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Inverter Overheat

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by efusco, Jun 29, 2011.

  1. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    Over the past 48 hours, with my CanView I've noticed that my inverter temps have been above normal. Initially I was seeing 110-120sF which didn't frighten me, but it was clearly higher than typical unless doing some major regen or EV mode driving on a hot day. Yesterday I noticed the temps were closer to 130-140F which is definately abnormal, I don't think I'd ever seen it hit even 140 before. Today on a bit longer drive into town to get my kids the inverter was getting up to the 180s (see photos) which really did freak me out. But I had a mission that couldn't be aborted.

    On the way back I was running the AC pretty cool (75F) b/c the kids were hot from soccer camp and it was clear that the inverter was getting hotter climbing toward and eventually exceeding 200F. I saw peaks above 220F and shortly thereafter the master warning light, CEL, VSC and about everything else came on and remain on.

    The car continued to run, but eventually the AC stopped kicking out cold air, so I just shut the thing off, which seemed to help the inverter cool down some. (back to the 180-190 range).

    Called Toyota service and they say they can't get the car in until the 11th, but if I drop it off and leave it for a few days 'maybe' they could get to it sooner, but there are no diagnostic guys that'll be there over the holiday weekend, so if they can't do it tomorrow I'm screwed until mid next week.

    My initial speculation is that it's likely the inverter coolant pump--at least that's what I hope it is as I'm not keen on buying a new inverter.

    Any other ideas from Patrick or any of my other tech gurus??
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  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Evan,

    Yes, it is likely that the inverter coolant pump has failed. Can you look for fluid turbulence within the coolant reservoir (which would show that the pump is running OK?)

    If the car will run without warning lights after the inverter has cooled down, then the inverter is probably OK.
     
  3. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    If you hear or feel that vibration from the pump, but do not see turbulance in the resevoir, it could be just excessive air in system and it needs bleeding. Im not sure of the location on the bleeder screw on the 2004, but it should be posted in PC. I think there are two. If you cannot hear or feel the pump running at all, then it is not getting its 12V. There may be a fuse????
     
  4. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    Hello Evan, I see you put this in Gen II thread, so bleeding bleeder nipple is even easier. and if needed, installing pump is a snap. Was your car covered by the LSC :D
     
  5. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    My car is covered by the LSC, but I think I had the inverter coolant pump replaced--isn't it the one that made all the noise, or is that just the reservior pump?

    I looked at the long, thin coolant tank...the one with the plastic cap near the engine coolant cap...is that the correct one? In any case, I didn't see ANY coolant in that reservoir tank at all! I'm thinking that can't be a good thing. Wondering if I have a leak or something.

    I don't have any spare coolant sitting around to pour in there to test, unfortunately...I'm guessing just putting water in there is a bad idea.

    I'm taking the car in to the service dept. first thing in the morning, but I'm wondering if I should just ask for the LSC and then see how it goes b/c I'm afraid, if that's all it is, they'll charge me a diagnostic fee first, then do the LSC.
     
  6. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Coolant is 50% water -- it cannot be bad, just turns to steam easier than SLLC. If it was me I would add water before driving to the dealer. Running on air sounds bad.
     
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Evan,

    1. You need to put some coolant in the engine coolant reservoir. If the reservoir is empty, who knows how low the fluid is in the radiator. It would be best if you could remove the six plastic fittings that secure the black plastic cover over the radiator so that you can open the radiator cap and look inside.

    2. The reservoir that I am talking about is the inverter coolant reservoir which is mounted on the inverter, next to the engine. That is the one that should show turbulence.

    3. If you don't have a supply of coolant in your garage, then may I suggest that you should take another car to the dealer to buy a gallon of Toyota SLLC before you drive the Prius, especially if the coolant in the radiator is low.
     
  8. mikewithaprius

    mikewithaprius New Member

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    Evan, did you realize you put your personal phone numbers up in that one pic?
     
  9. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    I'll have to look again Patrick. I have that plastic cover off (have for about 5 years), so I ws looking at the long white plastic reservoir that says "coolant" on the black plastic cap. Next to that is a metal cap that says engine coolant...are they connected? Why 2 caps?

    I don't think I was looking at the inverter coolant, I'll go do that now as I didn't notice anything attached to the inverter.
     
  10. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    LOL, no, I didn't...oh well, I don't think I'll get too much attention and it's easier to find elsewhere if anyone really wants it.
     
