DIY Brake Bleed - can't tell if air went back into system

I ended up repurposing the surgical tubing + clear vinyl tubing that I used for the ATF fluid job + a zip tie to secure the surgical tube onto each bleed screw. Followed the forums advice and NutzaboutBoltz video to the T. Nothing went as planned - couldn't see the fluid, air mixed in with fluid on large diameter tubing, and 2 stripped bleed bolts on the rear of the car from prior mechanics stripping the bolt.

The problem - every time I bled the the system, liquid came out but it was difficult to see the flow rate in the surgical tubing and the clear part of the tube was always filled with both air and fluid....sh@@. Not an evenly filled tube flowing with brake fluid...probably because the vinyl tubing is larger than the surgical. That brake bleed nozzle is small and I think it requires a very small diameter tubing if you're not using a vacuum hose and want to avoid air + fluid when you bleed. I'm hoping the flow rate pressure coming out of the bleed screw was enough that no air went back into the system...stayed in invalid mode the entire time.


No idea if I got everything flushed from each brake line - the rear lines supplied most of fluid out into the plastic catch jar...front lines were just a few quick turns like the video...I think fluid came out, couldn't tell. Also, old fluid looked like new fluid (after 111k miles)...Wth. Used all two bottles.

Car is still up on jacks, but I started the car up and pressed the brakes a bunch, no codes....yet. Will test drive after I lube the brake pistons.

Can anyone eyeball my brake pads to see if I should replace or let it ride? I read that service limit is 1mm and new pads come in at 10mm.

Front:


Rear: