Inverter coolant breather valve super tight?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by pumpanddump, Oct 3, 2022.

  1. pumpanddump

    pumpanddump Junior Member

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    I need to bleed my inverter coolant after replacing the pump and an essential step is opening the "breather valve" - in quotes because I don't know the official name of it, pic below. Breather.jpg
    Looks like there are two places to loosen and I am not sure which - is it the Green Circle or Red Circle in my picture.
    I tried using gentle to a little more force on the upper nut, and its not budging
    ... and there never was a rubber gasket on top either.

    Spray some liquid Wrench on it?

    Should I just replace it? I see one bolt holding this in place against the inverter.
    What's the official name or even a product ID number?
    2005 Prius

    thanks in advance!
     
  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    It is a bleeder valve, very similar to what is on a brake caliper.
    The upper portion (green) is what is loosened, but you should hold the bottom section with a wrench while loosening the top.
    You want to slip one end of a plastic tube over the top and put the other end in the reservoir, so as fluid and air pass through, it all goes into the reservoir instead of on the floor.

    The rubber piece that is normally on the top is just to keep the bleeder valve clean.

    If I remember right, the upper portion is 8mm and the bottom is 10mm.

    Pack some paper towels around it. When opening it, I've had to open it enough that fluid was leaking from the thread area, in order to get a good solid flow from the bleeder area and through the tube to flush all the air bubbles out. You also want to squeeze the inverter pump hoses while it's flowing, you'll see a lot more air get burped out.
     
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  3. pumpanddump

    pumpanddump Junior Member

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    Thanks, I'll try that with a wrench's support on the bottom half.
    I was very surprised how tight this was! I was under the impression that it would be a little bit more than hand tight... No clue what previous owner did. There is dirt on valve top, I'll shop vac that out.
     
  4. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Just read your other post. Sorry I missed that, and glad you got it sorted out. I've found that Jim Hudson Toyota in Irmo has really good prices, especially if you buy online and then just pick it up. They have the inverter pump for about $115-120ish. Was just looking at one over the weekend. Just bought a coolant control valve there for $97 + tax last week.
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    So far after replacing three or four inverter pumps about every 3 months on my '09 I have never opened that bleeder until this last change when I change the pump for a completely different designed pump and I just for the heck of it open the bleed screw with no event it just opened right up click open but prior to that I had never opened it every time I swap the pump I removed the pump off the bracket move the hose clamps back twist each hose so I can quickly pull the hose off stick it on the new pump hold the hole on the new pump that's not covered pull the other tube off the old pump that's now starting to run out of the top of the old pump and plug it where my thumb is on the new pump and I've only lost about if lucky a cup of fluid. I then just while I'm not even completely mounted yet open the door and ready the car and allow the pump to start pumping within 24 seconds or so I see the couple fluid that I've lost in the reservoir by looking at the line where it always sits I'm about a cup below it so I add a cup of red Toyota coolant to bring it to the full line and then I put the car and drive and let it back up and then make sure it's level come back forward turn off the radio turn off the car get out and look at the level and then I bolt the pump down to the bracket and I don't touch it until it blows up again the pump that is and I repeat the process and don't drain the coolant and blah blah blah.
     
  6. pumpanddump

    pumpanddump Junior Member

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    uhhh, bleeding the system is apart of the process. There are allot of bubbles. Those air pockets are probably killing your pump.
    This is my first purchase - and its Toyota genuine part - hopefully for atleast another 100k.

    I did splash a bit of coolant in the new pump before hooking up the hoses from the old pump.

    Then today, I just finished bleeding it and I don't see any bubbles in the clear tubing after a short amount of time - even tweaking the breather valve tighter and looser to confirm while the car was running.

    Confirmed I am at full level, maybe added a few ounces and even did the bleed again since its easy.
    techstreamed it after clearing the ECU by unplugging the accessory battery. No codes... went for a drive, just came back - no codes. Turned it off and on a few times and also checked the accessory battery's charge levels. All nominal.

    The only worrisome part of this whole bleeding thing was the original tightness of the 10mm nut... it was a bit ridiculous. Its at a normal level, and I don't see any leaks.

    I'm leaving the front black uhhh, cowling or whatever black plastic crap to confirm over the next day or two no leaks.
    I did make a few splashes removing the clear hose from the process.
    Hopefully no error codes appear.

    I'm recharging the laptop so I can get out there and reconfirm no serious codes.
    I dont give a flying burrito about the solar gauge for the auto A/C.
     
  7. pumpanddump

    pumpanddump Junior Member

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    I have no codes but the B1421. I still show P0A80 as pending... but I have driven the car for 15 to 30 minutes twice, and checked techstream again a minute ago. I am hoping this P0A80 will disappear.

    I have no idea if a battery block value of 15.4V for 1-15 on each is good or a sign of death is near.

    If it helps the MAX Block Vol was 15.5 and the minimum is 15.11 some website is claiming this is around 60% acceptable Proficiency - I have no idea if his data analysis makes sense.

    Battery Values.jpg
     
    #7 pumpanddump, Oct 3, 2022
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2022
  8. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    When you look at the P0A80 code on Techstream, is there a snowflake icon next to it? If so, that is freezeframe data- a snapshot that the ecu took when it set the code. That might give valuable clues as to what specifically the ecu was unhappy about.

    Usually, when the ecu sets the "replace battery" code, it does so because it sees too great a difference (more than about 0.3V) for too long a time (only Toyota knows). The greater the voltage difference, the less time before it codes. A battery module has to fail "completely" before you see it while looking at data while sitting around.

