Help: 2005 Prius MIL But no ODBII DTC

Is the 12V battery ok?

The freeze frame data for the DTC should be stored in memory, unless the 12V battery is problematic.

On your AutoEnginuity, if you retrieve All Codes, they should come up, even weird stuff like P0000. I have the Proline connector + Toyota package.

 

mileage?

 

Put it on a 2-4 Amp (preferably 2A) trickle charger overnight.

Thus, any service/repair that they suggest is plausible!

The water pump, if original, is reasonably at end of life. They tend to start weeping around the seal at 100K. The pump itself is, for once, pretty easy to remove, since there is not alternator, A/C, or power steering to get in the way. This is the time to do an entire coolant flush, including draining the coolant reservoir (thermos). See below.

I would leave the rear brakes until they are metal to metal. They provide almost no stopping power anyway.

On the front, what's wrong with compressing the piston to install new pads? And I wouldn't even bother getting the rotors turned, as new ones are dirt cheap. Try Conicelli (partznet.com) for factory Toyota parts, free shipping for orders over $100 and they sometimes run specials.

I took screen shots for brake and powertrain actuation commands. I verified that it is possible to activate the coolant reservoir pump. I also recommend an AirLift, as you might as well exchange the inverter cooling loop fluid while you are getting messy, and an AirLift is essential for that job. Why stop at just AutoEnginuity for tool purchase? Point out to your wife that the dealer wants $1,000 for everything, but you can do it all for half and you get new tools to play with!!! . It should be possible to follow the service manual for the brake bleeding, but I have not tried it. Hopefully, it will not be necessary for you.

AutoEnginuity brake actuation commands



AutoEnginuity powertrain commands (coolant reservoir pump actuation command highlighted)

 

The 2G inverter cooling system can be purged of air pretty easily, so if that is your only reason to buy an Airlift, I suggest that tool is unnecessary.

It is possible to remove the CHRS relay and short the switched terminals in order to run the CHRS pump manually, and I have posted on how to do that.

If you wish to replace the front brake pads yourself, I recommend that you disconnect the 12V battery prior to compressing the caliper pistons so that you do not induce DTC in the skid control ECU. Then there's no need to use diagnostic software to clear the skid control ECU of the logged codes. However if you plan to replace the brake fluid then the software would be useful.

 

No, the 2G engine coolant system is much more difficult due to the presence of the CHRS canister. I've posted in this forum my procedure to drain & replace engine coolant without having access to the Toyota diagnostic laptop (or equivalent). See my posts #22 and 42 here:
http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...shooting/30813-changing-engine-coolant-3.html

Bleeding the engine coolant system would benefit from a vacuum device, but that is not necessary if you are patient and willing to spend a couple of hours on the bleeding process. Good luck.

 

C'mon Patrick, the man wants to buy some tools!

The main issue with the ICE cooling system is the coolant heat storage tank (thermos). It is normally full when the car is off. Drain it, and you need some way to fill it back up. Patrick's method involves manually connecting the terminals to 12V. With the AutoEnginuity, it is a mouse-click.

AirLift is made by UView and is available on Amazon. Using compressed air and the Venturi effect, it creates a vacuum in the cooling loop. When you reach sufficient vacuum, you close off the valve, remove your air hose, and hook up a hose to your coolant jug. Open the valve, and watch your cooling system get filled, without any air pockets. The process literally takes 2-3 minutes on most cars. Of course, the cooling loop on a Gen II Prius is unlike any car and takes longer due to the thermos, but using the AirLift means you won't get stuck in the endless loop of steps k,l,m,n,o in the manual. I use my AirLift on every car that needs a coolant fill.

 

No problem, those who wish to buy those tools will do so. I'm just offering an alternative in case the OP and our other members wish to spend their discretionary funds in other areas. If one is not a professional mechanic and does not own multiple vehicles, then it may not be cost-effective to spend $$ on a tool used once every few years.

 

I agree, if you don't have an air compressor and/or are on a tight budget, then it is good to know that it is possible to drain/refill the engine coolant without using special tools.

I bought an AirLift ahead of replacing a failed IC pump after reading a post at Art's Automotive. This post also gives an overview of brake fluid exchange and brake system bleeding. Prius 30k Service