  11. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    OK, Patrick, I see the inverter coolant storage, it has plenty of coolant and with Ig On I do not see or feel any turbulance. Also, there is a fairly high pitched WeeWeeWeeWeeWee sound I can hear from in or around the inverter. It's not a steady tone like I'd expect the inverter itself to make.

    Since I have no SLL Coolant, limited time, limited transportation options, and the ability to monitor the ICE temp (which has never gotten high, nor have the MG temps) I'm going to go ahead and drive it in in the morning and just stop when/if I need to cool things down.
     
  12. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Your inverter cooling pump is bad. Can't believe they will make you wait until the 11th to fix it.

    There probably is a leak in the engine water pump. Because the engine is not used very hard, it takes an eternity for enough coolant to escape to cause a CEL. Even on other 4 cylinder Toyota like the RAV and Corolla, the coolant leak is so slow that it does not leave a drip spot in the driveway.

    The pump that made all the noise is usually the coolant storage tank pump. You should be covered for a new inverter cooling pump. Since you can monitor the temperatures, driving short distances is ok.
     
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  13. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    Thanks guys, that confirms what I was thinking. I'll replace the ICE coolant myself and just ask them to replace the inverter coolant pump under the SLC and try to avoid a seperate diagnostic charge.
     
  14. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    Whatever cooling system is low, engine or inverter, before you go into town fill up with water so you don't damage anything. Water is OK as a temp. coolant, as long as it is not winter. incidentally if you flush and refill the engine cooling system, I am quite sure it takes the same SLLC fluid or (anti-freeze). After you take off the black plastic cover off the car, the white plastic container is the windshield washer container, the metal cap is the radiator cap and the one plastic container is the overflow for the radiator, or engine cooling system. It does sound like you have a bad leak in the radiator system. Good Luck. :D
     
  15. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    I gather two separate problems ?

    1. Likely inverter coolant pump not working
    2. Leak in the engine coolant circuit, perhaps from the pump.

    What is a 'safe' temperature to cook the inverter at ?
     
  16. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    I think #1 is correct. I'm not yet sure of #2...it's something I've never checked before so there's no telling how long it's been low.

    I drove the car in to the 'night drop' early this morning and asked that they only replace the inverter coolant pump under the LSC...we'll see how that goes over with them, but I'd certainly like to try the 'free' repair first...failing that I'd be willing to leave it for further diagnostics. Inverter temps slowly climbed over the ~16 mile drive from a starting temp of about 90F to a peak of ~160F and it had settled in around 155F by the time I'd arrived. I avoided regen braking by putting the car in neutral for stops as you could really see the temps spike when doing regen and when accellerating from a stop (with amp peaks around -40).

    Got my fingers crossed that someone will jump on this repair right away, not looking forward to a 12 day wait until the next "scheduled appointment"--that seems a ludicrously long time.

    I'll refill the engine coolant when I get the car back.
     
  17. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    My engine coolant was low right from when new. It looked "normal" when I first inspected the engine compartment but it turned out my idea of "ok" was wrong. I'm talking about the overflow reservoir near the front of the engine compartment. It's nicely hidden. When my mechanical engine coolant pump failed I had nice coloured decoration all around it (dried coolant in stings and splotches). The level didn't actually drop much. But because I was fooled by Toyota not filling it properly I didn't notice it drop slowly (the dealer is supposed to check and fill it during pre-delivery inspection - I guess they were also fooled). But the decoration got my attention. ;)
    I now keep my overflow reservoir properly filled so I can see if I get a leak.
    The mechanical coolant pumps seem to be poorly made. I don't think they should develop a leak at 50,000 km. And I have the same comment about the electric coolant pumps.

    Are you listening yet Toyota? The car is great. Just fix these minor issues!
     
  18. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    The can-view did a nice job of warning the driver of malfunction, but there is a lot to be said for monitoring fluid levels and appearance. Easy, quick, free, and high yield.

    I think David is right that the pumps should not be considered long-life, forget-about-them items. They are inexpensive and pretty easy to install, so I just replace them every 5 years or so as part of preventive maintenance. Avoids drama ;)
     
  19. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    The IC pump was redesigned for MY 2008; the engine water pump was redesigned for MY 2009. Toyota has had problems with engine water pumps forever. At least now, they generally fail slowly, rather than catastrophically. Try having your water pump break, and then have the attached fan blade scraped down to nothing against the radiator. It happened to me twenty five years ago in a Celica, in June, in between Yuma and El Centro.
     
  20. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    I suspect you have a pig trapped in your inverter. Did it make this sound all the way home?

    Tom
     
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