Hi all so i had a misfire/death rattle/ sounded like a lawnmower at light throttle when the ice kicks in due to low hybrid battery, googled it to find dirty injectors or egr, 1 bottle of injector cleaner no change (2012 110,000klms) removed half of egr including the black cap, cleaned and reassembled, runs better but no perfect, a week later and the engine light came on, codes for maf and egr, cleaned maf sensor, removed black cap screwed magnet all the way in and reset the engine light, still not running smooth, and engine light came back on after a week, the only other things i can think of is removing and cleaning the injectors or resetting that magnet thing when the car is stone cold, any ideas ?
As you've said the check-engine light is on, what are the trouble codes? While you had the EGR valve apart, did you happen to check the condition of the ski jump inside that rotor? A good one: A mashed one:
You need to buy the whole thing. It’s around $200 IIRC. There is a revised version, slightly taller IIRC. Not sure of the advantage. With it I believe you need to snip and retape conduit, and maybe should update some software (groan…). That all might be a fools mission; little or no upside. anyway, I’d clean the whole thing, remove/clean EGR cooler and valve, and the intake manifold, with its EGR passages. See links in my signature.
It would be a little easier to see if some more of the grease were wiped out, but yes, that does look mashed. If so, you should not reuse that valve. It will never open enough, and will always deliver too little EGR.
Hi Guys, thanks for all your input, is that wear and tear ? or have i overtightened it after cleaning the egr ? spewing if you cannot buy it separately, i'll try and build it up with super glue and baking powder, before throwing a whole one on.
Wear and tear. You probably couldn't do that by yourself, reassembling the valve, unless you heated up the rotor in an oven first and then cranked it down really hard. Superglue and baking powder would be another new experimental fix. Ozmatt just used a hot butter knife and kind of reshaped his. Successful at the time, but I guess we haven't checked in lately to see how it has held up.
I'm not sure what you mean by this. The ski slope is on the inside of the rotor. The spring is on the pintle shaft. The pintle goes through the valve housing in such a way that the pintle isn't turnable (or sure shouldn't be, anyway). It only moves straight in and out. That means when the rotor spins on it, the pintle does not spin, and the threads force it inward or outward. If you spin the rotor on clockwise from the end (as you are spinning it onto the shaft), when it gets to the bottom it (the rotor) should stop turning with a solid positive 'tock' which is when its ski jump hit the raised nib on the disk located on the pintle shaft. If the ski jump has a rut through it, there will be more of a scrape and the rotor won't just fully stop at that point.