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Help, please, with rain barrel questions

Discussion in 'Environmental Discussion' started by SSimon, Apr 17, 2007.

  1. SSimon

    SSimon Active Member

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    After much research, I've opted to forgo installing a rain garden and instead equip all of my downspouts with rain barrels. This decision was predicated on the fact that I already have a huge section of my yard comprised of forb and grass communities and while they're drought tolerant, they are young enough to where I need to water them in when rain is lacking. If I installed a rain garden, I would be diverting this roof water and my sump pump out flow to yet another area with "wetter" plants. In the end, I figured - why construct yet another area in my yard where I have to worry about weeds and watering in the event that it doesn't rain. If anyone sees errors in my thinking, please point this out.

    I have a nice rain barrel in my garage for the past three years. I'll order two more if the first works out well. Here's my objective: I want to be able to harvest the water in the barrel to be utilized for future use should rain not occur and I have to water in my garden. My questions........

    1. I want to use some type of a hose attached to the spicket punched with holes or a soaker hose punched with holes. Is this feasible given that this water isn't under much pressure, or will the water just pool up in the hose making this ineffective? If you've implemented something like this, what type of a hose and what alterations have you implemented to ensure that as much water exits the hose as possible?

    2. Does it assist gravity to mount the barrel on cinder blocks?

    3. In sub freezing climates, is it necessary to bring the barrels in the garage and reconfigure one's downspouts? The manufacturer informed me that it's not, that the barrel will bulge but will retain it's normal shape when weather warms.

    The manufacturer presented a pretty dim picture for my objective of watering my garden. They basically said that because the water isn't under pressure, using an attached hose to water a garden won't be very effective. I'm looking for any pics, any experiences that you've had and any drawbacks I might not have considered. I want to cut my downspout this weekend, but want to be researched before doing this.

    Thanks a bunch guys.
     
  2. CMonster

    CMonster Member

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    I have one 50 gallon barrel which I mainly use for watering house plants and newly transplanted outdoor plants. We had one long dry spell last summer when I had to use it for watering my perennial bed and then I just let an open-ended hose flow in to the bed. Depending on your slope and soil type, that may not work for you.

    I haven't tried a soaker hose, but it should work - just very slowly, which is ideal for the plants anyway. The porous types of soaker hose would probably work better than the ones with individual pinholes spaced inches apart.

    It does assist gravity to mount the barrel higher. The higher you mount it and the lower downhill your garden is, the more pressure you'll have. Not enough to run a lawn sprinkler though.

    I don't do anything special to my barrel in the winter, but our temperature doesn't often stay below freezing for long. If the manufacturer says it's OK for it to freeze, I would trust them.

    Kudos for making the effort to use a valuable resource wisely. The plants seem to like the water better than city water too.
     
  3. SSimon

    SSimon Active Member

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    Thank you.

    I just remembered another question -

    Do I have to secure the rain barrel to the house so that it doesn't blow or tip in strong winds. This may be a problem when the barrel is empty.
     
  4. tripp

    tripp Which it's a 'ybrid, ain't it?

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    Good stuff. I've been thinking about adding a couple of barrels myself. CO can be pretty hot and dry in the summer, but often when we get rain, we get a lot in one go. It'd be nice to be able to keep some of that water for later use. I stored some in a kiddy pool for a bit, but mosquitoes started breeding in it so I had to dump it out.
     
  5. SSimon

    SSimon Active Member

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    http://www.sprucecreekrainsaver.com/

    This is the site where I ordered mine years ago. They have connectors that they sell, if you want to link two, three or more barrels together to capture overflow. Or, you can just put a sump pump hose attached to an overflow valve at the top of the barrel to redirect overflow into a garden.

    The top is fully enclosed with plastic except for a screened in area where the water enters. Supposedly, this inhibits mosquito egg laying. Also, it prohibits algae formation in the barrel and prohibits debris accumulation in the barrel.

    Their site says you need a 6o degree elbow and this isn't true. I called them when I couldn't locate this and they said any angle will do.
     
  6. Godiva

    Godiva AmeriKan Citizen

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    My parents have been doing this for years. They don't use a formal rain barrel. They use large trash cans. Then my mother dips her watering can in and hand waters. When it gets down low, they up end the barrel and pour. They use the water fast enough that there is no mosquito problem but I would make sure there is a secure cover and do something to keep the mosquitos in check.

    I think strapping it down is a good solution for many reasons. Not only wind but animals tipping it over. I'd also strap the lid down to make sure nothing falls in and drowns.

