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Did our transmission just go south? P0AA6, MG2 in car replacement!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by dat2109, Aug 5, 2015.

  1. dat2109

    dat2109 Junior Member

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    I think this is my first post here, and sadly not a great one to start with.

    The dealer just called and told us that they think our transmission has failed. I asked if they can tell me the codes they got from the car and they said they will call back with them. As it stands the car sits at the dealer, this is day 2.

    Backstory: 2005 Prius with just under 150k miles. Bought it used from a family that had all prior service done at the dealer and never had any accidents. After driving the car for 2+ hours the Triangle light and check engine light came on. It was still driving so we pulled into a gas station and shut the car off to see if the light would reset. The car never started again, the lights all turn on but it never goes into ready mode. It sat at the gas station for 4 hours to let it cool down and when we got back it was no different, still not waiting to enter ready. This is when it was towed to the dealer.


    I'm 200 miles away but am thinking its getting to be time for me to pick up the car and see if with help we can get this car back running again.

    I'll post codes as soon as the dealer provides them, if they dont get them for us I will read the codes myself. I cant say its not possible that the transmission is toast, but I sure hope that is not the problem. Fluid was last serviced about 10k miles ago and it was pretty clean without any excess shavings.

    If I do take this on myself I'll be looking for any help I can get from the community. I'm in upstate sc.
     
  2. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    It is....welcome aboard!
    Possible....but if it did, you'll be thousands ahead if you take the car from this dealer and verify the diagnosis.
    I'm troubled by a dealer that calls a customer and says that "they think that the transmission has failed."
    I like dealers that have more refined troubleshooting abilities than that.

    Presuming the transaxle has failed, I'd go with a used transaxle unless you're going to be putting another 150,000 miles on the car, and even then I'd think doing so anyway. My guess is that you can get a used unit for < $500 and have somebody install it for around $1000.

    Oh????
    Anybody out there besides me think that this is coincidental???

    Always look where you've been. ;)
     
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    sounds like you bought a car with a known problem......that's why they sold it.

    My 2005 transaxle failed at around 150k miles too, so it's not all that surprising.
     
  4. dat2109

    dat2109 Junior Member

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    I got a code but not a subcode from the dealer. P0AA6. I just started researching it and with the right subcode it seems the transmission could be to blame. No big deal if that is the culprit, but I would like to know before dishing out for that replacement.

    We've had the car a few months and a few thousand miles, I dont think anyone had a clue that there were more problems.

    JC91006, can you tell me what type of failure your transmission had? What did you do for a replacement??
     
    #4 dat2109, Aug 5, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 12, 2015
  5. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I think I had a MG2 failure. I ended up buying a used transaxle for $250 and paid my mechanic around $600 to put it in
     
    #5 JC91006, Aug 5, 2015
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2015
  6. dat2109

    dat2109 Junior Member

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    I cant pick up the car until this weekend, in the mean time the dealer is still looking at it. I'm anxious to start working on it and getting it back on the road!

    Dealers conclusion is transmission replacement is needed, cost $4000.
     
  7. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    Can either of you tell me if the ATF had been drained and refilled before the tranny failed? I have yet to hear of a tranny failure when the ATF was periodically refreshed. Not to boast, but my 2004 is at 277k miles and the tranny is fine (ATF refresh every 60k miles).

    JeffD
     
  8. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    The P0AA6 means there is a high voltage leak. The likely causes are the HV battery, the air conditioner compressor, or the transmission. Less common would be a damaged HV cable. Here are a couple of links from Luscious Garage. The first is an example of good trouble shooting.

    This next link describes a simple test to determine the source of the leak. No tools are required to run this test.


    A Gen I and the Gen III Prius will restart and continue to run with this code present. It is just the Gen II that will not restart. Clearing the code with a reader or by disconnecting the 12 volt battery will give you one restart and the car will run until shut off or catches fire.;) That could help get the car home.

    A proper sub code will also help identify the source of the leak.

    Brad
     
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  9. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    I was a hard sell on replacing transaxle fluid initially.

    There's no combustion inside the transaxle and it's a sealed unit so no dirt should be getting in there either.
    Also...this isn't the 1950's. There aren't pounds and pounds of metal shavings cruising around inside from crude machining to worry about.

    In a normal car, with a normal CVT (inasmuch as you can call a CVT "normal") I would say that there is a zero point zero percent chance of the unit suffering a lubrication related failure before the one billion mile mark.
    However (comma!!!)
    Prius CVTs have electrical windings in them, and stator failures are somewhat common in the motorcycle community - so I understand the benefit from changing the lubricant at 30-60K and thence every 60K or so....and using the OEM stuff - which surprisingly for Toyota isn't outlandishly priced.

