Covid Virus got to my healthy prius - Red Triangle of Death

Easyrider07 · May 16, 2020

I have a 2007 prius with 170k miles. Before covid lockdown I'd been driving 50 miles each day without any issue. In the past 2 months I've been working from home and hadn't driven my prius. As I started my car the master warning light, yellow brake system warning light, check engine light and hybrid system warning light came on. The car drove fine but the hybrid battery was charging and draining fast on my screen.

I did not have the techstream to diagnose. I had replaced the 12V battery (Autocraft Platinum S34B20R) in January and since then I've run into an issue with display not showing any information on couple of times. My first guess was it might be the 12V battery so i disconnected and charged it overnight. Connected back and all the warnings were gone and I was able to drive 2-3 times (10-15 miles) before all the warning lights are back with addition of ABS Warning, slip indicator and brake light.

I bought the techstream and ran the health checkup and its given me the following error codes - P3000, P0A80, C1241, B1421, B1200, B1248, B1271. Can someone please advise if its the hybrid battery pack or something else. Thanks!

bisco · May 16, 2020

welcome!
classic bad hybrid battery, sorry to say

ChapmanF · May 16, 2020

P0A80 is the traction battery.

P3000 is because there's a P0A80. Not an issue of its own.

B1421 is because it wasn't sunny where the codes were read. Not an issue.

C1241 is the brake ECU saying it received inadequate power at some point. (In the freeze frame, there is an INF code that will indicate one of four possibilities for the exact situation detected.)

The remaining codes are all communication issues (body ECU unhappy it couldn't talk to gateway ECU, MFD and gateway ECU unhappy, combination meter and gateway ECU unhappy).

The C1241 and the comm codes could all be plausibly connected to the 12 volt battery you thought needed charging. Because of that (and because they're written down here, so no problem history will be lost), it wouldn't be unreasonable to just clear them and see if they come back. Heck, see if the P0A80 comes back, too; it'll get cleared if you do an overall code clear anyway.

There's another guy on the forum whose hobby horse is insisting that you should never even have read any codes if there was any remote possibility the 12 volt battery needed charging. But you've seen how this goes; it ain't hard to read codes, and if what you get include codes that would be plausible in a low-power situation and you already suspected one, then sure, you can make an informed decision about maybe clearing them once to see what comes back.

Easyrider07 · May 16, 2020

Thanks CF. Could the C1241 be related to short circuit (Noticed a small spark) as I was removing the negative cable of 12V battery attached to the chasis? My bad in not doing it properly.

Also if I go ahead clear the codes is it safe to drive the vehicle for an extended period of time (or till error codes come back). I'm just wondering if the car sitting still in the garage has led to this problem in the first place. And if driving it more is going to help remedy this situation. When do i absolutely need to replace the hybrid battery as at present I'm not in a position to spend ~3k on a new one.

ChapmanF said: ↑

P0A80 is the traction battery.

P3000 is because there's a P0A80. Not an issue of its own.

B1421 is because it wasn't sunny where the codes were read. Not an issue.

C1241 is the brake ECU saying it received inadequate power at some point. (In the freeze frame, there is an INF code that will indicate one of four possibilities for the exact situation detected.)

The remaining codes are all communication issues (body ECU unhappy it couldn't talk to gateway ECU, MFD and gateway ECU unhappy, combination meter and gateway ECU unhappy).

The C1241 and the comm codes could all be plausibly connected to the 12 volt battery you thought needed charging. Because of that (and because they're written down here, so no problem history will be lost), it wouldn't be unreasonable to just clear them and see if they come back. Heck, see if the P0A80 comes back, too; it'll get cleared if you do an overall code clear anyway.

There's another guy on the forum whose hobby horse is insisting that you should never even have read any codes if there was any remote possibility the 12 volt battery needed charging. But you've seen how this goes; it ain't hard to read codes, and if what you get include codes that would be plausible in a low-power situation and you already suspected one, then sure, you can make an informed decision about maybe clearing them once to see what comes back.
Click to expand...

ChapmanF · May 17, 2020

I don't think anyone has come up with hard-and-fast rules for how long you have after a P0A80 before dealing with the traction battery. The car tries to give you an early warning, so you've got some time. There may come a time when it just says "thus far and no farther", but that may be a way off. Quite possibly you will just get more frequent and annoying warnings, and the point where you've had it with them is the point where you'll do the battery.

A small spark when disconnecting/reconnecting the 12 volt battery is not unexpected, and doesn't mean you did anything wrong or shorted anything. (If you short an automotive battery, you get a non-small spark. Don't try to see what I mean, or wear face protection, no rings, and be in an open area, if you must, with someone a ways off to hold your beer.)

Letting the car sit for long periods can lead to problems. As far as keeping up the battery charges, you don't even technically have to drive anywhere; just getting in the car, making it READY, waiting for the engine to run and then stop on its own, and maybe waiting for the next break in your favorite radio program, is enough.

To keep the brakes from sticking and the tires from flat-spotting requires actual motion, around the block or so, anyway.

Easyrider07 · May 19, 2020

Thanks for your detailed response. I looked up on C1241 and it says low battery positive voltage or abnormally high battery positive voltage. Any insights as to the root cause of this problem?

For the battery pack could i change the battery pack 8 (with lowest voltage) or do i need to discharge and balance each pack for addressing the P0A80?

Appreciate all the help on this forum.

Easyrider07 · May 23, 2020

So I was debating whether to change the battery pack bought over ebay, get a refurbished 3rd party battery or head to the dealership to spend more than what my car is worth. Fortunately I came across Matt from Texas Hybrid Battery and I could not have asked for a better outcome. He is a perfectionist when it comes to any prius related repair. I was able to get a new toyota hybrid battery with a better warranty in half the dealership price. But more importantly I am happy to have met Matt and can reach out to him on any future repair on my prius. Solid 5 star experience!

Covid Virus got to my healthy prius - Red Triangle of Death

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Close up! What to do-2007 Abandoned during Covid-Help Pimping Paint Job

Techstream readings, healthy vs. sick A/C

Keeping hybrid traction battery healthy

Does this look like a healthy battery?

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Covid Virus got to my healthy prius - Red Triangle of Death

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