Grrrrr, dealer put Toyota Oil in my synthetic Oil Prius

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Wildkow @ Feb 23 2007, 08:51 PM) [snapback]395581[/snapback]</div>

Take the free service. IMO no harm done unless they charged you for something you didn't receive. At least the tech can count to 3. Have you considered going somewhere else?

 

One dealer I went to I told them to put in 3.5 quarts of my oil. They did that and topped it off with their oil. I complained and got them to remove the oil and filter and replace it with the oil I wanted for free.

 

It would be handy if there was a sticker, or something, you could place on the engine block to remind a dealer you want Mobil One, or any other oil that you were using. <_<

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Wildkow @ Feb 23 2007, 06:51 PM) [snapback]395581[/snapback]</div>

I would have them replace the oil with synthetic as soon as possible, petrolium and sythetic oil do not mix! they are two entirely different oils. at least they offered to fix it for free.

 

Next time you take it in, put a sign on the driver's side dashboard reading; Synthetic Only. If they don't get it, file a complaint about whomever did the oil change.. try again... sooner or later they will get an intelligent mechanic.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Wildkow @ Feb 23 2007, 09:51 PM) [snapback]395581[/snapback]</div>

I'd say you should be happy they're so honest and just didn't tell you and then charge you for synthetic. At least you know you can trust them.

 

I'm curious: why does the type of oil matter?

 

Wildkow, if my Prius got 'miss-oiled' in this way I would run it 5k miles, change back to synthetic, and confidently expect that no harm had been done.

Tomorrowmatters, with respect I believe that your concerns about non-compatability are not well-founded.

Sprague, the Q about what type of oil is not really resolved. In Prius I suppose that one could use correctly rated conventional engine oil with 5k or even 8k mile change intervals and never suffer from that. There would likely be some buildup of 'varnish' (mineral oil thermal decomposition products) on engine non-contact surfaces, but nobdody is sure that those 'hurt'.

Nevertheless some of us don't want varnish, and we prefer to use longer oil change intervals which become possible with synthetic oil. There may very well be other advantages to synthetic oil over the very long term, but this cannot be proved as yet for Prius.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tochatihu @ Feb 25 2007, 08:51 AM) [snapback]396194[/snapback]</div>

Well at least in the past this was an issue, here is a quote from a website on this.

".......One urban myth surrounding synthetic oil is its compatibility with conventional oil. At one time, those who switched from conventional to synthetics had to stick with synthetics—there was no going back. Synthetics expanded the seals in the engine; then, when conventional motor oil was used, that engine sprang multiple leaks.
Usage
Now, while the companies don't recommend mixing or switching back and forth, one company's synthetics are fully compatible with others and compatible with conventional oils. The source of compatibility problems was high levels of ester in the earlier synthetics. Considering the consequences, it's best to verify this compatibility, either on the company's website or with your trusted mechanic........."

here is the full link
http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/articlevi...=2&scccid=2

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TomorrowMatters @ Feb 25 2007, 11:08 PM) [snapback]396590[/snapback]</div>

I found it interesting that the manufacturers of synthetics recommend the normal oil change interval. Of course, that presumably means of a "good quality" dino oil. So, 10k is probably reasonable, since that's what Europe has as its recommended interval for the Prius. As well, within that interval, it should do a better job than dino oil.

Dave M.

 

For what its worth, Mobil 1 has a statement on the bottle that it is compatible with all conventional motor oils. I would just change back at the next service unless you need the benefit of the better flow rate at low temp.

I have been using Syn Oil and Syn Gear lubes in my previous vehicles. Some of the benefits include:

1. More stable viscosity (this contributes to less oil burning for most engines)
2. Better detergent properties (this minimizes deposits)
3. Extended change intervals (holds more contaminents in suspension, keeping them from damaging your engine)This is especially useful for differentials/gearboxes because you can essentially change one time every 100,000 miles or so.
4. Better flow rates at low temperature (protects better at very low temp)

The only real disadvantage (IMO) is the higher cost. However, if you change yourself, you will probably save money vs. taking it in.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dogfriend @ Feb 26 2007, 08:59 AM) [snapback]396673[/snapback]</div>

Lets not forget another benefit of sythetic is.......It doesn't make your car a driving oxymoron.
You use less "oil" and if you change it yourself you can take it in to recycle it.

 

Toyota in The Netherlands still recommends that after changing to synthetic oil, to not go back using mineral oil.

 

I always change my own oil just because service departments always screw things up. Takes me 15 minutes and I know it is done correclty.

 

I have a degree in Chem and Chem E, so take it for what you will.

Synthetic oil is still dino oil, it's made from petroleum from the ground, the difference to put it simply is that it is filtered so all the oil molecules are the same size and uniform.

You can mix it with regular oil and it won't sludge up or damage the car at all. Hence, the half blend oils that are part synthetic, part regular oil.

I studied gasoline and oils as a Chem E and I'm qualified to work as a petroleum E. Use synthetic because you want to use "the best" for your car, there's a lot of things in life we pay more for even though it doesn't make a difference because we percieve it to be better. I buy advil instead of ibuprofen for headaches because it's a brand name but advil doesn't do a better job.

Synthetic oil will not make your engine last longer, nor give you better mileage, or anything else.

Even consumer reports did a test on Syn vs Dino and they don't see a difference either.

The main thing about oil changes is that they be done on time at regular intervals.

The only way I can see synthetic having a real advantage is if the some didn't change their oil for a real long time, I'm thinking in a Prius, if someone didn't change their oil for 15K, because the oil molecules are uniform, they may be more stable and pretty much last longer.

If you get an oil change every 5K you will see no difference except a lighter wallet but who cares, your car ( baby) deserves the best, so use whatever you feel is best.

I think I will switch to synthetic too soon, I ordered a PELA oil extractor and will start doing my oil changes at home. I'll probably go with Castro Syntec.

Alex

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(moolman @ Feb 28 2007, 02:36 AM) [snapback]397691[/snapback]</div>

I will state my primary reason to use synthetic oil is proven winter performance at -40 C. According to the SAE J300 handbook, a conventional 5W-xx only has to be "good" (MRV data) to about -30 C, which is the maximum yield stress of 600 Poise.

It is misleading, certainly disingenuous, to state that synthetic oils are “filtered so all the oil molecules are the same size and uniform†(sic). I should also note I have 22 years experience in the process control field, most of that in petrochemicals, so I know my way around trays and pumparounds. It’s a stinky and dangerous process.

Crude is cracked to produce alkanes, cycloalkanes, and alkenes, all of which are highly useful and valuable feedstocks to the chemical industry. A typical synthetic motor oil will contain polyalphaolefins and esters.

Alpha olefins make up things like 1-butene, 1-hexene, 1-octene, 1-decene, etc etc. To produce PAO requires an alkene to produce linear alpha olefin, primarily from an ethylene cracker. You can either use the Fischer-Tropsch Process, or get LAO from oligomerization of di-ethylene.

A PAO is primarily and currently most efficiently made from 1-decene. PAO is a polymer, since it’s polymerized from an alpha olefin.

In the interest of Fair Disclosure and to avoid claims of Entrapment, somewhere above I purposely inserted a false statement as a “reliability test.†Just to see if you are paying attention.