Deep trouble - Prius 2005

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by JohnPrius3005, Feb 4, 2021.

  1. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Junior Member

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    Hi SFO,
    Thanks. Got it. Looks like I can simply attach the Meanwell output wires to the positive and negative 8mm battery posts as shown in step 18. I'll get to this once I get back to Kauai from Calif.
    I can guarantee that there is corrosion anywhere there could be! With 100% humidity all the time, it's quite a challenge!
    All cautions duly noted!
    Have a great day.
     
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  2. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Junior Member

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    Greetings all, Many thanks for all the helpful, informative posts, both to this thread and to a host of others I read frequently.

    My question today is for any of you familiar with using a Mean Well HLG-80H-C350A LED driver to "grid charge" a Gen 2 or 3 Prius. I am doing this as I write this. I hard wired the Mean Well unit to the HV Battery. It's doing it's job. Does anyone know whether these Mean Well units have built in reverse current protection? I'd like ideally to leave the Mean Well wired in, but am concerned that when the car systems start charging the HV Bat that this will "back feed" the Mean Well and do some damage. I have seen that some people build a diode into the connection circuit, and I'm guessing they do this on the assumption (or knowledge) that the Mean Well does not provide reverse current protection. I could do this too - build in a diode - or I can quite easily put a switch in line on one of the "output" wires from the Mean Well in order to isolate it when not being used to charge the HV Bat. Thanx in advance. Aloha
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I don't know about the MeanWell specifically, but many DC power supplies will have a largish capacitor across the output, and without a diode, that can mean that even without starting the car, a large reverse current flows right when you make the connection to the battery, and some power supply manufacturers will warn against eventual damage from that. Adding a switch but no diode could lead to the same current transient every time you close the switch.

    You can kind of minimize it by having the power supply on, with an output voltage already close to that of the battery, when closing the switch.
     
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  4. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Junior Member

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    Hi Chapman, Thank you again. I much appreciate your insights. For what it's worth here is what I have done. I hardwired the MeanWell unit to the HV Bat terminals. When initiating charging with the unit I first disconnect the 12 V battery "white plug", then disconnect the HV Bat safety plug. I then plug in the MeanWell to grid power. I have installed a basic switch in the V+ wire. I turn this switch on. I verify that 257 VDC - the rated output of the MeanWell is available at the Bat terminals. I connect the HV Bat safety plug. I verify that voltage is available at the Bat terminals. In my case it is around 200 VDC and increases slowly. After leaving this on overnight the voltage reaches around 227 VDC. The HV Bat and the MeanWell are warm to the touch. I then reverse the process: disconnect the safety plug, switch off the V+ wire, disconnect the grid power, and I'm done. When I want to start the car, I reconnect the safety plug, and reconnect the 12 V bat.

    The MeanWell unit is not per se intended as a power supply to be connected to a "chargeable client" so I suspect it does not have the large capacitor. And as you say, my procedure ensures that the power supply output is on and above the battery voltage before the circuit is completed by connecting the safety plug.

    Seems to be working now. Prior to creating this set up my HV Bat was so low it would not start the ICE. The car is by no means "fixed" but it can be driven. Which is progress here in the jungle. Aloha
     
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