Is she dead or is she sleeping?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by SJ4405, Aug 28, 2020.

  1. SJ4405

    SJ4405 New Member

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    2005 Toyota Prius with 50-70% HV battery (refurbished) sat for 4 or 5 months, it was cold outside and we weren't speaking to each other. The 12v died, was replaced for good measure, now I can view the charge of the HV batt. The diagram indicates and alternates between zero or one bar of life. The car has Plock warning and will not go into D or R. I cannot get the cars engine to run. All the other issues not withstanding and not mentioned here, is it possible to get the motor to run if this thing has a dead HV battery? I attempted to put the car in maintenance mode by doing a little dance, got the lights that would indicate I was in that mode, but to no avail, the engine did not kick on.
    Will getting this things motor on, charge this HV battery??? Or will the motor not run because the HV battery is a sad old juice box? Can I somehow charge this thing before tackling other repairs. I want to buy a 2day techstream subscribtion to get codes and run diagnostics but I want to be ready and make the most of my time.(as much as I want to be Angelina from Hackers I cant get the driver to install from the $35 amazon software I got with this Obd2-Mini-Vci-Jawn) I don't have my hopes up that she will feel the wind on her cheeks again, but I have to give it the college try. Because I'm in college...for electrical engineering.. and the fate of my life decisions weighs heavy on my shoulders.
     
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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    anywho, i'd say your best bet is to get dr prius app, find the bad cells, replace them and rebalance
     
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  3. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    No.
    Yes.
    It might still be usable.
    Yes, you can use a commercial grid charger, a hobby charger (takes time) or a power supply.
    Which version of winblows are you using?
     
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  4. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    What happens? Nothing, no sound, nada? Or is trying to start (ICE is being spun but never runs)? If it's the former, I suspect the used HV battery is below operating voltage (aka dead). Old batts don't like sitting unused and especially not in the heat.

    Reading the codes will tell the tale.

    GOOD LUCK!
     
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  5. SJ4405

    SJ4405 New Member

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    Thanks for the insight guys, I really do appreciate it.

    SFO, great to info to know. Is there one comprehensive charger or a hv battery tender of sorts that exists, one that you have had success with? I'm looking into it, however, keep getting results about testing and reconditioning, i feel like that might be where this is headed. I have Winblows 10 lol, 64bit laptop... not ideal?

    Bisco, I've purchased the blutooth plug for the Dr. Prius app, it arrived today. Sounds like a good route to try, thank you vmuch!

    fotomoto, what do you mean by being spun? After the 12v replacement, The electric car part of the car seems like its all on, however there is no combustion occurring, in the motor at least. But, when I put it in maintenance mode, (the second or third consecutive time in 10 mins) I swear I smelled burning coming from about the place where my hv batt isss. :whistle:
     
  6. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    She's just sleeping.

    This is this first thing to fix. Once this problem is resolved the engine will start and then you can determine the state of the HV battery. In addition to Dr Prius download Torque, Hybrid Assistant, and Hybrid Reporter apps.

    To fix the P-Lock warning follow this short thread.

    P Lock C2310 Fix Fixed Solved Solution | PriusChat
     
  7. SJ4405

    SJ4405 New Member

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    Thanks for the encouragement lol I think she's just sleeping as well. I will be sure to take a look at those apps.

    I did try connecting the 7.5 amp fuse hole to the pin on the plug. I tried it twice, incase my connections weren't the best. Do you think using thicker gauge wire would cause this not to work? I used 10 or 12 maybe. I really had to smush it in there but ultimately I belive i made the connection.
     
  8. SJ4405

    SJ4405 New Member

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    Get this, I ran the Dr. Prius app, hooked it up to the blutooth obd..accidently cleared the codes almost immediately. I saw there was 2.. and my finger, it just kept moving and brushed the clear codes button. They were probably the two codes related to the braking system that records from previous owner show, the first one started with a 1 so it could have been. I dont expect to ever see these codes again as there will be no drive cycles in the near future..

