder and there was air coming out of the holes on top of the battery. The car still drives. When I tested the voltage on the battery cells they were all consistent at 16v in the middle with the two ends being 15v and 14v. The car is at 207k on the original battery. What are my next steps?
     
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    All the modules should be very similar in voltage, since you have 16v, 15v and even 14v voltage, you have some failed modules. I believe the Prius will tolerate a voltage difference of .3v, anything higher than that, you're just waiting for a failure to happen and the car to throw a code.

    Next step is to buy a new battery or replace the failed modules. Ideally you would need to balance the entire pack so the modules are similar in voltage reading and capacity.
     
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You can buy a balanced rack already squeezed up ready to drop on your tray on eBay and various and sundry places 650 or so for the generation too anyway which would cover the three. That might be something you ought to look into so what you're dropping into your case is balanced ready to rock and roll put up your bus bars that are clean and nuts spray all that stuff or whatever prep work you do and let it rip I just did this to the $700 '07 car we bought Raleigh North Carolina it's running like a top getting 51 miles to the gallon sometimes. It is worth it if your battery is failing and all of that sort of thing and you don't want to spend the 14-16 whatever it is hundred now on a new one.
     
  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    $25 each for used modules that are balanced and ready? You probably won't need ebay for that @TMR-JWAP
     
  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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  6. Maria Camille

    Maria Camille Junior Member

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    This is good information, thankyou. Dr Prius reads differently than multimeter. I could have made a mistake or had a low battery. I will upload a photo. IMG_8558.png
     
  7. Kiwi7910

    Kiwi7910 Junior Member

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    When replacing the busbars did you use a torque wrench on the nuts? The correct torque is 48 in-lbs (5Nm)
    Also check the 14 block voltage sensor wires for damage
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Just in case, note the “in” above: it’s for “inch”, basically a lever arm 1/12 of a “foot” pound. In a nutshell: the torque in foot-pounds (or pound-foot for sticklers?) would be 4 (48/12).
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Funny, I most often seem to see people write newton·meter (force before length) but foot·pound (length before force).

    But multiplication is commutative, so not really much to stickle about. A torque is a force times a lever length, whatever the order.
     
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  10. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    A number of years ago, McDonald's tried to standardize their "breakfast sandwich nomenclature". For awhile, the clerks would try to "correct" my order by calling a particular sandwich - an "Egg Mcmuffin with sausage". My response was "it's been a sausage Mcmuffin with egg for much longer than you'be been alive". Eventually they stopped doing that

    By definition, pound-feet or pound-inches is correct, but I've had foot-pounds and inch -pounds in my head for so long that it ain't going to change.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  11. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Why did you go after the busbars? Were you having problems before?

    If those blocks have voltages that are lower than the others on accel (by around 1.0-1.5V) but go higher than the others on decel, that would point to failed battery modules.

    There's many, many posts in the forums about battery "repairs". Most money and most reliable is a new HV pack (from Toyota). Next would be to find a (good) complete NiMH pack from a wrecking yard.

    After that are various levels of "refurbished" packs. Some buy packs from companies or shops that "do" something to used modules that hopefully results in a pack that lasts a few years.

    Others go DIY, and get used modules. Some "just" replace them (and cross their fingers). Some replace and use "grid chargers" to discharge - charge cycle the entire pack at once. Others replace and use hobby RC chargers to cycle modules individually.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  12. Maria Camille

    Maria Camille Junior Member

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    Thank you. I bought a digital torque meter in the wrong size, but I will do this.
     
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  13. Maria Camille

    Maria Camille Junior Member

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    i cleaned them in hopes of extending it’s life. There were no problems. I checked the fan, and by the 12v battery. I found corrosion on the fan connector as well as moisture by the 12v, though I have sealed the upper hatch before, it obviously wasn’t effective.
     

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  14. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    How did you clean off the corrosion on the fan connector? Some would replace the female pinned connector. Others might try some electronics contact cleaner like Deoxit D5.

    Amazon.com: Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. : Automotive

    Toyota Prius P3000: Check This Before Replacing Your HV Battery | Torque News
     
  15. Maria Camille

    Maria Camille Junior Member

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    Yes I did order some de ox it. Thank you. I also sprayed some cleaner on it while I am awaiting the de ox it to arrive in the mail.
     
  16. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    When I perform a HV battery job for a customer, I typically offer to just cut the connector out of the circuit and splice/heat shrink the wires together, at no charge, just to ensure no future problems. There's really no reason that connector ever needs to be handled.
     
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  17. Maria Camille

    Maria Camille Junior Member

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    That's cool. Mine wasn't very corroded, but I plan on cleaning it more and sealing up the car better with some flex seal. I think I have to replace the battery. I may have led it to it's premature death, but I have tried to test it with DR Prius app and the tests were unable to be completed at any point which leads me to believe it was on it's way out. However, I am a DIYer who is brand new to working on my car.
     
  18. Maria Camille

    Maria Camille Junior Member

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    I did check the torque and fired her back up, but I am still getting lights P3000 (no other codes) and the voltages are appearing with a higher differential on the Prius app now as well as when I measured them at rest. At least one cell is more than 0.3 different and showing 1v lower on DR. Prius now.
     
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  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Not good. :(
     
  20. Maria Camille

    Maria Camille Junior Member

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    Yes. I probably ushered her onto her death by fussing with the bus bars. Are there good videos on how to test wires in the harness or can a new harness be purchased when I get a new OEM battery?