Combo meter.....my head hurts

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Wrecit, May 15, 2021.

  1. Wrecit

    Wrecit Junior Member

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    Ok got the second gen combo meter blues. Have done youtube and read no less than 10,000 threads here. I know what the issue is and how to fix it now but the question now is what would be the best capacitor to replace the offending bad guy. Can someone give me a link to the easiest 220 to install.

    Have done board soldering before but really dont "know" electronics parts just am really good at following idiot proof instructions.
     
  2. Samuel Williams Jr

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    You need a bit more info than 220 but I think what you want is a, surface mounted 220uf 16v capacitor.

    220 UF 16V ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR, SURFACE-MOUNT | All Electronics Corp.

    I looked here


    and here.


    And looking at the work done, it look's like the axial type would be easier to mount then the surface mount. You'd have a bit more room to work with the axial type, you could cut the leg's down to length if need be or just push it thru and solder and cut off the extra length from the other side. And these Cap's are all marked plus or minus.

    Axial Cap
    LATTECH 220uF 16V 6.3X7 +/-20% -40-+105℃ 50 PCS Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor


    I have not done this myself, just trying to help out with the part, Good Luck. :)
     
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  3. Samuel Williams Jr

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    Hmm I can't post the Amazon link for the last one? But that is one place to get it.
     
  4. Wrecit

    Wrecit Junior Member

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    After reading over the threads here I left out some info on purpose to weed out some false leads. Was looking at the lattech you tried to post but was not 100% positive about using it and wanted some other input. I hate surface mount soldering so was hoping to hear "leg type" would be ok lol
     
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  5. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    Axial, or radial lead? I'm not getting the whole video to play for me right now, but ...

    In that first video, he mounts a "radial-lead" cap, not an "axial-lead" cap:
    upload_2021-5-15_22-58-48.png

    upload_2021-5-15_23-0-41.png


    In the second video, he mechanically twists the part off, using just metal fatigue to break the leads off the board, without any heat to de-solder the part. That is not a good idea, I've seen too many solder pads broken off the board, leaving insufficient metal exposed to solder the new part.
     
    #5 fuzzy1, May 16, 2021
    Last edited: May 16, 2021
  6. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Mouser.com
    Newark.com
    eBay
     
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  7. Samuel Williams Jr

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    "radial-lead" cap, yes you are correct Sir, Thank You for the clarification. :)

    So trying again how about this one.
    4 NEW NICHICON 220UF/16V 220 MFD 16 V RADIAL ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR CAP 105* USA | eBay
     
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  8. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    yep.

    Nichi's are the best. Mouser sells a Nichi Low ESR series too. Normally I would just use a radial cap and bend the legs a little.
     
    #8 edthefox5, May 16, 2021
    Last edited: May 16, 2021
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  9. Samuel Williams Jr

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    Oh other input is definitely good! And we got help now so we'll track that part down. :)

    And I'd not wanna try a surface mount in that space either. And I don't think I saw anyone say any thing about a solder sucker, I use one and the wick myself. To remove parts. But now we know you don't have to replace it with a surface mount cap, just have to have the right value for the Radial, cap. It's progress. :)
     
  10. Wrecit

    Wrecit Junior Member

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    I ordered to amazon ones (anyone needs one let me know and I will pay for the stamp since I am getting 20 lol)
     
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