Diy drum brake shoe replacement

What will the dealership charge? Seriously, I'm a rabid disc brake DIY'r, hate drum brakes. The most I'll do is pull the drum, release the spring clips that hold the shoes against the backing plate, and sneak a little lube into the three bearing points between shoes and backing plate. For shoe replacement, I did it once, swore never again: let the pros do it.

Maybe just me: if you're regularly doing drum brakes, yeah go for it. A pair of fully threaded M8X1.25 (by maybe 25mm long) bolts may be needed, to work the drum off. There's threaded holes in the drum face.

 

Man, I hate those clips! I used to just leave them in place and pry the shoes up a little, just enough to sneak the lube in at the support points. They are springs, after all.

-Chap

 

I push the spring clips down with a pair of pliers, while simultaneously turning the flat head of the locking pin. It is awkward, can take two or three tries. I think there's a proper tool for this? Not something you need to often, 2~3 times in the life of vehicle?

 

What is 8, 2, 3? If that means lining depth in mm, then nothing needs to be done. The new thickness is 11 mm on the front pads and 4 mm on the back shoes. The minimum spec is 1 mm.

 

It'd be worthwhile to redo the aforementioned lube, relatively easy, but yeah: 2~3 mm is lots on shoes, no need to replace. Missed that.

 

petal.....wow

 

As far as I know brakes pad/shoe thickness in 'States is commonly stated in mm. I've never heard it quoted in 32's of inches.

I would just get the drums off first, see for yourself. Lube the contact points while you're in there. And yeah, maybe disconnect the 12 volt for the duration of the drum being off.