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Just bought used Prius--check engine light now on...

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by slj86, Jun 11, 2014.

  1. slj86

    slj86 New Member

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    I just bought a used 2008 Prius, delivered a couple days ago. Now the check engine light is on. I went into diagnostic mode and found this code:

    G/W
    01-dd 110-6e-1

    What does this mean and is it what's causing the check engine light?

    Any insights would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    don't know the code, but check the gas cap for tightness. should be one click.
     
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    how many miles do you have on the car?
     
  4. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    genII is not 1 click, it's a regular cap, need about 3 clicks
     
  5. slj86

    slj86 New Member

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    Maybe that's it! I did only one click when I filled up today, but just re-did with 3 clicks. Will let you know if this does the trick. Thank you both!

    BTW, 130,000 miles on the car....
     
  6. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    you should regularly check the oil level on the car as well. they tend to burn oil at that mileage and you don't want to run low.

    If it is the gas cap, you would need to drive it about 30 minutes or more before it turns off.
     
  7. slj86

    slj86 New Member

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    OK thanks for the advice! I will check the oil too...and give it 30 min for the light to turn off (I hope)...
     
  8. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    Those codes mean nothing, and are for the Audio/LAN system only, not about any other systems. In order to read the DTC's in general, you need to get a Prius specific code reader, like the mini VCI. For just the check engine light you can get a scan at Autozone for free.
     
  9. slj86

    slj86 New Member

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    Gas cap didn't fix the problem, so got the code read by the service station today and it's a worn out catalyst apparently. I guess it comes with age. He said it would cost about $1000 to replace the catalyst, but that he could try replacing the O2 sensor first as that sometimes makes the problem disappear (the CEL error at least).

    If anyone has thoughts on this I'm interested, but in any case thanks for your earlier responses.
     
  10. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    That is rather too soon for the cat to go, and very rare. Too soon for the O2 sensor as well, but maybe more likely. There are other threads here that mention this. What exact code was read?
     
  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    What state are you in? Since this is an emissions related repair, check with your local dealer to see if there is any warranty coverage for the cat

    SM-N900P ?
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Tightening the fuel cap one click is sufficient.

    If the car was originally sold in California and continuously licensed and operated there, then it qualifies for warranty coverage under the more generous California warranty. In that case the catalytic converter may still be covered under warranty.

    If not, I agree that it makes sense to replace the air/fuel ratio sensor upstream from the catalytic converter first to see if that helps. The reason it may help is if a new A/F ratio sensor is more responsive to changes in the A/F ratio than the existing sensor, that will help the engine ECU to conclude that the catalytic converter is functioning in an acceptable manner.

    It seems reasonable that a new catalytic converter will cost $1K because California does not allow installation of an aftermarket cc which does not meet California standards - and those standards are relatively rigid, having to do with durability of the replacement part.

    The engine should be evaluated to see if it has a problem. The iridium spark plugs should be replaced now if that service was not earlier performed. An engine misfire, or an engine which is burning oil, will introduce more unburnt HC to the catalytic converter which will cause it to overheat and wear out sooner than it otherwise might.
     
    #12 Patrick Wong, Jun 14, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2014
  13. slj86

    slj86 New Member

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    Don't know the code, but I will ask the mechanic....
     
  14. slj86

    slj86 New Member

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    I'm in CA, but the car was originally registered/operated in Florida. I just had it shipped out here last week. I'm about to go camping for a week (yes, driving the Prius, wish me luck!) but will bring it back to the mechanic for the O2 sensor and spark plug replacements next week. As far as evaluating the engine for a problem, do you mean have it scanned to look for engine misfire or other codes? Or is there more I need done to "evaluate the engine to see if it has a problem"?

    Thanks again to you all for the helpful advice.
     
  15. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Does this car have a clean title? Is rare to hear about people buying these Hybrids without seeing them in person.

    Hope it works out for you, one lucky thing you have in California, the car is exempt from Smog inspections (to register the car into California) so you have plenty of time to sort out the problem.

    SM-N900P ?
     
  16. slj86

    slj86 New Member

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    Yes, title is clean. It was a single-owner trade in to the dealer. Carfax records say they took it to the dealer to the oil every 5,000 miles, etc. so our fingers are crossed it's going to be ok...we'll see! Thanks!
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Well, since the check engine light was lit, you had the DTC scanned and you were told the car needed a new catalytic converter, I assume that the only code reported to you was P0420. If that assumption is not correct then please report what the logged DTC were.

    If no other DTC were logged, that is not sufficient evidence to assume that all is well given the failed catalytic converter. You should remove and inspect the iridium spark plugs to determine their condition. You can tell a lot about an engine by looking at the used spark plugs: whether the engine is burning oil, whether the air/fuel mixture is too rich or too lean, whether a cylinder is operating poorly compared to the other three.