How to tell if regenerative braking is working?

That doesn't sound like a problem with regen, specifically, but something wasn't quite right.

Regen braking only operates above 7 mph, and I don't believe it works in reverse. Only wheel brakes should be at play.

My Dad had something happen once with his '07. Backing out of the garage, the brakes kind of chattered and some indicator lights came on. It never happened again though. I wonder if it was a freak sensor misreading or similar.

 

I don't have that much in-depth automotive smarts, even less regarding second gen matters, but:

Your seat-of-pants impressions, coupled with codes, coupled with zero from the dealership's service department: I'd try a second dealer if possible. Or step one, let dealer #1 know your thoughts, maybe it'll wake them up.

I can recall having a cracked rotor. The car felt like it had a broken back every time you touched the brakes, and I pulled the wheel that the sound was apparently coming from and SAW the crack.

Took it in and they called back a half hour later, said there was no problem. I went kinda ballistic.

 

No, this isn't a regen problem. It is a more fundamental problem in the friction braking system. Those dashboard lights should be a very important clue.

Has it happened more than once? There have been scattered reports of this happening over the years, without dashboard lights, but no critical mass to track down a specific problem. My 2010 did it twice (not in Reverse), my 2012 not yet. I have thoughts of the power assist system momentarily cutting out, without leaving any codes or clues. Note that if this is the case, federal passenger car braking regulations require that the underlying hydraulic system should still work, but will feel like old fashioned manual brakes requiring your full body weight on the pedal. And so far, that appears to be true.

But your dashboard lights must mean that the car actually detected something wrong. Get a second opinion.

 

test your 12 volt battery.

 

Here is how on a Gen2, if you don't have your own voltmeter:
Weird stuff happening? MPGs dropping? Test The Battery

 

thanks.

 

Digital voltmeter likely more bullet proof tho. When I see postings of all the dash displayed voltages I glaze over; with the car shut down, measured with voltmeter, less ambiguity.

 

Has your 2005 with only 38k miles ever been in an accident? There may be a slow leak in the braking system and while you let it sit for 2 weeks, the pressure leaked out. When you started driving and pumped your brakes a few times, it all went back to normal. Sounds like a brake master cylinder problem.

 

[QUOTE="fuzzy1, post: 2163723, member: 48224"But your dashboard lights must mean that the car actually detected something wrong. Get a second opinion.[/QUOTE]

+100.

There are diagnostic codes to read if those lights are on. If the dealer found none, have them figure out how they managed that, or have somebody else figure out how they managed that. You could even read the codes yourself, using either a Mini VCI sort of tool, or a jumper wire and counting blinkenlights - apparently that method is still supported in Gens 2 and 3, details in the service manual.

Then you could post the codes here and get some information on what problems they indicate.

The idea that a flakey 12 volt battery can be behind every possible diagnostic code has really taken on a life of its own around here ... it might even be the explanation in some cases, but it doesn't make much sense to start going there before even reading the codes and checking whether they don't mean exactly what they say they do!

-Chap

 

might be a problem for me.