Difficult diagnosis: Prius died while driving

After ALL of that time, effort and money..................
You didn't mention any attention to the 12 V battery or it's main connections.
You probably should have gone there FIRST.

 

Welcome to PriusChat!!

After disconnecting the 12v, first start by cleaning up the MAF sensor, butterfly valve and throttle bore, unless already known to be clean.

Not that I'm aware of, and neither of those offer INFs (aka subcodes/detailed codes). At a minimum you may need a better handheld obd2 scanner or App, as Dr P isn't all that useful : Gen2 OBD2 app review | PriusChat.

Many here will use a mini-vci cable and toyota techstream installed on a windows device (or you can emulate as well), this will offer INFs.

FYI : you're moderated until you've posted 5 times.

Sam, please reread the first paragraph.

 

Yes, take a look at this thread:

Gen2 OBD2 app review | PriusChat

The car wants you to know what's up, and hasn't been given much opportunity to tell you yet.

I wouldn't be anywhere near calling it a lost cause before getting the complete information.

 

Resetting the 12v may have set you back a bit, the codes that were stored are now erased. You will have to dig a little deeper to find the cause now. I just cannot believe your car would stop after the traction control lit up for a brief moment. Running out of gas, that's a different story, still a strange coincidence it happened the exact same time.

Have you checked the FUSES in the front engine compartment, next to the jump start point?

 

Simply disconnecting and reconnecting the battery is
NOT "giving it any attention".
I see no other reference to it.

 

Corroded wire?

When you rebuilt the hybrid battery did you take the battery ecu out of the battery chassis the one in the metal can and carefully check the harness plugs and the ecu pins for corrosion and take the pcb board out of the can and check the pcb for corrosion or smutz on it.

Very common issue. Especially if that hybrid battery pre rebuild was throwing the RTOD and that code was repeatedly cleared to continue driving by disconnecting the 12 volt battery.

This guy:

 

You measured 12.7V at the jump points under the front hood?

Did you lock down the orange safety switch?



Though it may not be related to why the vehicle stopped running (those codes are gone), best to follow the obd2 codes that you have now. The FSM workups below are a bit dated, but may help. Also double check your HV rebuilding work, as you may have missed something.

Here is the workup for DTC P3004 with INF 131 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3004131.pdf

Here is the workup for DTC P3004 with INF 132 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3004132.pdf

Here is the workup for DTC P3004 with INF 133 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3004133.pdf

Here is the workup for DTC P3000 with INFs 123, 125, 603 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3000123.pdf

Here is the workup for DTC P3000 with INF 388 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3000388.pdf

Here is the workup for DTC P3000 with INF 389 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3000389.pdf

Per the manual, follow the workup for P3004 first, then do P3000.

If you feel this is fuel related, buy some starting fluid and test the idea, if that keeps the engine running for more than 15 seconds, then check the fuel related fuses/relays/connections/wiring and finally pump.

 

No it wouldn't (missed the lack of ready). When you disconnected the 12v you reset the long and short fuel trims to factory default, and a dirty MAF and or throttle bore/plate will often cause an engine not to start once you're able to 'ready'. Inspect, and if needed clean the MAF with the appropriate cleaner, and use a toothbrush dipped in vodka or rubbing alcohol for the throttle bore and butterfly plate.

Both are more long term maintenance items, becoming dirty over time, and may prove to be an issue when reconnecting 12 volt sources.

 

No. This was me responding to the last line of your first post.

Best to double check your "post breakdown" HV battery related work, and do the step by steps for the above obd2 codes (P3000 and P3004). At 280k the throttle plate and bore could be quite dirty, and the MAF as well, once you have the tools and supplies, it only take 5 or 10 mins.

 

Just to use another App or three to scan with, or wait for that Autel to come in the mail.