    I have no gutters on my house but I've considered adding them with a "rain chain" so I can collect the water.
     
  7. CMonster

    CMonster Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SSimon @ Apr 17 2007, 03:28 PM) [snapback]424850[/snapback]</div>
    Ooooh, yours is really pretty. Here's mine - it's very industrial looking. But your spigot is halfway up the barrel. How are you supposed to get the water out of the bottom?

    I haven't secured mine, but it couldn't hurt. I made sure the concrete blocks are level, and it's in a sheltered location, and it's almost never empty, plus the flexy downspout connector holds it in place a bit too.

    Even though the top is closed, there seemed to be a lot of mosquitos hovering around the barrel last summer, so I threw in a chunk of a mosquito dunk. They're available in local home improvement stores and garden centers.

    My neighbor has his washing machine drain hooked to a barrel in his garage which is a pretty cool idea too.
     
  8. chogan

    chogan New Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SSimon @ Apr 17 2007, 03:33 PM) [snapback]424806[/snapback]</div>
    I put in two rain barrels last year, that I made from 60 gallon polyethelene barrels from my local Pepsi plant. Almost had to put in rain barrels, as our town converted from chlorine to chloramine for the drinking water and chloramine kills some of our plants.

    I'm still working out the kinks but these are my observations for what they are worth.

    Yes, get them a bit off the ground, just to make it easier for you. Higher gives you more water pressure.
    But don't fool yourself into thinking that if you set them high enough you'll get good water pressure. Every foot of water height gives you about 0.5 PSI (pounds per square inch). Typical water pressure in the house might be 45 PSI. So your barrel would have to be 90 feet in the air to give you that kind of pressure. That's easy enough to see -- just take your house-connected water hose and squirt it upward -- the peak of the arc is how high your water barrel would have to be to generate your house's water pressure, more or less.

    So as far as I can tell, the cinder blocks are just for your convenience, so that you can get all the water out of the barrel, and so the water will flow fast enough as you get near the bottom of the barrel. As stated above, you're never going to run a sprinkler off this.

    We fill watering cans from a short length of hose, but every site I looked at said that a standard soaker hose would work -- it just takes a really long time -- like a day -- to empty a 55 gallon water barrel through 100' of soaker hose. That makes sense to me but I haven't tried it.

    What is pretty clear based on calculation is that if you run the water through any significant length of hose, you'll get a really, really slow flow. That may be what your manufacturer was talking about, regarding watering your garden with a hose. Unless your barrel is way uphill of your garden, the frictional losses in (say) 50 ft of hose mean that you'll only get a trickle out the other end. Can't say I've verified that, but I'd bet a fair bit of money on it. So it's not that you can't water your garden from a hose, is that it would take you all day.

    So, we fill watering cans from a short length of hose and water by hand.

    I set my barrels up to be taken down in the winter, for a lot of reasons. Not just that the barrels might crack , but also that if they froze it would plug the downspout. So I set this up by taking about a foot out of the downspout to connect the input and overflow of the barrel, and just put a piece of flexible downspout in that foot gap over the winter.

    I'm not entirely happy with my setup, mostly because the barrels collect a lot of debris (leaves, pine needles) over the course of the summer. They still work OK, it's just a mess to clean out at the end of the year.

    My only other comment is that you can't have too many. If it rains a lot, you don't need them. If it rains infrequently, you need a LOT of them to hold enough water to get you throught the dry periods. I'm going to put in another couple of barrels this year.
     
  9. SSimon

    SSimon Active Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(CMonster @ Apr 18 2007, 07:59 AM) [snapback]425237[/snapback]</div>
    Isn't it, though... :D hee hee

    There are two holes in the front of the barrel. Last year I think I moved the spigot (I see I spelled this wrong earlier) down to the bottom hole. There's a plug type thingy I switched to the top hole. I haven't looked at the barrel for a year, and my memory is a little fuzzy on this. I'll get a good look at it this weekend as I'm surely installing it after all of your helpful replies. I was veeeeery nervous about setting it up and then not having it function as I require.

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(chogan @ Apr 18 2007, 08:14 AM) [snapback]425244[/snapback]</div>
    I don't care if it takes a day, so long as all the water gets to where I want it to go. I'm going to buy soaker hoses and drill little sporadic holes near the barrel and larger more frequent holes towards the end. I'll let you guys know how this works out in case you're interested in this. If it works out well, I'm getting at least three more barrels for all downspouts. I would even consider connecting multiple barrels together with attachments.

