HV battery inactive cooling fan fix

Nice. Did you seal the tiny cracks in the body at the top corners of the tailgate opening that caused the corrosion in the first place?

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Pretty common. You have a leak in the hatch corner like all g2s.
Rains…..water leaks into the cabin and tends to drip on that connector corroding it.
Now for more fun check out the goldfish pond your 12 volt battery is sitting in cause that’s where all that dripping pools. Take the 12 out drain the hole by pulling out its drain plug. Water under the spare tire too.

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hatch leak

 

Yes I have all those drain plugs out and laying in their respected holes just in case somebody might want to put them back in but I haven't had the corner of the hatch leak yet I do keep it brushed off and blow it off with the hose often make sure there's no leaves and garbage up in there broken twigs stuff that can't get past the strut mounts and what have you keep it whistle clean if possible don't park under trees easier said than done

SM-A715F ?

 

When I rebuilt my 2005's traction battery last year, I had the same problem with the same Molex connector. On my U.S. model, this connector is positioned adjacent to the battery fan and actually attached to the fan bracket. I've seen a number of photos showing what appears to be this same connector--with the same two corroded terminals--on the opposite (passenger) side in UK versions of the Gen 2 Prius.

My car has the usual leak, which allowed water to collect in the bottom of the 12V battery well until I opened up the drain hole, but I don't think moisture is the problem with this connector. Neither my connector nor any of the surrounding surfaces show any discoloration, rust, corrosion, or other signs of water incursion--just those two ugly terminals for the coil side of the fan relay. I suspect that Toyota simply undersized these wires & connector contacts for the repeated current surge they endure every time the relay is energized, eventually burning out the wires/pins inside the Molex connector. When this happens, the relay no longer operates, the fan never comes on, and the battery overheats. In my case, this resulted in the red triangle of death (P0A80) and a completely failed, non-chargeable module.

Along with replacing that module and a couple of weak ones, I bypassed the relay connection with a heavier-gauge version and the car is still running strong after 16 months and 5000+ miles. Hope this helps.

 

I'm not sure one way or the other, but I'd be inclined to not override the car's computers, think I know better when the fan should be running, and how fast.