Is this a scam? Replace front wheel bearing

Did you buy the whole hub assemblies? If so, you don't need a press. I haven't done this job yet, so I might be wrong, but alignment shouldn't be affected, or at least it can wait.

Did it sound like he's worked on the Prius before? Be sure the mechanic knows to disconnect the 12V to prevent brake issues (automatic electric pump). Otherwise it's standard front end wrench work any shop can do, and I would go for the cheaper deal.

 

Ditto on disconnecting the 12v battery before removing the caliper.

I just did a wheel bearing on my new-to-me 2004. You really don't need a press per se to replace the wheel bearing since it's held in by 4 bolts. The issue comes when the iron bearing/hub assembly is in contact with the aluminum carrier. If you are in an area that uses salt to de-ice roads, the resulting electrolysis binds the two pieces together so they are nearly impossible to separate; difficult, but not impossible. Took mine to a machine shop which used 4 sacrificial bolts (not the ones that came out of the carrier) and a large 4lb sledgehammer to beat the old bearing out of the carrier using the bolts. The new bearing/hub has the threads so nothing was damaged.

You could always go with the lower cost and have someone else align it afterwards. The alignment is recommended because you will be removing and disturbing a lot of alignment settings by removing the hub assembly. You might be able to get away without an alignment if the technician is really careful. But if the car pulls to one side going down the road or the steering wheel is no longer centered, I would pay for an alignment. It's cheaper than continually replacing tires.

 

At $90/side, that's REALLY CHEAP, like uber crap parts cheap. OEM hubs are in the $150/side and quality (name brand, OEM supplier) aftermarket are ~$90/side range for the parts only.

No need to get an alignment for hub replacement, strictly speaking, but it never hurts.

 

As I understand it, the OP already bought the parts and the quote is for labor only.

 

I got the bearing for ~75$ few years back and ~100$ last year. And they were the same brand as the ones they replaced (even though they came in an SKF box, but since they were the OEM brand or so I thought, I never complained with the seller).

Both times I went to the Toyota dealer to have the bearing removed from the aluminium carrier. First time I tried myself, broke the bearing apart, had someone else try with a hydraulic press and an incorrectly fitting ring and then had the dealer try with a correclty fitting ring.

Last time my ABS-sensor bolt broke even though I used loads of IMAL on it. Be careful with that one. (Also a iron/steel in aluminum problem...)