    Chogan, I'm sure you know about this but if not, try putting window screen over your barrel opening and it'll cut down on mosquito egg laying and debris collection. My barrel comes with this but I'm concerned as I don't remember if there's a way to get this off of the barrel to clean out the debris that does collect.
     
  10. Skwyre7

    Skwyre7 What's the catch?

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    I don't know if this would be of any help, but I've seen solar powered water pumps for use in ponds. Perhaps one of those could be of use if the water pressure from gravity is too weak. You could even add one in the rain barrel to cut down on mosquitoes.
     
  11. chogan

    chogan New Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SSimon @ Apr 18 2007, 11:06 AM) [snapback]425346[/snapback]</div>
    Well, I did that with no success, but that's a side-effect of the way I set mine up. I hooked my barrels up with plumbing, so its a closed system from the gutter on down. I put in a fitting with a screen to catch debris, and ended up with (choose one) 1) clogged plumbing and overflowing gutters or 2) yet another household item that I need to maintain. So I took the screens out and haven't figured out any alternative to cleaning out the barrels at the end of the season.

    On mosquitoes, the rain barrels had an unexpected benefit. We have no standing water in our yard but tons of those asian tiger mosquitoes. Could not figure out where they were coming from. I put the barrels in temporarily, last spring (before the mosquitoes were out) and within a week we had a jillion mosquito larvae. Seems they were laying their eggs in the trash in the house gutters. The solid-surface gutter guards (caps) did an excellent job of ensuring that the debris in the gutters did not dry out. So, I got rid of my solid-surface gutter caps, cleaned out the gutters, and got a greatly reduced mosquito population -- and no more larvae in the water barrels.
     
  12. SSimon

    SSimon Active Member

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    Maybe you'll have to invest in rain barrels equipped to catch the debris, but away from the screen itself. The lid in my barrel is slanted away from the screen and has a lip on it, so the debris will slope down but be caught by this lip. I don't know if you'd be able to use this with your closed system, however. I'm going to be taking pictures of the install and I'll make sure to include a picture of the top of the barrel in case you're interested.
     
  13. ilusnforc

    ilusnforc Member

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    I built a small pond in the back yard that came with a reasonably powerful pump... but it wore out after a while, so we were looking for a new pump and ended up getting a slightly smaller one from a pond store (about $60) but it just couldn't match the power of the original pump by a long shot. So searching by the part numbers on the original pump I managed to track it down on the internet and got a replacement for about $70! Only $10 more than the wimpy one. It was dead on arrival though, so I had to contact the manufacturer and they sent another new one that did work, and I was able to use the parts from the not working new one to fix the original one. Anyway, I noticed that the slightest bit of pressure applied to the end of a hose attached to the smaller pump and it basically quit pumping (placing thumb over end to spray) because of the centrifugal design of the pump it really can't handle any pressure at all. Once something blocks the flow, water just spins around with the motor and doesn't go anywhere so I think if you use any centrifugal pond type pump you might only be able to use a plain open end hose and let the water run. Any sort of constriction might severly limit the flow however I didn't try that on the larger pump. If you're interested in using a pump I can look up where we found our replacement.
     
  14. SSimon

    SSimon Active Member

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    To those of you interested in irrigation mechanisms with regards to rain barrels, soaker hoses can be a solution. Initially, I had tried to irrigate with an unmodified soaker hose and this just didn't work. The water would drain from the barrel to fill the hose but due to the lack of pressure, the water just sat there. I went to the hardware store and purchased the two smallest drill bits available. I then drilled holes about 5 inches apart along the length of the soaker hose. These holes were sufficient enough for the water to drain through. Because the smallest drill bit didn't seem large enough to allow water to escape, I used the second smallest drill bit and I think the holes are actually too large. The water streams out of these holes very readily. Because I appreciate very slow irrigation, I'm going to use the smallest drill bit on another hose and see if that works better.

    All in all, I love the barrels. They're so convenient as I no longer have to drag a hose to the other side of the house and mess with the sprinkler to try to get the right pressure and placement.

    Also, our crawl has leaks and since I've set these up, our sump pump hose runs significantly less.

    I haven't had a chance to take and post pictures, but I will in case anyone is interested in the barrels that I purchased.

