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DIY: Spring Install

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by andino, Jul 12, 2010.

  1. andino

    andino Senior Member

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    DIY Guide: Spring Install

    So over the weekend, I installed my Tein Htechs on my car. I figured others probably want to try it themselves but either don't want to venture into something they're not comfortable with or wanted a guide. Anyways, I tried to take pics of each step but being the first time taking apart my 2010, I was figuring stuff out as I went. So hopefully this will help you save a little bit of cash by doing it yourself or just help you gain a bit knowledge into the subject.

    -------------------------------------------------------

    * Disclaimer* I am not a certified mechanic and don't have any official certifications for working on cars. I am in no way responsible for you or your car if you mess something up or break your car in any way. This is only a guide based on my experience and could be totally wrong. *Disclaimer*

    --------------------------------------------------------

    Now that is out of the way, :focus:

    This guide was made using Tein Htechs as an example but the general idea can be used for any spring install. It can also be used as a guide for a coilover install but I don't have any documentation on how to remove the rear struts.

    Tools Required:
    - 23mm Socket (1/2" drive recommended)
    - 21mm Socket (1/2" drive recommended)
    - 19mm Socket (1/2" drive recommended)
    - 17mm Socket (1/2" drive recommended)
    - 14mm Socket (3/8" drive)
    - 12mm Socket (3/8" drive)
    - 10mm Socket (3/8" drive)
    - 1/2" drive breaker bar
    - 1/2" drive ratchet
    - 3/8" drive ratchet
    - 1/2" drive 3" extension
    - 3/8" drive 3" extension
    - 3/8" drive 6" extension
    - 17mm wrench (optional)
    - flat head screwdriver
    - at least a pair of jackstands
    - hydraulic jack or equivalent
    - Strut Spring Compressor (available from Autozone for a deposit which they will refund once you return the compressors)

    You may substitute air tools if you have them. I just made the guide assuming those attempting to do this don't have them. If you have them, life is much easier as I did mine with them.

    ----------------------------------------------------------

    Initial Prep: Break loose all the lugs to make them easier to pull off once the car is in the air. Make sure springs to be installed are for the 2010 Prius and not for some other car. Make sure you understand the steps in the guide and are well hydrated and ready to tackle the task.

    -----------------------------------------------------------

    I started with the rear suspension since it looked much easier than the front. But you can start with either.

    Rear Suspension:

    Step 1: Jack up the rear of the car via the jacking points. Make sure the front wheels are secured so the car won't roll anywhere.

    Step 2: Take both rear wheels off to gain optimal access to the rear suspension components.

    Step 3: Use your 17mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar to remove the
    nut that holds the pin to the bottom of the rear struts.
    [​IMG]

    Step 4: Pull out the bolt that holds the lower strut assembly to the beam suspension. You have have to use your jack to relieve pressure off the bolt in order to do this. Do this to both sides before continuing or else you won't be able to easily complete step 5.
    [​IMG]

    Step 5: To remove the spring from the perch, you'll have to pull down the beam enough to pull it out or have a buddy step down on the brake assembly enough for you to tug out the stock spring.
    [​IMG]

    (spring removed)
    [​IMG]

    Step 6: Take note of the way the spring came out of the perch and look at the way the grommet mates up with the spring.
    [​IMG]

    Step 7: Place the top of the new spring onto the mount on the car and push down the beam enough to fit in the new spring. Repeat for opposite side.
    [​IMG]

    Step 8: Position your jack underneath the beam so that you can jack up and compress the spring enough to reattach the bolt onto the lower strut.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Step 9: Reattach the nut onto the bolt and tighten firmly. Put your wheels back on and tighten the lugs then lower the rear back onto the ground. That's it for the rear! :eek::rockon:

    ----------------------------------------------------

    Front Suspension:

    Step 1: Pull off the windshield wipers using a 14mm socket. For the passenger side, its pretty straight forward. For the driverside, you'll need to use your flathead screwdriver to pry up the plastic cap to expose the 14mm nut. After you remove the nuts, pull up on the wipers to take them off. Take note of the position of the wipers for when you have to put them back.

    Step 2: Remove the windshield cowl by first pushing in the centers the small push clips on the left and right side of the plastic cowl. Then use your flat head again to gently pry up the left and ride pieces of the cowl to make it easier to remove. Then undo the clips on the lower front portion of the that attaches it to the metal below. (sorry, I forgot to take pictures of all this)

    Here's what the engine bay will look like after the removal of the plastic cowl.
    [​IMG]

    Step 3: This is where we'll need to remove the wiper assembly and tray in order to reach the top mounts for the front struts. Use your 10mm socket and various extensions to remove these bolts. I recommend first removing the 4 bolts that hold the wiper assembly to the metal tray and then position that assembly on top of the HSD cover. Then you have easy access to the rest of the 10mm bolts. Take note of how the bolts of the wiper assembly differ from those of the tray.

    Step 4: After you have removed all the bolts, position the tray and assembly motor in a way that you can access all 6 of the top mount nuts.
    [​IMG]

    Step 5: Break loose the nuts for the Driver and Passenger top mounts but don't fully remove them.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Step 6: Jack up the front of the car and take off the wheels. You'll now be looking at the strut assembly and front brakes
    [​IMG]

    Step 7: Use your 12mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the brake sensor and brake line to the strut. Also use your flat head screwdriver to undo the plastic snap that holds the brake line sensor to the strut just behind the two large bolts.
    [​IMG]

    Step 8: Use your 23mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two main bolts that hold the brake assembly and control arm to to the strut.
    [​IMG]

    Step 9: Use your 17mm socket to remove the bolt that attaches the sway bar endlink to the strut housing.

