Fuel pump hack useless

Perhaps it makes sense to look for a high-power, block heater and transmission heater. This could start the day off in Stage-4. Then with the tickle charge from the Enginer kit and possibly, considering using a 12 V aux, plug-in kicker, you might get closer to 80 MPG. Just a thought.

I've run out of gas over three dozen times and my goal in each case was to get to a safe parking place to refuel. So I would usually shift into "N" and coast down to the slowest, safe speed to reach my goal. Then use "D" to get down the road a bit. Extended EV was not my goal.

Still, thanks for doing the test. Too many haven't done the hard work.

Bob Wilson

 

Not many would carry the load as far as you did. You've contributed to our knowledge of the NHW11 and that is helpful.

Bob Wilson

 

Today Austin and I tried this. It worked, but was putsy, slow, and not worth it. If a person doesn't mind the steps and installs a supplement to the battery, such as enginer, it could effectively create a Nev.

 

From what I can tell, the best way to tweak an NHW11 is pay attention to warm-up and heat conservation. Aerodynamic mods help too. But trying to make it into an EV without your own software and controller is not going to be very successful.

Bob Wilson

 

Oh wow, I tried pulling the EFI fuse in the 2010 Prius. It did the same thing, and I kept an eye on the state of charge. When I get my enginer kit back in, I might see about installing a switch for that for neighborhood cruising when there are safe places to pull over. It's quite cool. It seems to only use one of the 2 motor-generators though.

Everything worked except for the PCS system. I'm guessing that it didn't like that it couldn't read the fuel injection to cut it off in an accident situation? Not sure.. but the PCS system didn't like it.

This car is a beast. I won't say what else I did, but it involved high voltage and water and all it did was throw a code! Needless to say, I will admit if I go in with a problem it won't be covered under warranty. LOL I think I would find a way to work through it in a fun way though. I plan on keeping the car for it's life anyways. It has been SO much fun!

 

One man's useless is another man's useful...

I force EV by switching open the throttle control power line to the Engine ECM.

Engine dies more or less under control, throws a couple of codes, but goes all electric. FYI, the EFI fuse in the Gen 1 kills display functions which like the SOC meter are key when running all electric.

So with a 3kw converter, on the flat I can do maybe 20-25mph continuos. Laws of physics rule...

With my 5kw converter, I can push all the way to the 35mph limit.

Going up hills is the limiting factor, I plan to run both converters for short uphill stretches.

So for my 1.5+1.5 mile commute on neighborhood streets, with 2 converters and 6kwh pack, I can go 100% electric. Which is exactly what I had set out to do.

If I need more than 35mph (or drain the Enginer), I pull over, flip a switch, restart the Prius and off I go...

Regards,

Gene

 

I'd love to learn more about how you did that modification, pictures, diagram, etc. if possible.

 

I agree! Please tell more! Where is the wire, and I also realized that. However, if you reinstall the fuse after the car codes, (can even clear the code with a scangauge if you want to) The car still stays in EV only mode, but the SOC comes back on the display!

 

Do you get the dreaded triangle coming up on the dash. I guess that there is no other choice but to pull over and restart to clear error code.

 

Gene, could you point us in the right direction to find that wire?

 

Scanning through the service manual I have on CD, I noticed a test procedure for the fuel pump. Looks like the tech's can merely power the pump with a temporary ground and positive connection from the accessory battery to a couple of pins of the fuel pump connecter under the back seat.

This wiring is easily accessed, and I am wondering if others here think it would be safe to just break or open the +12 wire in that harness, to simulate an out of fuel error on the car?

If it's not harmful for the fuel pump or any other system, I suspect that wire could be located at a side panel connection, and install an on/off switch inline.

I ask this, because if I'm remembering correctly, when I ran out of fuel while on the highway at highway speeds once, the vehicle in EV mode at that point allowed me to maintain speeds much higher than 34mph.

Granted the dash lit up like a Christmas tree, but with the Scangauge II, this might be clearable, I don't know.

If the above is not a good idea, how about inserting a 12volt valve inline with the fuel line close to the fuel rail. It could be opened/closed with the touch of a switch easily, and control fuel to the engine.

I've scanned the Engine ECM schematic over, and just can't find that " Throttle Control Power Line "