    The best part is that my neighbor has said that I'm inspiring her to be more green and that she wants some. She's talking w/ her husband. He's constantly poking jabs at me so I'm not sure how far she'll get with a "yes", but it's promising to see how receptive some people are to these types of solutions.
     
  15. CMonster

    CMonster Member

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    Good work! With the soaker hose and the neighbor. :)
     
  16. ilusnforc

    ilusnforc Member

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  17. SSimon

    SSimon Active Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ilusnforc @ May 22 2007, 12:46 PM) [snapback]447404[/snapback]</div>
    I can't see pictures on my work screen so easily. My screen is too dark, unfortunately. What I can see in these pics is a screen that fits the entire top part of the barrel. This looks like a nice feature. I would just make sure that they fit securely to the barrel and cant' be blown off by wind or easily removed by a critte. Since I can't make out the rest of the barrel, I'll just comment on what I've read are necessities in proper rain barrel selection.

    The barrel should be opaque so that no, or minimal, light enters the barrel. This prevents algae growth. In operating my barrels, I've thought that a nice feature would be to have a see through stripe down the entire barrel so that I'm able to see how much water is left in the barrel. My barrels are completely opaque and don't have this, but I would really like this feature.

    The barrel should have a very secure screen on the top to prevent mosquito egg laying and also to prevent critters from entering the barrel. My barrel has two screen, one on top of the other. The first screen is a like a window screen and the second is a wider holed, more firm screen that's screwed over the first.

    I've found a useful feature on my barrel to be that there are two spots for the spigot, one higher and one lower. If I didn't raise the barrels on cinder blocks as I did, I could have the spigot higher so that I can have enough room to place a bucket under the spigot. Since I've raised the barrels, I moved the spigot down lower so that I can draw more water out of the barrel. Maybe you'd find this feature to be useful too.

    Lastly, make sure that there's an overflow valve so that if the barrel fills to the top, the water doesn't just spill out of the top of the barrel. The ones that I purchased have an overfill that can be fitted with a typical sump pump hose. I drilled sporadic holes in this so that over flow also gets directed to my garden.

    Then, you should check on capacity of the barrels to ensure that you're purchasing the quantity that'll fulfill your needs. Here's the formula for the roof water run off volume per your roof area.......multiply roof area by 623 and divide by 1,000. This will provide you with the number of gallons that leaves your roof during a one inch rain fall.

    I was frightened by the installation, but really it wasn't too difficult. I used a hack saw on the gutter. Once that was off, I removed the old elbow and just slipped it over the new cut. This proved to be the most difficult task as it didn't really just "slip" over the new cut. I had to fight with it and ultimately called on my husband to help me pry it over. Other than that, the install is a breeze.

    If you have any other questions, let me know.

    I should ad that Spruce Creek said that if the barrels aren't disconnected in the winter, they'll bulge and then retain their normal shape in the warmer climate. This would probably shorten the life span of the barrel, so I'm going to opt to put a tarp over the barrel in the winter and just let the roof run off spill over this. Not sure if this is a wise idea, but I'll let y'all know in next Spring.
     
  18. tripp

    tripp Which it's a 'ybrid, ain't it?

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    You could rig up a manometer which would measure the water level in the barrel. It'd take a little work, but would work quite well and it wouldn't let light into the barrel. Of course, you'd probably want to keep light out of the manometer but you could probably rig up something to keep algae from growing in there too.
     
  19. SSimon

    SSimon Active Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tripp @ May 22 2007, 02:33 PM) [snapback]447475[/snapback]</div>
    Never heard of this contraption. Awesome. I'll check it out. I reeeeeeeally want a measuring mechanism as the areas I'm irrigating don't require 60 gallons of water. I'd like to have each barrel irrigate two separate smaller garden patches and there's not way to do this without getting an idea of water volume. Thanks!
     
  20. tripp

    tripp Which it's a 'ybrid, ain't it?

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    Manometers are simple pressure measuring devices. In a simple water barrel scenario one would measure the height of the water in the barrel.

    Here's a simple (and quite terrible) rendering:

    [attachmentid=8251]

    You want the tube of the manometer to be wide enough that capillary action in the tube is negligible. A tube with a diameter of 1cm would probably be fine. Then you'd need to cut a small hole in the side and bottom of the barrel and fit the tube through. Obviously you'll need to seal it up well to prevent leaking.

    Another approach could be to lower a broken circuit down into the barrel. When the ciruit is completed by the water, however far down you had to lower it is the depth of the water surface below the top of the barrel. There are probably loads of other simple/cheap ways to do this.
     

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