1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Help with Dr. Prius battery monitor readings

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Deege79, Feb 2, 2021.

  1. Deege79

    Deege79 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2021
    2
    0
    0
    Location:
    Lebanon, OH
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Hello all. I am a new Prius owner and recently downloaded Dr. Prius to check the traction battery health. What are the ranges I should be seeing for the 14 modules? The resistance levels? If anybody could assist with what normal ranges should be for these settings, that's be great.

    Just an FYI, I have been reading for over an hour and have yet to find anything. If there is a thread somewhere on this, kindly link and I'll take any harsh comments in stride :)
     
  2. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2009
    1,132
    507
    0
    Location:
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Base
  3. Deege79

    Deege79 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2021
    2
    0
    0
    Location:
    Lebanon, OH
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Thank you for the link. I have read through each thread and the documentation for Dr Prius and cannot find what acceptable ranges for the readings should be. I suppose I shall spend some more time on Google. Thank you again.
     
  4. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2020
    3,242
    1,352
    0
    Location:
    NJ-USA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    Hello and welcome to PriusChat. Dr Prius is a great app for monitoring data from the High Voltage battery ecu. The battery pack is made up of 14 blocks, with each block having 2 modules. So there are 28 modules total, in series. Each sealed module consists of 6 Nimh cells (x 1.2V each), for a total nominal voltage of 201.6V. Dr Prius shows you the voltages for each of the blocks, which can vary from 12.5V to 19.0V- it all depends on the battery condition, present State Of Charge (SOC), how many amps are charging or discharging. The important thing is how even the blocks are with each other. Ideally all should always be within 0.3V of each other. If that difference exceeds 0.3V for any duration, it will reflect that by increasing the Delta SOC - this normally stays at 0%. As the battery deteriorates and blocks voltages vary more for longer then the Delta SOC goes up- I believe it will set a failure code at 30 or 40%?

    There is the SOC, which varies from 40% (1 bar on the gauge) to 80% (8 bars). The ecu tries to keep it around 60-70% during driving. If you sit in traffic with the A/C on, it will let it go down to 40%, then start the Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) to charge it up to 45-50%

    The block resistance values are typically 20-30 milliohms, and will vary depending on battery SOC, condition, and temperature. I only notice that whatever they are, it is usually even within 3 milliohms or so.

    If you have the paid upgrade on the app, you can perform the battery "life expectancy test" which is really a battery capacity test. You "force charge" the HV battery to full and then turn on electrical loads to discharge at around 6 amps until the ecu wants to recharge. (the only way I have found to accomplish this requires that the A/C system functions, otherwise the app will throw an error because there isn't enough load). Anyway the app monitors the pack voltage and amps over time, then does the math to figure out the total power used and gives you an approximate capacity.

    One the great features of this app is the ability to read and clear codes from several of the car's computer modules (I believe that is under Special Features).
     
    sasmyth and tangerino like this.
  5. ther67m84

    ther67m84 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2020
    6
    3
    0
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Totally true, I am getting the last miles out of my HV battery as about once a week (in hot weather mostly) it will throw a "Check Hybrid System" error, so i reset it with dr Prius, reboot (restart) the car and i'm on my way again.
    I plan on doing this till the errors are regular enough to not recover after clearing the codes. If your not in the position to shell out for a brand new HV battery this can be a lifesaver!
     
    tangerino likes this.
  6. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    571
    234
    0
    Location:
    australia
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    One
    driving on bad battery can fry transmission

    It's like I can keep driving really low on oil, it might spin a crank bearing but hopefully not

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  7. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2020
    3,242
    1,352
    0
    Location:
    NJ-USA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    You can keep resetting the ecu as long as you are OK with the eventual fact that it will stop working completely at some point and strand you, and some people have had modules "explode" with a bang.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  8. sasmyth

    sasmyth New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2023
    3
    0
    0
    Location:
    otowi, nm
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Great summary. I'm new to Prius, this forum and Dr. Prius App but a bit of a veteran with Hybrid/EV and this was a very clear/comprehensive description I hadn't found elsewhere. Thanks!
     
  9. sasmyth

    sasmyth New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2023
    3
    0
    0
    Location:
    otowi, nm
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    I haven't been "resetting" (yet) and do intend to replace my pack "soon" but have felt that the high-rev/loading of the engine (through the CVT) seems ultimately unhealthy for the drive-train. I ran my 01 Insight with a weak pack often and for a long time and it (seemed to) take it well (cars these days are nicely over-engineered?)...

    Any advice on how to be (most) gentle with the engine/transmission until I can get full E-boost back?