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Happy with Car Price, but Two Nagging Things

Discussion in 'Newbie Forum' started by rslitman, Mar 2, 2008.

  1. rslitman

    rslitman Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2022 Prius
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    XLE
    One of these is probably too late to deal with, but maybe the other one isn't.

    Here's the one I that's probably too late to do anything about - I don't think I got a good trade-in allowance on my 1998 Acura Integra with under 120,000 miles. I have to be honest in saying that I didn't expect to make the deal the day I went to the dealer, but I was prepared with information relating to bargaining for a new car price, thanks to Consumer Reports online buying service (well-spent $14.00).

    What I hadn't done was to look up the value of my old car before I went in. I bargained them up $250, but after I checked N.A.D.A. Official Used Car Guide Company and some books I saw in Borders a few days after I made the deal, I realized that what I finally got was at least $3,000 below what these sites said it was worth. Now, I know that these sites are used by insurance companies to decide whether to total or fix a car (in fact, I got the NADA site link from the Intranet of my employer, which is an auto insurance company), and they are probably also meant for use by people who are planning to buy such a car, to see what they should expect to pay.

    The dealer gave me a spiel about what the car should bring in auction, blah, blah, blah, and maybe I wouldn't have gotten anything better from them, due to the low price I was getting the car at. So, I may have broken even there.

    I'm wondering, though, if I can do something about the other thing. I went for the 7 years/75K extended warranty. I have had extended warranties on other cars before. However, I didn't take it on my most recent car because two cars ago, I lost a bitter dispute regarding something that should have been covered but wasn't. There were a few times in years 4 through 7 of my last car, which I had for 9 years and 8 months, that I wished I had the extended warranty. So, I went for it, the only "extra" I went for - no rustproofing packages, no LoJack (although I did ask my insurance company - which is not the one I work for - if I would get a better rate if I got it, and they said no), just the extended warranty.

    The other day, I got Consumer Reports' annual auto issue. It contains an article about what bad deals these are, especially for a car like mine that has a great repair incidence record. I'm really having second thoughts about having spend > $1,000 on this, especially after having priced 10,000-song capacity iPods yesterday and realizing that I can't afford one now but probably could if I could get some of that warranty money back.

    Incidentally, the other person in this household flatly turned down the warranty package. He got his car two days after I did, from the same dealer, and knew what sales pitches to expect. They didn't even bother to send out the person who pitched the cosmetic packages for him.

    So, forget about my trade-in issue, I may just be upset that my longtime "baby" was worth so little.

    What I'd really like to know is if I can still cancel the extended warranty. I know I probably won't get all of my money back, but if I can get some of it back, that would help.

    Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me on this.
     
  2. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Active Member

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    They always say that you should negotiate trade-ins only after you get the car price you like. One of the reasons (a least) is because of what you're willing to do to get a "good price" on the new car. For example, if you get a "great price" that's $3K below MSRP, but they give you $4K less than they should have on your trade-in, you actually just effectively payed $1K over MSRP for the new car. So, you should get to a price you're happy with for the new car and then negotiate a price you'd be happy with for the trade-in.

    If you'd like to get an idea of what the Trade-in value of your car was, you can take a look at Kelly Blue Book trade-in values. Trade-ins are usually much less profitable than private party sales, so it's possible that you didn't get screwed *that* much.

    There are great debates here about whether the Extended Warranty is worth it. You have intelligent people arguing both sides, and there are reasonable arguments on both sides. Basically, it's an insurance policy; you're paying a little bit now to not have to potentially pay a lot later. However, as you point out, the Prius has a very good repair incidence record, so it may not be worth it.

    As far as canceling the warranty, you should be able to do that within 30 days of the purchase. If you then decide you want it, you can do it any time before the 3 year/36K mile standard warranty runs out. If you do decide you want it, you can get it for a very good price ($990 currently) here at PriusChat.
     
  3. Boo

    Boo Boola Boola Member

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    Yes, to supplement those good points:

    1. You can cancel within 30 days and get a full refund. Or you can cancel after 30 days and get a pro rata refund.

    2. The $990 warranty available here is not only cheap (you will not find a lower price), but it's better than the OP's. The OP's warranty is 7 years/75,000 miles. The $990 one sold here is Toyota's Platinum Care 7 years/100,000 miles extended warranty. Note that you can also buy Toyota's lesser extended warranties here at correspondingly lower prices.
     