    You need to (safely) monitor block voltages while driving the car- heavy accel & decel to stress the battery.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  9. pumpanddump

    pumpanddump Junior Member

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    I am looking at some pics of the multiple times I used techstream and yes I do see a snowflake for P0A80, and P3000. But have since cleared the ECU, and drove the car a few times and nothing to report with a snowflake, just Pending DTC - P0A80. Im going to try and monitor the Volts under hard acceleration, etc. Which is how I drove the car earlier today to try and produce a red triangle - but it did not happen. Im averaging around 15 Volts for Blocks 1-15 as mentioned earlier.

    I told my girl - since its her car - she has to drive it, till it happens. Theres pretty much no other way. I think. All the data I see is that its just typical time is not on your side, its going to happen. The car never was in "limp mode". She drove it home the first time the Red triangle appeared at least 30+ miles home.
     
  10. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Is your daughter staying local at the USC Campus or going non-local?
    Don't sweat the HV battery stuff, I could likely help you with parts/pieces/rebuild assistance on very short notice if needed.
     
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  11. pumpanddump

    pumpanddump Junior Member

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    Thanks.
    When I say my girl... I mean my wife. She drove it downtown today with no issue. I'll just continue to monitor the battery power. I'm going to stress test it with full blast a/c, stereo, and driving like it's a BMW or Nissan Altima.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Have you seen a "pending P0A80" each time you've looked, after clearing?
     
  13. pumpanddump

    pumpanddump Junior Member

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    I cleared the ecu by disconnecting the accessory battery...I don't know how to clear it via tech stream.
    Last check I did last night:
    But I think yea it was still in there as pending, even after 3 trips. The check engine light definitely showed up because I didn't bleed the new pump install.

    After doing that, it seems like smooth sailing for now. Again, no idea if the volt numbers are good, failing slow or fast...

    I can't read that monitor in the car - the colors are crap and screen burned.

    So purple, green, white, blue are useless. I see solid block bars not all of them...so it has a charge maintained. I see arrows moving around.
    I will say this...that at startup when the mechanical engine starts...and then stops...it's a long time before it starts up again...could be due to weather temp....this is at idol in park, farting around in the car.

    Writing from cellphone...meh.
     

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  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It pays to be careful when making assumptions about why things happen.

    The image you've just posted shows no codes except the solar sensor nothingburger, and four history codes involving airbags, the smart key system, and the body ECU not communicating with the combination meter.

    In your other thread, you've assumed your check-engine light was because of P3000 because of unbled air in the inverter cooling system:

    That's a shaky assumption; there are five possible reasons P3000 can be set, and three of those will turn on the check-engine light, but none of those reasons would be affected by the inverter cooling system, bleeding, or pump. Naturally, you do want to complete the burping of that system, but if you didn't see any codes that pertained to that cooling system, then your delay in burping doesn't explain the light you got.

    There is one P3000 subcode, though, 123, that would reflect the battery ECU detecting P0A80 conditions. Those conditions also aren't related to the inverter coolant, bleeding, or pump either. I can understand wanting to think so, but I would caution against getting hopes up too much. With a P0A80 returning in pending state after being cleared by battery disconnection, you should at least be emotionally preparing for further news about that.
     
  15. pumpanddump

    pumpanddump Junior Member

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    I do not know, its not that far off - car went bad - red triangle - error codes about pump, etc. - fixed the pump incompletely - drove car - seemed ok - then it wasn't shortly after a few trips - 2 drives - check engine light came back - bleed the coolant properly - cleared ECU, drove the car multiple times and no issue.

    ECU is doing what its suppose to holding that error code as pending until its deemed ok after multiple trips.
    Not much else I can do but, monitor for codes, and any noticeable downgrades in performance.
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It's easy to make things seem not that far off, if you pay very selective attention to information that supports your assumption (like "lights/codes came on at X time and then I did Y") and not to other information that's also available, like what the codes mean, and what conditions cause them to be set. You're also borrowing some information about how long a Gen 3 ECM retains "current" codes, and applying it to a Gen 2 ECM and a "pending" code. You did ask for that information in a separate thread, but you are sort of mixing-and-matching from it.

    It's true, at this point you'll just have to wait and see, but if you do see any more lights and codes, the information on what they mean can help you at least as much as just going by circumstances of when you saw them and what you remember doing.
     
  17. pumpanddump

    pumpanddump Junior Member

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    I tackled this with the scientific method - make a hypothesis, and test, gather results, test again... its like fixing any computer problem more or less. I just rechecked with Techstream after the car was driven to and from for about 50 miles total. I have no codes to report other than the solar a/c panel one - that I dont care about. The battery went up in voltage from 15 to 16, while idolling the switching off and on of the gas engine was faster too, compared to before. The P0A80 code is gone, no longer pending. Many of the important subsystems had zero error codes to report. The Prius is fine.
     
  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That covers part of the scientific method. The less exciting and sexy part that is done in the library and at the blackboard before starting an experiment is also important, though, because while a good experiment can help distinguish between a couple hypotheses, it can rarely rule out every thinkable wrong one. (Plenty of experiments about combustion didn't rule out phlogiston.) Using the blackboard and related-work research wisely can eliminate some hypotheses at the outset (conflicts with what's already known, system doesn't work that way, etc.), so the lab time for experiments can be used to choose between hypotheses that have some chance of being right.
     
  19. pumpanddump

    pumpanddump Junior Member

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    Long story short: the error codes came back...for the hybrid battery. I have the freeze frames of what upset the system. I will probably start a new thread regarding this.

    But for two days, it did seem resolved.
    Another issue I have with this car is the oil dipstick - everytime I check it ..there is a very long stream on one end going up the guage ...but a semi clear and defined horizontal line that should be the actual Measurement - this line is annoying to read...I should post a pic shortly.
    Battery Voltage is around 13. The average commute for this vehicle is around 45 miles daily.
     
  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    My dipstick does the same thing. Must be the way it bends in the tube, or something.
     
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