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HELP!! 06 Prius stops accelerating, all warning lights on icluding hybrid system warning light

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Taylor Ebersole, May 8, 2019.

  1. Taylor Ebersole

    Taylor Ebersole New Member

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    HELP PLEASE!! I’m super desperate here. I financed a 2006 Prius with around 150k miles on it in February 2019 and as someone who lives alone and is barley scraping buy, I have nowhere near enough money for a whole new hybrid battery, I just bought this car to get out of an old cars problems that put me under! I’m going to list the problems and solutions we tried from other forums on here as there’s a lot. For the first two months the car was great! Now it’s nothing but problems. Hoping it’s something I’m missing or something and not the hybrid battery as I don’t know what I’ll do besides drive it till it dies.

    • The dash lights stopped coming on, about 2-3 times a week id have to unplug the white plug from the 12v battery for 30 secs and they’d come on

    • The Red triangle exclamation light, brake system light, check engine light (on dash), and the hybrid system warning light (on monitor) came on (TPS sensor light was on the whole time I owned not sure if that’s a light as well that would come on)

    • I replaced the 12 V with a brand new battery, the lights were off for the first 30 seconds then it was like nothing changed

    • Later that week a wind noise started coming from back passenger seat where the vent looking grate thing is in the shoulder area of the seat.

    • I checked the diagnostic screen from accessory and while turning car off and the battery never goes into a low number stays in the safe rage that other forums all say it should. (never go under 12 hovers 14.5 when car started)

    • We took apart and cleaned the air intake as a lot of forums suggested the battery was overheating. It was dirty but not clogged or full like the videos on YouTube.

    • After putting together the car would start but not go into ready mode, if id try to shift into any gear the monitor would tell me to push P when Parked.

    • After reading some forums we took out the brown (7.5 I believe not sure tho) fuse from the fuse box for 5 mins and replaced, the car started and went into gear normally, drove great initially no warning lights like a brand new car! Then about 2 mins down the road the monitor beeped and it said “Problem” before going away and all the same previous lights came back on. after assuming my car was just dying I kept driving for a week. I also noticed the cruise control wont work now when the dash lights on but worked in the brief period before they came back on (when the lights came on it literally turned my cruise that was on off and it doesn’t come back on)

    • NOW HERES MY PROBLEM when I go to accelerate from a stop it’s like the car misfires, it’ll act like it’s going to go then pull back then go again then pull back then go but very very sluggish and accelerating is very slow. Then after less than 10 mins the energy monitor screen will show nothing going to or from the elec.motor and battery and the car will not accelerate. Foot to the floor there’s a loud roaring from the hood like it’s trying to go but something's not engaging. Going up a hill the car decelerated even with foot to the floor there’s noting. BUT if I pull off the road and turn the car off and right back on it’ll drive like the first sentence slow and misfirey until the car stops accelerating again.

    • When I was putting the white plug back in (from problem 1 dash lights have a problem coming on but alottt more frequent not about only 2 times a week IF THAT are they actually on and I have to leave out for over 60 seconds rather than 30 or they won’t come on still) I slipped and hit the small white wire to the right of the plug and It came loose making an actual battery symbol come on by the hybrid system warning light. After getting home the husband re put It in there and all the lights were off for a whole 10 minute drive! Then right before pulling up they all came back on except the battery light wasn’t on the monitor only the hybrid one is like before.
    I have looked and looked these forums and haven’t found anything specific to my problem only really close but things I’ve already done they say fixes it so I’m just not sure anymore. I’d think if the battery was dying the car would know immediately rather than a while down the road? But I honestly don’t know. Please help!
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    Every time you disconnect the battery, you're clearing the stored codes (DTCs), this tricks the vehicle into thinking everything is ok again. What you're really doing is kicking the can down the road, and potentially making the problem(s) worse. Eventually this 12v battery trick will no longer work, leaving you stranded or worse.

    Those displayed warning lights are trying to tell you something bad has happened, do you have a copy of the owners manual?

    You will need an OBD2 reader/scanner, which can help direct you towards the problem, instead of guessing. See if one of the local auto parts stores has a 'Toyota Hybrid' compatible OBD2 reader/scanner that you can borrow. If none of the available scanners offer useful DTC codes, then try another location or auto parts chain as they all carry different scanners.

    If you can't find someone with a OBD2 reader/scanner, purchase a OBD2 blue tooth adapter online for $2 and download the appropriate free phone app (the phone will need blue tooth compatibility to communicate with the adapter). Once you have the codes read, be sure to write them all down and post them here for additional help.

    At a minimum, it sounds like your HV battery has failed or is failing, and driving it around will only make it worse. It would be best to fix the existing HV pack or find a replacement pack. Of course there could be other problems, but you will first need to read the codes (DTCs).
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  3. Taylor Ebersole

    Taylor Ebersole New Member

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    You are right! As today the car stopped in a turning lane (empty thank god) and the car was on but wouldn't drive and the power button was orange and wouldn't turn the car off! long story short crawled through the back to unplug the battery and turn back on to at least get to work, retiring her after today till we get this fixed. Thank you so much! Do you by chance have a link for that adapter?
     
  4. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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  5. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Keep in mind, the problem w/ the bluetooth OBD2 readers is that they can NOT read all the error codes, and are unable to do maintenance procedures (bleed barkes, crank the engine, activate CHRS pump, etc).

