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Headlights, Power Locks, Hazard lights, Cabin Lights, Signal lights ALL WORK -but Cannot Power Car

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Jouxse, Jun 21, 2020.

  1. Jouxse

    Jouxse New Member

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    Hi I have 2008 Prius. Has been sitting in the driveway the past few months, had to jump start it after one week of not running. The next day drove a few miles. The next day it was dead again. So did it again, but this time it seemed like the power button was struggling. Finally it did jump. Then the next 3 days no power, tried jumping and nothing. So obviously i thought the battery. Bought a new battery, installed and attempted to start but absolutely nothing on the dashboard or even the key fob area where i put the key in. BTW i always have my Keyless button off, so always use Key fob. What i did notice is that the headlights, hazard, cabin, lights, door lock, everything worked. Except the Dashboard was completely black. Nothing would turn the car on. It was as if the Power button stopped working or it doesn't recognize the key fob being inserted into the car. Not sure what to do? I did check most of the fuses, AM2, AM1, DC/DS you name it. Any suggestions?
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    Any OBD2 codes (DTCs) that you can share with us?

    Be sure to test the 12v battery voltage at both the battery, and at the jump points under the hood on the drivers side.

    Sounds like there could be a problem with the dash, here is a thread for a DIY combination meter fix.

    You can also find another lifetime warranty option here : Prius Speedometer Replacement
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    That's a lot of jump starting. At any time, did the cable polarity get reversed, even for a moment?
     
  4. Jouxse

    Jouxse New Member

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    @TMR-JWAP
    Hi I have been extremely cautious about ensuring the polarity was correct on both cars. Thanks for the thought.

    @SFO
    Thank you for the reply. I have no access to codes unfortunately. I only tested the battery not the jump points. Battery read 12.9volts. I'll test and let you know.
    I think dash also. I will check out the thread you shared and check back in.
    Thx!!!
     
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  5. Jouxse

    Jouxse New Member

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    Hi again,
    I took a look at the post about the combination meter being faulty but this doesn't seem to cause the symptoms that I'm having. My issue is that my car power button doesnt work at all. Completely dead with or without me pushing the brakes.
    I tested the jump points and it read 12.4.
    Any other ideas or fuses I'm not aware of ?
     
  6. Jouxse

    Jouxse New Member

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    @SFO hi just curious if you had any other ideas.
     
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    put a charge on the battery, or try jump starting again
     
  8. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    Whatever your issue is, it doesn't seem to be one that is commonly reported here. No lights at all on the dash, not even the Theft Deterrent one that is normally blinking, correct? I know you said you have the Smart Key disabled, but what would happen if you enable it? Will the car recognize the key when you approach it and light up the interior lights? Do you hear any of the normal sounds when you push the Power button (brake actuator buzzing when you are attempting to start the car, clicking of contacts near the HV battery as they are energized by the 12V)?
     
  9. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Inside the underhood fuse box, on the left side, is a see-thru fusible link assembly. It has several 'links'. Take a look at them and see if any are open. Most times, its the one in the upper right corner that opens due to a 'mis-jump', but maybe something else is going on and a different one opened.

    or maybe the power source ecu has died.
     
  10. Jouxse

    Jouxse New Member

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    Thanks everyone !
    @davecook89t yes the dashboard completely black even that red car symbol that flashes (immobilizer) doesnt show. When i enable the smart key, the dashboard is still black, but something unusual does happen. When i walk away with the key and someone elae sat in the car to try to start the car the dashboard flashed the indicator that states the key was not in the car.

    When I push the power and the brake I do hear the brake actuator.

    @TMR-JWAP
    I will check the fusible link assembly and come back.
     
  11. Jouxse

    Jouxse New Member

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    Hello. Again. I checked the white fusible link assembly under the hood in the fuse box and there were no broken connections. Is there some sort of starter or plug that may be loose?
    What's the power source ecu. Is replacing that a diy?
    I think i may be at last resort...and I will need to tow this car to a dealership.
     
  12. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    That truly should be your last resort, and if you need to get the car back on the road right away, that is probably your best option. However, you have not indicated that you have attempted to read any of the codes that the car is reporting. It is possible that you are not getting any power to your OBDII port, which you would need to get the codes, but if you can wait a few days for a code reader to be delivered, that might be worth a shot. Ideally you would get a mini VCI cable with Techstream, but even a generic reader with an ELM 327 chip could provide some useful information that could point you in the right direction.
     
  13. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Your hybrid battery died. Seeing this alot with people not driving an old G2 and letting it sit. Can't let an old hybrid battery sit like that especially if its outdoors in the sun with no windshield shade.That intense cabin heat over days and days will kill that battery.

    Dealer will tell you the same. It will throw a P0A80 code. Replace hybrid battery pack.

    Its the #1 post on this site for G2's. Go on any G2 forum and start reading about the hybrid battery.
     
  14. Jouxse

    Jouxse New Member

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    If I buy this would it actually read if I'm not able to power on anything ?
     
  15. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    I'm not really sure. It probably depends on whether you are getting power to the OBDII port or not. From my point of view, the generic reader is a useful tool, is generally reliable (compared to the mini VCI cable needed for Techstream, which has a mixed record depending on the source from which it was obtained) and is inexpensive ($20 or less). With the capabilities of new mobile phone apps like Dr. Prius and Hybrid Assistant, I believe every owner of an older Prius should have the tool. Hopefully it will help in your particular situation, but that is not certain.
     
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  16. Jouxse

    Jouxse New Member

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    Ok. Thank you. I have found these:



    Would either do?
     
  17. Jouxse

    Jouxse New Member

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    Forgot to ask you @edthefox5 is replacing hybrid battery pack a diy job?
     
  18. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Both of those obd devices you showed are worthless to you they will not pull hybrid codes.. You need a obd that has Toyota techstream.
    The mini vci is good but sometimes hard to set up requires a burner laptop like most hacked TS devices.

    VXDIAG on amazon.com.

    There's literally thousands of posts about how to rebuild a hybrid battery please start browsing and reading and using the search forums tab up top.
     
  19. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Au contraire, the Vgate Bluetooth dongle, if it is the genuine thing and not a knock-off, will function together with Torque Pro or Dr. PRius, with which you can retrieve codes. But it will limit your diagnostic ability as it will not retrieve INF (or sub) codes nor enable you to look at freeze frame data. You can look at some live data, though.
     
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  20. Jouxse

    Jouxse New Member

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    Thanks. I was just looking for a simple yes or no to it being diy. Sounds like it is. I looked up some other OBDII readers so hopefully the one I picked works. Will keep you updated,if not for current readers at least for future.