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Dealer says he can't get diagnostic codes...

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by PugDogs, Jan 5, 2010.

  1. PugDogs

    PugDogs Junior Member

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    ... until he replaces my 12-volt battery. He got codes that seem to have little to do with my problem, and the service department says they can't get any others 'till there's a good 12-volt in the car. Does that seem right ?

    I'll explain:

    I park my 2002 Prius (~71,000 miles) on the street, and it's cold here in the winter. Just before leaving for a 3-week vacation, I had to jump the 12-volt. This is the Miata battery I've had in it for 4 years. We arranged to have a neighbor drive it a few times (she says she got to it once per week) while we were gone.

    She told us she had to jump the battery to drop it at the airport parking lot for us. When she did so it ran, but gave her a warning light. She was worried about that, so met us at the airport several hours later when our flight came in. Sure enough, we had to jump it. But it ran fine, with no warning lights.

    The next morning, I had to jump it again, but the gas engine only ran a few seconds before it shut off and gave me a warning on the display screen that said "Problem". (Three icons on the screen, and the one on the right that the manual calls something like the 'hybrid system' icon was highlighted.)

    That was a first for me, so I shut off the car and tried again with the same result. The car would move via the electric propulsion system, but even flooring the pedal wouldn't get the gas engine to start back up. I called a tow truck, and several hours later when he showed up, he wanted me to reposition the Prius for better towing. I had him jump the battery so I could move the car on the electric system and... it ran like a top. I drove to the dealership with the car running as normal.

    The dealer says they can't get the gas engine to turn over for more than a few seconds. The guy says they got codes C 0200 and C 0205 (right front and left front wheel speed sensors), but can't get any more codes until there's a good 12-volt battery in it.

    I'm pretty sure the 12-volt is dead, so I'll replace it. After reading some threads on the forum and pricing several options I'm going to put in an Optima yellow-top, rather than another Miata battery. I'll do that myself.

    But the dealer takes $105 for plugging it into the computer. I can't imagine the battery will be a panacea, nor do I really think the wheel speed sensors are the problem here. Any insights?

    Any suggestions for getting the computer to tell us more?

    Thanks!
     
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  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    My suggestion is to replace the 12V battery, as you plan to do. Then, try to drive the car and see what happens. Maybe the other problems were induced by a near-dead 12V battery, or maybe your traction battery is about to die.

    If the latter, then the presence of a good 12V battery will allow the hybrid vehicle and traction battery ECUs to log DTC that can be retrieved by your friendly Toyota dealer.

    Don't count on a generic OBD-II code reader to be able to pick up those DTC. Good luck.
     
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  3. adric22

    adric22 Ev and Hybrid Enthusiast

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    I'll be very interested to hear the outcome of this. My Prius has similar issues where it runs the engine for a few seconds but will not start. I actually bought a new traction battery from the toyota dealer and picked it up today. I will be installing it this evening. So tomorrow we'll see if that makes a difference. If you followed my previous posts then you already know that the traction battery is dead. So that needed to be fixed one way or the other. But whether other problems exist remains to be seen.

    Funny thing, I never tried to drive the car after starting it to see if the EV mode would kick in. I just assumed it would not.
     
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  4. PugDogs

    PugDogs Junior Member

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    So the follow-up question from the n00b is: Why can't the dealer hook up a random 12-volt there in the shop and get whatever codes we need out of the computer? Surely the system isn't so finicky about the battery size that nothing else will work?

    Or is it?
     
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  5. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The 12 VDC battery has smaller, metric terminals, than a standard battery. Several of us have tried different batteries but it typically involves non-standard wiring that dealers are not authorized to use. However, I understand Sears now sells a 12 VDC battery with metric terminals.

    Bob Wilson
     
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  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The dealer wants you to purchase a new 12V battery from its parts inventory.
     
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  7. PugDogs

    PugDogs Junior Member

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    The update is: The new 12-volt seems to have done the trick.

    No difficulties, starting or driving.

    We'll institute a family policy of at least one excruciatingly long drive (1 hr +) per month during the winter just to make sure we don't drain the new battery prematurely.

    As others have this issue, let me recommend persistence in trying to jump your Prius. I almost never had it work in fewer than three jumps, but eventually a good 12-volt source would start the computer, and the system would run well until the next time I switched the key off. (The exception was that it told me I was averaging 43.1 mpg no matter how efficiently or poorly I drove.)

    I trust you'll all forgive me for not returning to the dealer to see if the error codes are gone from the computer. I'm not up for another $105 to have them tell me the new 12-volt isn't spec. The fact that there are no error symbols on the display or warning lights on the dash satisfies my curiosity today.

    Thanks for your insights!
     
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    All good, except that if you think one hour is a long drive, then it sounds like you are not driving your Prius very much and the new 12V battery may become discharged due to lack of vehicle use. This is especially true in very cold arctic weather which is not helpful for battery capacity and longevity.

    Suggest that you obtain a battery charger and hook it up a couple of times per month, if it is inconvenient for you to take a long drive (my idea of a long drive is one that takes most of a day.)

    Or, you can make the Prius READY and leave it alone for a few hours, no need to actually drive it.

    Regarding the need to jump the car multiple times before it will start, this might be because the installed 12V battery was in such bad shape that it drained the available power from the jump source, leaving insufficient power for the car's ECUs to boot up.
     
  9. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    I'll second Patricks's post.

    Someone here has installed a solar trickle charger in the back window but this would only help in a sunny location.

    In READY, the DC-DC converter is supplying 13.8V to the battery from the HV battery. A charger would be faster and better at getting a float charge on it and cheaper/easyer in the long run than a long drive!

    Make sure you get an automatic charger that shuts off when it's done.

    Another low battery inducing error messages?