Hybrid Batt: I replaced bad mod twice & still getting warning lights?

The other identical thread has been reported so the moderator can remove it. So this is the real one.

Not being a fan of individual replacements, and therefore not very experienced, what I do know is that you can't expect very good results unless you balance the battery after replacing part of it. And keep in mind that the modules you don't replace are just as old as the one(s) you do replace and will probably fail soon as well.

Others will hopefully be here soon with more detailed informtation.

 

Have you asked the car yet why the lights are on? The diagnostic codes help a lot. If you haven't, it's anybody's guess whether it's even about the battery.

 

The Dr. Prius app can read any codes you might have.

Some comments on your Dr. Prius images:

• They show IR of 19 mΩ which are the default values and of no help until they recalculate to the actual values.
• Both your charge and discharge currents are quite low with the maximum being a charging current of 6.65 V.
• The graphing on Dr. Prius is terrible and grossly exaggerates (visually) the extent of the imbalance between modules.
• A module in block #7 still is a problem.

You mentioned "stress test", does this mean force charging and then holding the car in reverse with the parking brake fully set (discharging)?

It is not really a matter of "good" or "bad". It really (really) matters how the replacement module matches the other 27 modules. This is in fact the hardest part of what you are attempting to do. You can get a relative comparison of all the modules by doing a load test on each one.

You probably need to recondition all the modules and then reevaluate how well they match if you really want the best chance of success. Bear in mind that even the most perfect job you do will only give you an 18-24 months extension at best.

Start planning to replace all the modules with either a set of new ones or a relatively new (i. e. < 5 yo) set from a recent wreck.

 

Voltage on the block is nice but what’s happening here is that battery will not supply rated current. Soon as you put a load on the soft modules it will tank the ecu sees that and says nope.
The modules you are buying are of the same vintage you have maybe older these are not new modules and have probably been fluffed up so they last
A little while. It’s a real crap game and module testing on your end is useless without a load test.

you are deep into the whack a mole.

 

or just replacing the wrong module....

How are you counting blocks? Where is block 1?

Or maybe Block 6 is pretty sketchy also? 18.16 volts?

 

Diagnostic codes are five-character symbols; they look like P0A80, for example.

On PriusChat, we can usually help more when the post says what the actual codes are from the car, rather than a paraphrase.

 

Theirs hundreds of posts about battery re builder setups please use the search forums link up top and search

hybrid battery

 

Or maybe Block 6 is pretty sketchy also? 18.16 volts?

Slowly leading the horse to the water pond............

 

"Not super technical" + HV battery = paying some one else to fix your car. Sorry but no way around that. Just replacing a module or two almost never works. Either educate yourself about the whole DIY process (which will take weeks to perform and might get you a year or two if it works well), or purchase a complete pack and install it.

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