    If you want to be able to read ALL codes and do maintenance, it is in your best interest to get "mini VCI" w/ Techstream from Amazon ($25+). You will get an imitation USB cable and a hacked copy of the Techstream software. BTW, Techstream is the official software made for Toyota/Lexus, and used at all the Toyota/Lexus dealers. Install is easiest on a 32bit OS Windows laptop. If you don't have one, ask friends/family if they know someone in IT. This person will likely have some laying around, and might be able to donate to you. Mac install possible, just search. This laptop should only be used for Toyota/Lexus diagnosis purposes. No email, banking, etc, out of security concern.

    You will probably have to replace a module or two; cheapest option, that is unreliable. It may last hours/days/weeks/months. A breakdown can occur at the most inopportune time/location. Lots of people advertise this service online.

    The most reliable repair option is replacing w/ NEW OEM ($1600+) or 2k1Toaster's cylindrical option ($1600). You say "I have nowhere near enough money for a whole new hybrid battery," but what prices were you told? Read Post #9 & #11, to get pricing ideas and where to start looking. Pricing was from Nov 2018, so prices may have gone up. Indianapolis area battery repair? | PriusChat

    Contact Todd at "TamapPrius.com". That is his member ID and his website address. Maybe he can help you out w/ recommendation or has better labor rates?

    Since you didn't buy a CarFax report, run you VIN on Track Your Service Records with Your Toyota Owners Account
    Most Toyota dealers report paid service to Toyota. All dealers report warranty work to Toyota. 150K miles for a 2006 seems way too low; someone could have installed a combo meter with a lower mileage.
     
    SFO likes this.
  6. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Since she just bought it in February someone probably did a cheap fix on the battery just to sell it.
     
  7. Taylor Ebersole

    Taylor Ebersole New Member

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    Thinking that's exactly what happened sadly!
     
  8. Kimberly19

    Kimberly19 Member

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    Same boat, same symptoms in my 2005 Prius with 174k miles. Loud vent, stopped accelerating, warning lights, the whole thing.
    Mileage seems low for this but it’s 14 years old.
     
  9. Taylor Ebersole

    Taylor Ebersole New Member

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    What have you done with the car may I ask? My car has sat since this forum is posted and I went to move it the other day about 10 ft and when it started up it sounded ROUGH like it wasn’t going to make it. Just curious what you did with yours and I recently found out I’m pregnant and REALLY need a car now!
     
  10. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    If you are comfortable working on cars, you may be able to temporarily repair this yourself.

    But it can be a very daunting task.

    Otherwise a mechanic will need to repair/replace it for you.

    A band aid fix would be replacing one failing module. (If that's the problem)

    A proper fix would be replacing the failed battery with a new one.
     
  11. Kimberly19

    Kimberly19 Member

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    I couldn’t drive it anymore so it was towed to my closest Toyota and I had a new battery installed for $2600 before taxes. It’s back on the road and running great now.
     
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  12. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    No battery lasts forever. Put things into perspective, most people are happy if they get at least ONE solid year out of their smart phone battery. Lucky if they get a second year. After that, many people have to always charge or use the external battery pack.
    You got 14 from the Prius battery.

    Operating costs for the battery is LOW!
    $2600/174k miles = $0.01494/mile
    $2600/14years = $185.71/year = $15.48/month = $0.52/day
    pricing at 10year longevity: $2600/10years = $260/year = $21.67/month = $0.72/day​
    If you are able to DIY, your operating costs would be even lower!

    With the NEW OEM HV Battery, you have bought yourself some options should an accident or cost prohibitive repair force early retirement.
    1) You can transfer this battery into another Gen2 Prius w/ a failed HV Battery.
    2) You can get a Gen3 with a bad HV Battery and transfer the moudules from your Gen2 into the Gen3 Prius HV Battery case.
    3) You could transfer the modules into certain Gen4 Prius HV Battery case; this sceanrio unlikely given the Gen4 Prius are young.
    4) Sell the battery.
     
  13. Kimberly19

    Kimberly19 Member

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    I’m going to buy a Prime 2020 and sell my car when I do, likely this year.
     
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  14. GBleezy

    GBleezy New Member

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    I am experiencing the same symptoms described in the original post:

    I'm thinking an ELM327 can monitor the Battey blocks/modules live right? I'm thinking that should save me the hassle of digging out the HVB case and trying to plot discharge curves using a headlight, a multimeter and a stop watch. And without a charger I'd probably try to recharge with the car some how and really get myself out there lol!

    Although I'm going to at least check for corrosion on Block 11 because DTC P3021 is the most consistent code thrown.
     
  15. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    An elm 327 can do it along with torque pro app.
     
  16. novaowner

    novaowner Junior Member

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    I encountered the same symptoms today. I have a 2007 Prius with 120,000 miles. The red triangle light, evc, check engine and yellow brake light. I also began hearing the whooshing sound from the vent in the back. The car traveled about 3 miles okay but after stopping at a light it would move but wouldn't accelerate. My old code reader flashed a P3000 code. I am not sure what this means. The Hybrid Warning Light appeared on the info screen.

    I don't believe I should drive the car to repair shop.

    Any additional advice would be helpful.
     
    #16 novaowner, Jun 20, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2019
  17. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    start by cleaning the cooling fan, and making sure the intake grille is clear.

    if you are going to diy, get tech stream, or at least torque pro and elm.

    it is likely you need a new battery or there is corrosion inside
     
  18. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Not that it helps you but you picked the right user name. Va means goes in Spanish so nova actually means No Goes in Spanish. And your car that you own seems to be no going.

    It’s kind of a Nova owners inside joke.
     
  19. novaowner

    novaowner Junior Member

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    Thanks the 12v battery was replaced 14 months ago.
     
  20. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Yes you have traction battery trouble. Search the site on what to do to fix it.

    Many options depending on your repair skill level.