    SO i open torque, run the codes, hoping they may return or be in the history. Thats when i get P3030, "High Voltage Line Snapped". I think snapped is a rather aggressive term. For a moment I feel a sense of relief at the possibility that I may be electrocuted. It is raining heavily.

    Not for nothing I did get a snap shot of the battery from the Dr. and the first two blocks look suspect. Screenshot_20200902-121930_Dr Prius.jpg
     
  9. SJ4405

    SJ4405 New Member

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    I think I should recondition the battery and replace the battery harness. Thoughts, concerns, complaints?
     
  10. SJ4405

    SJ4405 New Member

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    Hey do you know which blade its referring to when it says blade voltage? If there are 38 blades with 6 cells in each..and 14...blocks..

    I been googling this for a hot minny with no luck
     
  11. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i don't, that screen shot doesn't look right. i would wait until the lights come on again and run dr. prius. spend some time learning how it works, i think it will pay off.
     
  12. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    Opening up the high voltage Prius battery is dangerous work that should only be performed by those that understand what they are doing. It's up to you to learn the needed safety measures.

    The P03030 means that the voltage sensing harness on the battery has corroded to the point of breaking (snapped). The corrosion can be at the orange plug at the battery computer or at the module terminals. Your Dr Prius screen shot shows that the affected lines are the two farthest from the battery ECU.

    There are 28, not 38 modules (blades) in the battery pack. A block is two modules so 14 blocks. Dr Prius shows the voltages of the four modules opposite the battery computer are not being read correctly. That's a classic pattern for a cororred orange plug at the battery computer.

    Your battery might not need any reconditioning, just a battery computer and a voltage sensing harness.

    There's still that P-Lock problem to sort out.
     
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  13. Seaside Harry

    Seaside Harry Junior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat! What Dr Prius calls a "blade" is what everyone else calls a "module." Your pack contains 28 replaceable modules in all (2 per block), with 6 cells in each module, for a total of 168 cells. Individual cells are non-replaceable.

    Blade voltage in Dr Prius is simply an average—total pack voltage divided by 28 blades (modules). If your first two blocks were on par with the other 12, your total pack voltage would be in the neighborhood of 210 V and Dr Prius would report a healthier blade voltage of 7.5 V.

    You definitely need to be looking at blocks 1 & 2: modules 1 thru 4, which in your Gen 2 will be located at the end of the pack furthest from the ECU, with #1 at the very end, closest to the black air ducts on the passenger side. If you plan to try this yourself, be sure to study up on the process and procure the necessary tools and safety equipment, including high-voltage lineman gloves with leather over-gloves. There are some very good YouTube videos and a120+ page thread on this forum that cover traction battery rebuilding in great detail. Hope this helps.

    -Harry
     
  14. Seaside Harry

    Seaside Harry Junior Member

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    Whoops, I responded before seeing Strawbrad's reply from yesterday. I was very lucky when I rebuilt the pack in our 2005—harness was in great shape with no serious corrosion. I just had to replace one dead module and a couple of weak ones. This reminded me of a corrosion problem I did encounter, however, which is likely to be fairly common in Prii of similar vintage to ours.

    It seems that Toyota chose a wire gauge and connector type insufficient to handle the current load on the hybrid battery cooling fan relay circuit. This eventually led to an open circuit at the connector attached to to fan mounting bracket, preventing the fan from engaging, and allowing my pack to get very warm before throwing P0A80 and P3000 codes.

    I'm not suggesting that this is related to SJ4405's problem, just that it's something everyone should probably take a look at when self-servicing an older battery pack. I bypassed the corroded connections in ours with a beefier 2-wire connector that uses 16 AWG wire instead of the factory 20 AWG. Pictures attached.

    -Harry

    IMG_6898.jpg IMG_6900.jpg IMG_6927.jpg IMG_6929.jpg
     
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