  4. rexg

    rexg Junior Member

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    2012 Prius v wagon
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    Five
    Used cars values are really driven by the entire market on how the economy is and i have seen market indexes that state that we are not in a good place right now. kbb just projects the value based on predicted market data and so are n.a.d.a. and edmunds. I also traded my car in with a kbb trade in of 23,500 and only got 19,500 for it. i am in the auto finance industry and i research liquidation, loss mitigation and legal damage assesment for our company. i have access to one of the largest used car broker and they offer services such as used car sales information. my data stated that i can only get between 18,000-21,000 for it and yes i feel raped too but what can i do. unless i wanted to buy the prius 6 months from now or even later but i am happy that i did it.

    if you can give me the details, i can look your car up for you and see how much you were supposed to get for your car based on national auction information. btw, i also sold my jeep liberty to carmax and expected to only get 7,800 for it as kbb said and also my auction data. it turns out they bought it for 9,500 whereas my evo as stated above to have 23,500 was only offered for 16,000. go figure.

    anyway, just be happy with the car and cancel the warranty. you can always purchase it within the next 36,000 miles but so far this is the only board i have been a member on that do not have a section called "quirks and quarks" so i have decided not to get the warranty.
     
  5. Godiva

    Godiva AmeriKan Citizen

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    I got my 7/75,000 here from Troy for something like $650 or thereabouts.

    Cancel that extended warranty immediately and contact Troy. It's the exact same warranty you just bought. Only you save another $400.00.

    While trade in is fast and simple, you always make more money on a car through private sales. However, with 120,000 miles that's a harder car to sell.
     
  6. NaptownPrius

    NaptownPrius Getting Greener....

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    My dealer wanted to give me $4500 for my trade in which was worth a lot more.

    I sold it myself for closer to $6000.

    I floated the trade in value on a credit card to keep my loan balance lower as I negotiated for the car.

    If you can, sell it yourself.
     
  7. steviet

    steviet New Member

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    I'm curious if anyone has ever been able to negotiate the price of the car before telling them you have trade in? Every dealership I have been to won't do that. In my experience purchasing the prius it didn't matter because there wasn't any negotiations, at that time it was sticker price, but they did try to scam me by $2500 by giving me blue book for a lesser model than I was trading in.

    Steve
     
  8. morpheusx

    morpheusx Professor Chaos

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    Yes, but in my case my package #2 was advertised by Toyota on their website for $21,900 ($1000 under the MSRP). I knew my price when I got there. I was able to get them to give me $1500 on a 1991 Ford Explorer that needed some body and exhaust work that they originally only wanted to give $500 on.
     
  9. rslitman

    rslitman Junior Member

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    I forgot to say in my original message that I'd always traded in my old cars (except in two instances when my purchase was being done because my old car had been totaled). I didn't feel comfortable doing the various business details myself that are involved with selling a used car. I guess if I were getting rid of a car and not intending to get a new one, I'd have to go through this.

    So, yes, I paid the dealer a "convenience" amount for not having to do a lot of stuff myself, but $3,000 seemed to be awfully high.

    On Saturday, February 3, 1979, I went to a Saturday matinee showing of "Animal House", then a first-run movie, in my 1974 Dodge Dart Sport. When I came out to my car after the show, I saw a big dent in the car that I had never seen before. Of course, there was no note with the other driver's information on my windshield. This may not have even happened that afternoon.

    I never bothered to get this dent fixed. I probably had a $100 collision deductible then, and even that seemed insurmountable to me. More than two years later, when I went to trade this in on a 1981 Chevrolet Citation, the dealership told me that they'd have to knock off what they'd normally pay me for that car because of that dent. For years after that, I thought of "Animal House" as the most expensive movie I had ever gone to see.

    Much later, I read somewhere that the dealership probably would have given me the same allowance whether or not I had that dent, that they somehow find various "excuses" to knock down the price.

    Thanks also for the recommendations regarding the warranty.
     
  10. steviet

    steviet New Member

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    2006 Prius
    I agree with you, that does seem like a high price to pay for the convenience. Unless there is a 'cooling off' period in your state on sales like this then it sounds like you are probably bound to the sale.
     
  11. rexg

    rexg Junior Member

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    2012 Prius v wagon
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    Five
    trust me, they always make excuses. I traded in a 2 year old mercedes (which i traded in for a 4runner) and only gave me 8,000 below kbb trade in (which they actually sold for 10,000 more a week later) just because they told me they couldn't sell a luxury car. They lowballed me on the evo because they said it is a performance car that no one wants. They also lowballed me on an accord because they said the car has too small of an engine. ok then... i have had cars all across the plane and they always had an excuse why the trade in is so low. most of it they use the reason why you are trading the car in.

    however, i have been scammed before and lost thousands of dollars in counterfeit bills (m.o., cashiers checks doesnt make a difference to me as they can be copied too) and i thought id rather lose 3,000 than lose the entire car if some private party buys the car out of state. i actually got offers for 4,000 more than trade while posting on craigslist but was too scared to do it as ive never sold a car before.