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Help. After body shop repair, engine will not stop idling and idles rough.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by sciencekit, Oct 10, 2012.

  1. sciencekit

    sciencekit Junior Member

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    Just picked up my 2004 Prius from the Toyota dealer body shop. The driver's side was scraped by someone who wanted to be in my lane. Fortunately, we were only going 35 mph. The rear door skin had to be replaced, and most of the side had to be prepped and painted. There are a few silly mistakes: they forgot to replace the driver's door plug, forgot to replace a lower clip, and smudged a tiny area new paint on the bumper. I brought that to their attention and they are going to take care of it... they have to order the plug and clip.

    However, as soon as that conversation was complete, it was time for them to close shop. I sat in my Prius, started it, and the check engine light was on. Wasn't on when I dropped it off for the repairs. Also, on the way home, I noticed the engine wasn't turning off when I came to a complete stop (even though the animation says it was off). At idle, the engine is also rough. Looked at the charge bars, and well, there were only two bars showing. I thought perhaps, though it's not done this before without the animation screen showing it, the engine was on merely to recharge the traction battery. On the way home, the traction battery returned to full charge (green), but the engine still was not turning off when the vehicle was at a complete stop... not was it turning off when coasting... and when arriving home, even with the car in park... and still idling rough. All the while, the animation on the screen is indicating the engine should be off.

    When I replaced the traction battery three years ago, I also replaced the 12v with an yellow top Optima. I wouldn't think the Optima is already going bad. I also do not believe in coincidence. I wonder if perhaps some bad fumes have tainted the MAF, or who knows.

    Any ideas after reading my rather lengthy post? :)
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Check the fuel filler cap to make sure it is tight, at least one click when rotating clockwise.

    If the CEL remains on then you should ask your dealer to read the DTC and figure out what the problem is. I doubt that the MAF sensor is the problem.
     
  3. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Bad MAF does not make engine run on. I bet the body dudes left the doors open or the hatch cracked and left light on and killed your Optima. And now iys good & sulphated.

    Get dc volt meter. After car has sat for a while without pushing the brake push start button once...then again. Thats 2 times. Now your in IGN. which puts a load on the Optima. Check the Optima battery voltage across the jump points under the hood and report that number back here.

    I'm thinkin' 11.6 Circling the bowl.
     
  4. sciencekit

    sciencekit Junior Member

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    On the way to the office this morning, and out for lunch, the engine began behaving normally, and turned off at stops and while in park.

    Fuel cap is tight... just for grins I turned it until it clicked twice more. CEL is still on.

    Placed car in IGN via instructions above, tested with the meter and the reading was 11.91 VDC. I would expect it to be upwards of 13.0 to 14.0 VDC. Did the shop kill my Optima 12V battery? If so, how do I handle that situation? I left a message for them yesterday evening once I was home. The shop manager called today, but I am waiting to return his call for an informed course of action.

    What I forgot to add above is I had to "reset" the windows when I first climbed in. Meaning the auto up/down function wouldn't work and I had to take the driver's window all the way down and back up for the auto function to work.
     
  5. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Yup your last paragraph says it all. The window functions you listed are whats required when the battery goes dead.
    They flattened it stone dead and then let it sit. Its done. Common story.

    To convince yourself how sulphated it is do my test first thing in the am before you start it. Then it will hit 11.6 or worse.

    My new Optima measures 12.7.
     
  6. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    While I agree totally with the above post the Optima is supposed to be able to cope with this situation being a deep cycle battery but it will not have done it any good. A good steady charge is in order to hopefully bring the voltage back up, something less than 10amps. The maximum Optima says is safe.

    A few start cycles may turn off the CEL but it would be good to have the code read to see to what it pertains.
     
  7. a priori

    a priori Canonus Curiosus

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    You guys are great. Thanks for providing timely and full responses.

    I'm hoping for the sake of the OP the Optima recoups its full abilities.
     
  8. sciencekit

    sciencekit Junior Member

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    Thanks guys. I hope the Optima does return to its normal range after a few starts, drives, etc.. After my last post, I also discovered my satellite radio presets were all reset to factory as well. My guess is that edthefox6 is correct, and they drained my battery, then had to jump/charge it. I am returning to the shop today to inquire when a few items will ship in (they forgot to install a clip, rubber plug in the end of the driver's door). Also, if there is something they can do for the smell. I've left the window down for over a day, and the chemical smell that has permeated the inside of the car still makes my nose burn.
     
  9. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    No, in Ig-on mode the DC-DC converter is off and the 12V battery is under some load, so 12.0 to 12.5 is more typical.

    The exact voltage you'll measure here will depend on how long your Prius has been sitting since it was last made ready. The longer you leave it (turned off before testing) then typically the lower this voltage measurement will be, stabilizing after about 3 to 6 hours. It definitely sounds like you battery was drained to fully flat at their workshop, however it seems that your battery is now starting to recover ok. At least the deep cycle optima battery should recover a lot better than the standard Prius battery would have done here.

    My guess is that the shop will say nothing happened, but we know it did.
     
  10. sciencekit

    sciencekit Junior Member

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    I spologise for the delay in responding again. Caught some sort of bug going around and have been down over the weekend. When I confronted the dealership, pointing out that I had to reset my window functions and my sat radio presets were wiped, he had no other option but to agree the battery must have been depleted while they were working on it. They ran a diagnostic, and the uploaded pdf shows the results: codes C2318 and P0505, plus other information. No work performed except resetting the check engine light.

    The car has been running fine and is back to its usual 53 mpg.
     

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