Hi all..

There is a specific MAF cleaner which is not supposed to leave behind any deposits when it evaporates. The deposits are what you want to avoid. I don't think there are any materials that make up the temperature thermistor and hot wire assembly of a MAF unit that could be dissolved or abraded by other types of cleaners, but better safe than sorry.

 

+1

I use fiber optic cleaner myself, but then again I'm in telecommunications and we literally have gallons of the stuff laying around.

I would NOT use break cleaner.
No. It should not destroy the sensor but I'm using 'sensor' and 'brake fluid' generically, and while there are lots of YouTube PHDs out there doing stuff to their cars, I don't always use that as proof that it's wise.

In your case, I'd get a specific MAFS cleaner on the cheap and keep it handy for about the next 10-20 years.
CRC Industries 05110 Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner - Wt. 11 oz. - Walmart.com

The above info is for price comparison only since I understand fully that nobody in your area shops in the WalMart....

 

That's what you do in a herd....

 

I'd second the above comments, use the right cleaner. What miles are on the car, and is there something that lead you to consider cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor?

I have cleaned ours, at around 75,000 kms, but: it looked completely pristine, brand-new. Have you looked at it yet? If it's clean I'd be inclined to just leave it.

Now the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, that's another story. It's below the throttle body, plugged into the side of the intake manifold, still not that difficult to access once you remove the air filter housing. If you've not looked at the intake manifold before, it's likely to contain a pool of oil, coming from the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve and hose (just above and back of the MAF sensor), and the MAF sensor is likely oil-soaked.

Now whether this matters I don't know. It's very common condition for the bottom of the intake manifold to be awash in oil, unless you clean it and install an Oil Catch Can. Even then an oil sheen will return, much less, but enough to make the MAP sensor oily once again. Again, don't know if this effects the MAP sensor's operation, but if I have it off and it's oil, I'll give it a shot of the MAF sensor cleaner spray.

Be very careful with MAF and MAP sensors, they're both very expensive to replace. The MAP sensor by far looks the most durable/sturdy of the two, looks like a little resistor, in a rudimentary cage.The MAF sensor in comparison looks very fragile, has a wrap-around protective housing. Both are around $200 US (or more) to replace.

 

Use the correct tool for the job.
Use the correct cleaner for the job.

 

And make sure there's a need to do the job?

 

If it doesn't say MAF sensor cleaner I would use it only if you're desperate, AND the sensor is obviously dirty. As a "fishing expedition", in the hopes that it might help: wait till you have the right stuff.

I would suggest to clean the Exhaust Gas Recirulation circuit also. It connects to the exhaust manifold, runs down the left side of the engine, connects via a short stainless steel pipe to the left side of the intake manifold. From there, exhaust gasses continue through a chamber in the intake manifold, and down smaller diameter passages to the four intake ports. Any and all points along that route tend to clog with carbon:

There's a video by @NutzAboutBolts here, video #17:

Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

And this thread also, started by @Rebound is a must read:

EGR & Intake Manifold Clean Results | PriusChat

I would recommend to drain 2 liters of coolant at the radiator drain spigot, at the outset. This will negate the need to clamp hoses, which isn't very effective anyway, since the (coolant filled) EGR cooler is mostly above those hoses.

Also, if you're doing a throttle body removal for any purpose, it can be lifted off and out of the way without removal of any of it's coolant hoses.

For EGR cooler you will need specialty socket E8, for removal of studs. Similarly, if you want to remove throttle body studs, it's E6 size.

The attachments have some Repair Manual info, torque values. At least a 3/8" drive torque wrench, or better a 1/4" torque wrench, will be optimum for getting the torque values. And drive adapter set, say to drive 3/8" sockets with 1/4" drive, is handy. Also: you cannot have enough wrenches, extensions, wobble-joints, offset and long-reach pliers, you name it. The video will help you understand the scope immeasurably.

 

Cleaning the maf is always a bad ideea.

At most use air compressor to dust it off