    I'm not convinced that the OP's failure wasn't related to the somewhat recent transaxle fluid replacement, but that was 10K miles ago - so I think that the statute has run on that issue, but this isn't a $4,000 fix!!!!

    It's insane that a company that's trying to maintain a reputation for frugality and reliability should have to rely on a dealership that would attempt to shake down a customer for a $4,000 repair that could and should be done for "only" about $1,000.

    There's a warranty labor rate that's associated with a transaxle replacement.
    This is the rate that the company would reimburse the dealer if they have to replace the piece/part under the OEM warranty, and they usually keep those rates written down in hieroglyphics in a dusty ledger, locked in a safe and guarded by armed former Army rangers.
    For a customer funded repair, the rate is literally whatever the dealer thinks that the customer will tolerate.

    Let's pretend that the warranty rate is about 4 hours, and the loaded repair rate is $250/hr.
    That's $1,000 for labor on a $3,000 part....and even at this somewhat inflated price the dealer never suggested a re-manufactured or even a used component for a ten-year-old car with half lunar mileage?!?!?! :eek:



    ----crooks! :(
     
  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I bought my 2005 because of the failure. A friend of mine owned it and didn't want it anymore after the failure. So I don't have history of any changes of the fluid.

    There is a TSB on the transaxle p0aa6 with subcode 526. If this is the case, you might have a claim with Toyota. They might give you a break on the repair since there's a TSB on it.....it would covered under extended warranty up to 150k miles.
     
  11. dat2109

    dat2109 Junior Member

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    I saw the TSB, it seems to align with what we are experiecing. Miles on the car are 150288. The dealer it was towed 2 had 2 options, full transmission replacement for $4k or trade the car in for one on their lot. It felt like they were leaning heavily for trading it in.

    I've got the car in my hands now. Brought a trailer to the dealership but the codes were cleared and it drove home. All the way up to the point that they gave us our keys and took our money they were adamant that the car was dead and we would have to roll it to the trailer to load it up (something they weren't planning to assist us with, nor were we asking them to). I've driven it a few hours now and no repeat code.

    I got a megger, time to start testing.

    Thank you for the replies so far, this could be a very stressful situation but the community makes that better!
     
    uart likes this.
  12. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    I have a Gen I that had a P3009 code appear. That is the same as your PA006 code. I cleared the code to start the isolation test and the code has not reappeared for months. Sometimes weird stuff just happens. Order a Mini VCI cable now! Find a USA based seller so you can get it in under a month. You could open up the battery for just a visual inspection. Look for rusty spots. You will not see puddles of electrolyte. Minute amounts are all it takes. The air conditioner compressor can be unplugged to remove it from the HV system. Until the car sets a code again you have zero chance of finding the problem.

    Brad
     
  13. dat2109

    dat2109 Junior Member

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    Thanks for the reply Brad. I've already had techstream run, everything is looking hunky dory right now. Battery looks great. I was hopeful the code wouldn't have been cleared out or would reappear but so far its MIA. Since this isnt my car and I had to tow it 200some miles to my house I hope to check everything I can and maybe find the intermittent problem. Right now I am trying to track down some service manuals...
     
  14. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    Dat,

    Send me a PM and I will send you a link to a zip archive maintenance manual on my web server. There are two versions; one for 2004-2005 and the other is for 2006-2009.

    JeffD
     
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  15. dat2109

    dat2109 Junior Member

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    I just did some diagnosis on the car, I've got to say a big thank you to the help I've gotten so far!! I'm nowhere near finished but I am certainly making progress.

    The MG1 and wiring passed.
    The MG2 and wiring failed.
     
  16. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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  17. dat2109

    dat2109 Junior Member

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    If the rain holds off I am going to go back over my testing to make sure I didnt do anything wrong and attempt taking off the trans side cover to visually inspect the MG2, I'll be sure to post pictures of what I find.
     
  18. dat2109

    dat2109 Junior Member

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    I also did some quick searching online to see if there is a better fluid out there than the Toyota WS that I have been putting in this, seems like that is still the gold standard. I have 4 quarts on the way to me but I'm all ears if anyone knows about anything better.
     
  19. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    On a Gen I Prius it is possible and much easier to replace just the MG2 without removing the whole transmission. I do not know if this is possible on a Gen II.
     
  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I wouldn't muddy the waters with anything other than Toyota ATF-WS. Plus: the Owners Manual has pretty strong language, warning to use JUST that.