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HELP - HELP !!! 2001 Toyota prius - 60k miles - P3006, C1202, C1259 & C1213

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by am_prius, Sep 4, 2010.

  1. am_prius

    am_prius New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2010
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    Location:
    Kearney
    Vehicle:
    2001 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Hello,

    I own this car since 2006. Prior to that It was bought new by my Grandfather in 2001. Since last december, The car had the triangle of death as well as the check engine light.

    When the light came on, I took it to the Grand Island, NE toyota dealership. After more than a week they charged me $180 and told me that everything was fine. When I drove it home. The lights (Triangle and check engine) came back on. I returned the car right away, but before arriving at the dealership, the brake engine came on as well. After one more week, they told me that it needed a new ECU and REAR WHEEL HUB (Bearings). A month later and a tab of $1200 the issue was not solved. They then suggested that I needed a new battery pack (2600 + 480 installation)

    The current status ==> Car still drive for 10-15min before the brake light kicks in. I have the P3006 code. the batteries show a voltage around 17V (17.37 - 17.88) for all the 38 cells.

    Any options to repair my car under 1K. If not ANYbody interested in buying it as it is ???
     
  2. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2005
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    Location:
    Huntsville AL
    Vehicle:
    2018 Tesla Model 3
    Model:
    Prime Plus
    P3006 - uneven battery voltage. From Google, here is a good technical description:

    Predictive battery failure analysis for the Prius Hybrid

    How did you read these codes? The reason is we've found many over the counter, OBD scanners can induce false codes in the brake system. The work around is to make sure the scanner connects using ISO-9141, KWP2000, versus auto-detect or using a 'pig-tail' to allow only the NHW11 compatible signals.

    A lot of Prius symptoms go away with a new 12 V auxilary battery . . . just a thought.

    Also, need to make sure the DC-DC converter is working. With the car in "READY," it should be ~13.8 V.

    Bob Wilson