Duralube in Prius??

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Shelbyn, Dec 27, 2006.

  1. Shelbyn

    Shelbyn New Member

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    I am wondering about putting Duralube in my Prius.
    I used it several years ago in my 1990 Pontiac TransPort. I first put it in at 95K miles. I used it about 25K later and again about every 40-50K after that. I gave the car to my brother in-law at 330,000 miles. Never had a problem with the engine. Didn't burn oil either.
    I have heard that putting it in a "new" engine will stop the ware-in process and you have a "stiff" engine. Does anyone have an idea at what point Toyota considers the ICE warn-in enough?
     
  2. Beryl Octet

    Beryl Octet New Member

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    Location:
    Abingdon VA
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    I switched to Mobil 1 at the 10,000 mile oil change, at which point I thought the engine was broken in. By most reports, that's only about equal to 6,000 miles though, in a regular car, since the hybrid engine is stopped about 40% of the time. I didn't know that back when I switched to Mobil 1, or I might have waited until 15,000 miles. In other words, with my new cars, I figure 10,000 miles is the magic "broke in" number.
     
  3. Stepclimb

    Stepclimb Junior Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ShelbyN @ Dec 27 2006, 10:23 PM) [snapback]367487[/snapback]</div>
    The average oil purchased off the shelf already has antiwear additives. The exact ratios of base stock lubricant and antiwear, anti-scuffing, anti-foaming additives as well as detergents and pour point depressants etc. come from years of research and study. Adding aftermarket "stuff" only serves to throw off the well engineered balance.

    Most aftermarket "additives" are modern day "snake oil". They use clever advertising to convince consumers to use their product. Many of them have been sued successfully by the Federal Trade Commission for making false statements regarding the "benefits" of their products. Simply Google any oil additive product and see for yourself.

    If you want to prolong the life of your car, I suggest using a fully synthetic oil and a High quality filter and follow the recommended drain intervals. I, happen to use Amsoil 5w-30 and the Amsoil filter and get 25,000 miles between oil changes after changing the filter at 12,500 miles. Some people like Mobil-1 or the Castrol line of Synthetics.

    The WEAR-in ;) interval is addressed in your owners manual. Off the top of my head, I think it's around 500 miles before the ICE is considered WORN-in ;) . Please read the manual to be sure. This interval is when the piston rings wear the "peaks" off of the honed cylinder walls. I'm not sure how one would get a "stiff engine", but if you at least stick to the manufacturer's recommendations in regards to oil changes and stay away from the "snake-oil" stuff, your car should give you many years and miles of trouble-free service.
     
  4. gs1561

    gs1561 New Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ShelbyN @ Dec 27 2006, 09:23 PM) [snapback]367487[/snapback]</div>
    This is from the Mobil1 website. Many cars come from factory with synthetic oil.

    Mobil 1 is factory fill in:


    Acura RDX

    Aston Martin

    Bentley Amage and Bentley GT

    Cadillac CTS, CTS-V, XLR, XLR-V, SRX and STS and STS-V

    Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06

    Chevrolet SSR

    Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS

    Chrysler 300C SRT-8 and Crossfire SRT-6

    Cobalt SS

    Dodge Ram SRT-10

    Dodge Charger SRT-8, Magnum, and Viper

    Jeep Cherokee SRT-8

    Mercedes-Benz AMG vehicles

    Mercedes SLR

    Mitsubishi EVO III

    Pontiac GTO

    All Porsche vehicles

    Saturn Red Line

    Viper SRT-10
     
  5. LongRun

    LongRun New Member

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    If you want to use Dura Lube you must first analyze the chemistry of your current engine oil, then Dura Lube. You must analyze the interactions of the additive package in the oil and the chemistry of Dura Lube. After allowing for the interactions and the overall action of your now new additive package and comparing it with your current oil, make a decision. You can probably get the lab work done for under $10k and a couple of chemists and triboligists for another $10k. Or, pick a good oil and take the chemistry you get. Taking the oil straight up will work just fine. If you want to do something special for you car, how about a nice wax job.
     
  6. bryanmsi

    bryanmsi New Member

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    Don't bother with DuraLube or any of the other additives. At best, they do nothing. At worst, they'll actually damage your engine. I'm pretty sure Duralube was actually ordered by the FTC to stop making many of its claims because they were found to be false or deceptive.

    As others have said, the best protection you can give your engine is synthetic oil and regular changes.
     
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