Jump Start P Lock

Just change the 12v battery and it'll probably be fixed

 

If the car cannot run by itself after you disconnect the "donor" car battery, then you've somehow damaged the DC/DC converter while you jump started the car. Once the Prius is started, it should not need the 12v battery to stay running

The DC/DC converter is what charges the 12v battery, like the alternator in your camry.

If the DC/DC converter is working, the voltage at the 12v battery should be around 14v when the car is running in READY mode.

 

When you get a chance, check your battery voltage when the car is in READY MODE. Make sure it's around 14v

 

I got the same error messages with my one day it turned out the driver's door wasn't closed properly

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

AND......at this point, it would be a REALLY good idea to borrow or buy a small battery charger and fully charge the battery with the car OFF.

IF the battery is over 5 years old, you probably should start shopping for a new one.

 

Remove battery and charge it can't charge a battery very good hooks to car takes a very long time pull one side then charge

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Does your mobil device NOT have a new line button.......or a comma or period ??
tryingtoreadthatpostisonlyslightlyeasierthanreadingthis

 

Not sure what your talking about "pull one side" What does that mean?

Very easy to charge the 12 volt with its front jump points do it all the time and have for 10 years,

 

Remove one of the cable from the battery then charge it. Removing the load of the car


Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Totally and absolutely un-necessary.
The parasitic load from the car when OFF should be insignificant.
And some settings are lost when you disconnect the battery.......and that is a pain in the backside.

 

Correct.
Waste of time and less wrenching on the battery connections the better. Your method creates lots of sparks which the 12 volt buss does not appreciate. By removing and reapplying main B+ Multiple times
Your taking that circuit on and off 5 times. Be respectful of the 12 volt buss really bad things happen
As your basicly doing a repeated jump start with your method.

 

Well I've tried it with a dead battery on a pruis. Have You? My truck yes your right. But a prius has 3 computer that try to start before they turn off in standby. But they need 12v before that happen.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Usually anytime you thoroughly discharge an older Prius 12 volt battery it usually kills it. It begins a chemical
Action called sulphation which damages the battery cells preventing them from ever charging properly again.
Your battery is damaged. With 2 kids and one on the way it's critical to get a new battery.
Don't bother getting it "load" tested just replace it.

 

ok I see you do not understand this.

 

As I understand it (I'm persuadable with references if I've got this wrong), sulphation is a slow process that takes place as long as the battery is deeply discharged. So it is the usual cause of death found in a lead-acid battery that has been left at a low state of charge for weeks or months at a time.

Just letting a battery get deeply discharged for a brief period and promptly recharged isn't likely to build much of a sulphate layer that won't just redissolve into the electrolyte after charging.

Usually the biggest risk to a deeply discharged car battery comes from being jumped and then recharged by the car's (somewhat uncontrolled) charging system at a too high, juice-boiling, plate-eroding rate. A Prius might be a little better there than older cars (doesn't get much above 14 volts, and has remote V sensing (gen 1 and 2) or a battery temperature sensor (gen 3, I don't know about 4). But still, if you have the time to spare and a handy outlet, it is gentler on a deeply discharged battery to bring it back up with a smart charger, rather than just jumping it and letting the car pound all the joules back in.

-Chap

 

Apples and oranges.

While it is true that the computers might set some invalid trouble codes as the battery recovers from a "dead" condition,
most charging connections to the battery don't involve a completely DEAD battery and having a cable disconnected does NOT speed up the charging process.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
If nothing comes up "weird" after charging with the cables ON, just leave it alone.
If it does come up odd, then disconnect one cable to reboot everything AFTER the recharge is done.

 

Your understanding is off just a little.

Once the sulphation process starts in any significant way, it just continues because the compound created generally is NOT soluble in the electrolyte solution. That is what causes the problem to progress.