    Step 10: Undo the top bolts and remove the strut assembly from the car.

    Step 11: Fasten the spring compressors to the spring and compress the spring slightly.

    Step 12: Locate the 19mm nut at attaches the top mount to the strut and remove it.
    [​IMG]

    Step 13: Take apart the strut assembly taking note of the order of the parts (sorry I should of snapped a shot of this but I forgot)

    Step 14: Place your new spring onto the strut and compress using the spring compressors enough so you can reassemble the strut and tighten the top mount to the strut.

    Step 15: Put everything back in and make sure to tighten everything so there are not rattles or part separation.

    Lower the car back down and enjoy the new lowered stance (or stock if you're going backwards) and make sure to get your alignment done in about 2 weeks so you leave time for the springs to settle and you don't prematurely wear out your tires.

    ---------------------------------------------------------

    Hope the guide wasn't too confusing. If you run into any issues or have questions, feel free to post here or PM me and I'll try to answer to the best of my abilities.
     
  2. andino

    andino Senior Member

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    Sorry not sure if its just my computer but my portrait pictures are getting resized weird.

    edit: Since i'm not too sure what's going on, here's the link to my album with all the photos on Flickr. They're in reverse order so keep that in mind as you flip through them

    [ame="http://www.flickr.com/photos/24494457@N08/sets/72157624356880797/"]2010 Prius Spring install (ZVW30) - a set on Flickr[/ame]
     
  3. drunkin master

    drunkin master Contributing Member

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    I am buying a set of springs myself. I was wondering if you can install them for me.
    Budgets a bit low, let me know if you can help, thanks.
     
  4. andino

    andino Senior Member

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    ^^ Sent you a PM man. Let me know.
     
  5. sti-nkr

    sti-nkr Prius Ricer

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    I used a small prybar to pop my rear springs out. I jacked up half the car at a time to take all the stress off the side I was working on. popped out the old and slid in the new.
     
  6. andino

    andino Senior Member

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    ^^ That sounds dangerous haha. Probably a lot easier than my way though.
     
  7. sti-nkr

    sti-nkr Prius Ricer

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    the spring barely pops out at you, doesnt even leave its seat. I used my chubby friend to hold the front tophat down while I undid the front strut, and to put the new spring on. I was just way too impatient to go to town and rent a spring compressor.
     
    marvingloria2011 likes this.
  8. andino

    andino Senior Member

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    ^^ Yeah I didn't use a spring compressor to pull the fronts off but its a pretty large spring so in the DIY, I advised that whoever is attempting did as it could be their first time doing such a task. I needed a compressor to put the new springs back on the front struts though. I was working by myself however haha
     
  9. isteve74

    isteve74 New Member

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    Only thing I did different in my car was - Not taking out the big black metal piece. Just loosen all the silver 10mm bolts and I got my hands under by holding up higher. I'm sure taking it out is easier (as seen pictures), :-p Maybe i'm too lazy hahaha.. great images and work Andino
     
  10. randydid

    randydid New Member

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    THANKS Andino!

    This guide was VERY helpful-expecially for the front install. I decided to go with Eibach springs as I have always been pleased with their performance. I have put Eibachs in at least a half a dozen cars over the years. As soon as the crazy winds here in New Mexico stop, I will wash her up and get some pics of my 2011 up here. My MSR 225 40R18's are a tight fit-some rubbing when cornering on uneven pavement. I will report MPGs after I get some miles in.

    I may need to work on sway bars next but will have to wait until I get my windshield replaced due to a rock chip that came from nowhere.... :-(
     
  11. macmaster05

    macmaster05 Senor Member

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    Wow I didn't realize how much different the rear suspension is on the Gen III compared to Gen II, such as the spring perched around the strut and having to take apart the seats on the Gen II.

    This is one of those installs I would never do myself. I'd rather pay the $150 to have it done. By the time I buy all those tools I've spent more than I needed to. But props to you for this great DIY.
     
  12. samsprius1

    samsprius1 HEV Fanatic

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    Thank you! this will come in handy, Tanabe NF210s ready to go on:D
    Think I have everything, hope to do it this weekend!
     
  13. randydid

    randydid New Member

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    Here are some shots of the finished product. Still need to wash her though. The ride is very nice and worth the mod.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. DaYooper

    DaYooper Member

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    Question: Where are you guys getting the springs? Cost? Can you provide a link? I am definitely interested in doing this mod but need some direction in purchasing?
     
  15. danvee

    danvee Blizzard Brigadier

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    Striking look, Randy! :thumb:

    Enjoy it!
     
  16. randydid

    randydid New Member

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    I got my Eibach Springs from TireRack.com. shipping was fast and they were about 206.00 and the shipping was 26.00 or so. Took me about four hours to do the install with hand tools listed in OP.

    /randy
     
  17. DaYooper

    DaYooper Member

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    Thanks!

    SCH-I500 ?
     
  18. dynasty

    dynasty Member

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    did anyone take the car in for an alignment after lowering the car? was it necessary? thanks
     
  19. indyV

    indyV Junior Member

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    I ordered some eibachs and when i get them put in i'm getting an alignment done. Save yourself the hassle so that you dont have to replace your tires earlier than usual.
     
  20. macmaster05

    macmaster05 Senor Member

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    You should absolutely definitely 100% get an alignment after you install springs. Your will suspension and alignment will be funked up guaranteed. You can do it immediately after or wait no longer than 500 miles.

    It's not really an issue for me because I have lifetime alignments w/ Firestone ($150) on my car so I got one immediately after and again at my next 5000 mile service and so on and so on. The springs are constantly settling so some things might be wacky from time to time. I love alignments. The lifetime deal has been totally worth it. :rockon: