Clearcoating headlights

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by AK18, Sep 4, 2016.

  1. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    Wait is that "more than" as in "close to," or as in "much more than"? If the former, where do I find these $20 assemblies?
     
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  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Much more than;).

    I was making the cost justification point that for $20 ($10 a kit) and about 2 hours of my time I can have the housings “good enough” on our 2010 Prius. Definitely better than a lot of the cars that pass me on the freeway. New ones are much more (I think upwards of $200):eek:.

    Could I argue my time is worth more than the $400 I would spend on new housings as time is the one resource that is finite? Sure. But I also want to retire early and right now I can afford an hour or two every other year to clean the lenses:).

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
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  3. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    200$ for a pair isn’t too bad. I don’t think it’ll ever go down less than that unless it’s a 20 year old car.
     
  4. RMB

    RMB Senior Member

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    While we are at this topic, my understanding is headlight surface has a layer of clear coat just like the painted surface of a car. Can we use good quality wax as "preventative maintenance:whistle:" on headlights just as we wash and wax to keep the car paint shiny? $20 wax to keep the whole car shiny (including headlight surface) is even better than $10 kit and 2 hours of muscle every 2 years LOL

    My 2014 will be 5 years old next month and started having cataracts on the driver side last year, right side is still pretty clean and clear, so anything to keep it looking and working at its best would be great!
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Not sure why, but there's this on page 406 of Owner's Manual:

    upload_2019-2-12_11-47-41.png

    Maybe concerns about abrasives??
     
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  6. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    Regarding the point about wax, maybe something to do with wax possibly reflecting/refracting the light? I wouldn't really think that'd be an issue though
     
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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Still, when I see the word "damage" I figure better safe than sorry. IIRC people here have waxed, no problems. Maybe if they're already hazed it's worth trying.
     
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  8. SB6

    SB6 Member

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    Ah yeah, my brain kinda glossed over the "damaged" part... But yeah I agree, if your headlights are already hazy, I don't see how applying wax after restoring can hurt
     
  9. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Some do a spray clear coat as an attempt to seal the treatment ;).

    Another thing to try (y).
     
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  10. Absalom

    Absalom Junior Member

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    I tried Rustoleum 2x clear in the past on headlights. Lasted about 11 months before I was back to square one. Certainly wasn't worth all the prep.

    This time, I did 1000, 1400, 2000, PlastX, and then 2 coats of FinalKare 1000P. I'll report back if it outlasts the Rustoleum. Certainly was tons easier though!
     
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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Which method was easier?
     
  12. Absalom

    Absalom Junior Member

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    Oh definitely the FinalKare. No regard for overspray, application technique, etc.
     
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  13. 04priusnow

    04priusnow Active Member

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    I used the Meguiar's restore kit. Came with UV resistant clear coat and compound with pads. worked great. It's been about a year and still looks good.


    PH-1 ?
     
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  14. orenji

    orenji Senior Member

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    3M makes a head light cleaner and polish. Works great, I just do it every few washes by hand and the lights look new.
     
  15. Lightning Racer

    Lightning Racer Active Member

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    Don't do the clear coat paint method. I tried the Rustoleum 2x, probably following a ChrisFix video. Unless you are well practiced painting with spray cans, you will probably get large drips in the clear coat. That happened to me on both sides, even with some practice between sides, hoping to do it better on the second side. Sanding the drips and clear coat off after that took three times longer than the initial sanding prep, so it was a huge waste of time. Add to that, reports from here and Scotty Kilmer, that Rustoleum 2x doesn't last a year, and that's something I'm never doing again. I recommend any of the commercial restore kits. I used the Sylvania kit, and it worked fine. Still looked perfectly clear after 3 years, though with a mostly garaged car.
     
    #35 Lightning Racer, Mar 3, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
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