Duralube in Prius??

I switched to Mobil 1 at the 10,000 mile oil change, at which point I thought the engine was broken in. By most reports, that's only about equal to 6,000 miles though, in a regular car, since the hybrid engine is stopped about 40% of the time. I didn't know that back when I switched to Mobil 1, or I might have waited until 15,000 miles. In other words, with my new cars, I figure 10,000 miles is the magic "broke in" number.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ShelbyN @ Dec 27 2006, 10:23 PM) [snapback]367487[/snapback]</div>

The average oil purchased off the shelf already has antiwear additives. The exact ratios of base stock lubricant and antiwear, anti-scuffing, anti-foaming additives as well as detergents and pour point depressants etc. come from years of research and study. Adding aftermarket "stuff" only serves to throw off the well engineered balance.

Most aftermarket "additives" are modern day "snake oil". They use clever advertising to convince consumers to use their product. Many of them have been sued successfully by the Federal Trade Commission for making false statements regarding the "benefits" of their products. Simply Google any oil additive product and see for yourself.

If you want to prolong the life of your car, I suggest using a fully synthetic oil and a High quality filter and follow the recommended drain intervals. I, happen to use Amsoil 5w-30 and the Amsoil filter and get 25,000 miles between oil changes after changing the filter at 12,500 miles. Some people like Mobil-1 or the Castrol line of Synthetics.

The WEAR-in interval is addressed in your owners manual. Off the top of my head, I think it's around 500 miles before the ICE is considered WORN-in . Please read the manual to be sure. This interval is when the piston rings wear the "peaks" off of the honed cylinder walls. I'm not sure how one would get a "stiff engine", but if you at least stick to the manufacturer's recommendations in regards to oil changes and stay away from the "snake-oil" stuff, your car should give you many years and miles of trouble-free service.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ShelbyN @ Dec 27 2006, 09:23 PM) [snapback]367487[/snapback]</div>

This is from the Mobil1 website. Many cars come from factory with synthetic oil.

Mobil 1 is factory fill in:


Acura RDX

Aston Martin

Bentley Amage and Bentley GT

Cadillac CTS, CTS-V, XLR, XLR-V, SRX and STS and STS-V

Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06

Chevrolet SSR

Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS

Chrysler 300C SRT-8 and Crossfire SRT-6

Cobalt SS

Dodge Ram SRT-10

Dodge Charger SRT-8, Magnum, and Viper

Jeep Cherokee SRT-8

Mercedes-Benz AMG vehicles

Mercedes SLR

Mitsubishi EVO III

Pontiac GTO

All Porsche vehicles

Saturn Red Line

Viper SRT-10

 

If you want to use Dura Lube you must first analyze the chemistry of your current engine oil, then Dura Lube. You must analyze the interactions of the additive package in the oil and the chemistry of Dura Lube. After allowing for the interactions and the overall action of your now new additive package and comparing it with your current oil, make a decision. You can probably get the lab work done for under $10k and a couple of chemists and triboligists for another $10k. Or, pick a good oil and take the chemistry you get. Taking the oil straight up will work just fine. If you want to do something special for you car, how about a nice wax job.

 

Don't bother with DuraLube or any of the other additives. At best, they do nothing. At worst, they'll actually damage your engine. I'm pretty sure Duralube was actually ordered by the FTC to stop making many of its claims because they were found to be false or deceptive.

As others have said, the best protection you can give your engine is synthetic oil and regular changes.