Inverter water pump getting no voltage after replacement.

Could also be a problem with the wires or the electrical connector that goes to the pump. I would start by testing the voltage on the wires above that connector. A positap would be a good way to do this, but if you don't have any, any sturdy steel pin pushed through the insulation should work. If you don't find a voltage when the car is in READY work your way back up the wires until you find the problem.

 

There's a handy connector that's unpluggable to prevent a bad inverter pump from continuing to blow the AM2 fuse while you arrange for replacing the pump.



You might first look to see if maybe that got unplugged earlier and hasn't been plugged back in.

Even if it is plugged in now, you can unplug it and check for 12V on the upstream side; that at least will help narrow down where the problem might be, before you start poking holes in any wires.

 

Chap, have you ever looked at any wiring diagrams to see which side of the pump that connector is on? I've always assumed it was the 12v supply side, but I've never verified it. Seems like it would 'save' the fuse either way, as long as it broke the path for current. I probably have 20 or so of those connectors that I've removed from salvage yard cars. Planned to use them to splice a 10A fuse into that section of wiring, just so it won't ever blow the 15A AM2 again in any of my cars. Guess I should actually do that sometime..

 

A great question that had never occurred to me. The wiring diagram shows it on the ground side, interrupting a white-with-black-stripe wire, commonly used by Toyota for grounds.