How can I use my Dryer Plug?

I’d suggest buying a different charger that is listed by UL, CSA, or another nationally recognized testing laboratory. The seller of the charger you linked, Electric Vehicle Institute (which despite the name appears to be a for-profit company), says on their website that the product is “CE Certified.” The CE mark means the manufacturer has declared that the product conforms to European requirements; such a self-certification is not evidence that the product has been independently evaluated for safety, nor is it a substitute for the listing required by California Electrical Code section 625.5.

Indeed, I’d be surprised if the product could get a listing without changes to its design, since it has a locking (L6-20P) plug on the molded cord. California didn’t adopt the requirement, but in many jurisdictions, National Electrical Code section 625.44 permits only nonlocking (straight-blade) receptacle outlets for EV charging.

If it were my home, I’d change the receptacle outlet. The receptacle in your photo looks fairly old, and for a relatively high-current connection that will be used regularly and without continuous supervision, it’s better to be sure that the receptacle will make good contact with the plug. If you have an electrician replace it, he or she could also inspect the branch circuit wiring and circuit breaker, to be sure they’re suitable and in good condition.

 

It looks like your EVSE plugs into a standard 120V 15A outlet (NEMA 5-15R). Replacing the 240V outlet (NEMA 10-30R) you have with a (NEMA 5-15R) would be a dangerous code violation. But, after looking at the pictures in the Amazon ad, I see that that is already an adapter. Probably not the best thing to have two adapters handling that much current.

I got this one. It already has the 10-30P plug to fit your receptacle. I keep the original L1 EVSE in the car for travel and keep the L2 at home ready for quick use.

Very good advice!!

 

I agree with Elektroingenieur's assertion that UL certification is important. Underwriters' Laboratory is the authoritative certification that virtually all insurance companies recognize as demonstrating that a particular piece of electrical equipment does not pose a fire or safety risk.

The L6-20P plug, however, is not used to connect the device to the outlet. It mates with a female L6-20R on one of two supplied short cords: one with a standard 5-15P 120-volt plug; and the other with a common 14-50P 240-volt plug (as shown in the dlgate's photograph.)

I agree with Elektroingenieur: If you're not using this old-style 240-volt receptacle for your clothes dryer, it would be better to change the receptacle to a conventional 14-50R to match the 240-volt plug on the EVSE unit. The alternative would be to make a custom adapter cord to go from the EVSE's twist-lock plug to the obsolete NEMA 10-30 which shown in dlegate's photo -- something which probably would cost more in parts than just changing the outlet receptacle.

A new receptacle is not an expensive part and having a qualified electrician check out the condition of the wiring and related circuit breaker would be a worthwhile expenditure. Also, the existing receptacle suggests that this may be a 30-amp circuit, which is more than enough to service the Prime which draws about 15-amps at 240-volts. There is no problem with installing the higher rated 14-50R outlet, but the wire size will still dictate the maximum size circuit breaker than can be used safely. Your electrician will be able to advise you.

 

ClipperCreek has the following warning about Dryer Plug

ClipperCreek does not manufacture any electric vehicle charging stations with the NEMA 10-30 plug as the corresponding receptacle (outlet) for this plug type is typically wired with a neutral wire as opposed to an earth ground and all of our models require an earth ground connection in order to operate properly. Additionally, when charging an electric vehicle the ground is passed through to the vehicle from the station for safety earth grounding during charging. If a neutral is used instead of a ground the neutral could generate a charge on the vehicle chassis, creating a potential safety hazard upon contact with the vehicle during or after charging. For these safety reasons we do not offer an EVSE with the NEMA 10-30 plug and it would not be advised to utilize any of our EVSEs with a NEMA 10-30 adapter.

If you have a NEMA 10-30 receptacle you would like to use for a ClipperCreek EVSE it would be recommended to have an electrician re-purpose the NEMA 10-30 receptacle into a NEMA 14-30 or a NEMA L6-30 receptacle.

 

This is a very wise observation. It is important that your EVSE has a ground so that there is no risk of your car having an electrical differential between it and ground. That potentially would be dangerous if you were to contact your car while standing on a damp or otherwise conductive ground surface. (You should take good care of your Prime, but not to the extent of discharging any stray voltage!)

Thanks, PCPrime, for posting this!

 

I have had this one running off a my dryer plug. No issues.
NEMA10-30
zencar
Zencar Level 2 EV Charger(240V, 16A, 25ft), Portable EVSE Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station Compatible with Chevy Volt, Nissan Leaf, Fiat, Ford Fusion(NEMA 10-30 plug)

 

The 'native' plug on that EVSE is a L6-20, the 14-50 plug you show is on an adapter.
I would buy a L6-20 receptacle if it were me, or hire an electrician to install one.

amazon.com/Leviton-2320-Receptacle-Grounding-Industrial/dp/B00002NAT0

 

The L6-20 plug on the end of the cord is specifically intended to connect to various short adapter cables which, in turn, plug into the premises wiring. The L6-20 is a twist-lock connector which prevents the cord from inadvertently separating from the adapter.

The use of a twist-lock connector to plug-in a portable EVSE unit directly into the house's premises wiring is not permitted under the National Electrical Code:

625.44(A) Portable Equipment. Portable equipment shall be connected to the premises wiring systems by one or more of the following methods:

(1) A nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire grounding-type receptacle outlet rated at 125 volts, single phase, 15 or 20 amperes

(2) A nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire grounding-type receptacle outlet rated at 250 volts, single phase, 15 or 20 amperes

(3) A nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire or 3-pole, 4-wire grounding-type receptacle outlet rated at 250 volts, single phase, 30 or 50 amperes

(4) A nonlocking, 2-pole, 3-wire grounding-type receptacle outlet rated at 60 volts dc maximum, 15 or 20 amperes
​

The concern voiced by PCPrime, in post #6 above, is that the clothes-dryer style type 10-30R outlet's 3-prong configuration is probably wired with its third prong as current neutral (white) rather than safety protective ground (green). There is an explanation here: NEMA connector - Wikipedia

EVSE hardware has its own ground fault protection built into it. Hence, the risk from the vehicle not having a protective ground is somewhat mitigated. However, the risk from the EVSE is not.

Good practice dictates that there should be a single continuous protective ground between the vehicle, the EVSE and the house's premises wiring. This is both appropriate and highly desirable.



Of course, using a dryer outlet may be convenient and can be made to work, even if it's not the best solution.

 

I guess that explains why my Chargepoint Home charging station has a NEMA 6-50 plug. This is a hot-hot-ground plug, which satisfies case 3 of the above quoted standard.