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Just did my first oil/filter change after 5,050 miles.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Steve Goldenberg, May 4, 2004.

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  1. Steve Goldenberg

    Steve Goldenberg New Member

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    It was harder than I expected due to the very low ground clearance but fortunately I was able to reach the drain plug from the front. The oil filter was even closer but you do need an oil filter end grip which Toyota sells for $7. I replaced the drain plug with a Fumoto F103 Oil Drain Valve so future changes will be even easier. While I was at it, I drilled the upper dimple on the oil dip stick right thru. That makes it much easier to check the oil level. I filled it a little less than that mark as indicated in many prior news group threads about high oil levels. The original oil was very clean. I used 5W-30 Mobil 1. Resetting the "Maint Req" light from the ODO switch was real simple.
     
    #1 Steve Goldenberg, May 4, 2004
  2. jamarimutt

    jamarimutt New Member

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    Thanks for the tips; I especially liked the idea of drilling the dimple. :D
     
    #2 jamarimutt, May 6, 2004
  3. JJay

    JJay New Member

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    Hey Steve,

    Thanks for the post, very informative, especially the Fumoto part number!

    Can you tell us, did it come with an oil plug gasket, or did you have to buy one separately?
     
    #3 JJay, May 8, 2004
  4. Steve Goldenberg

    Steve Goldenberg New Member

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    The Fumoto oil drain valve comes with a gasket which I used. The Toyota dealer gave me two gaskets, one with each oil filter I purchased.
     
    #4 Steve Goldenberg, May 8, 2004
  5. JJay

    JJay New Member

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    So, when I change the oil for the first time, looks like I'll need:

    fumotovalve.com F103 drain plug with gasket $22.95
    oil filter end grip which Toyota sells for $7
    Toyota oil filter 90915-YZZA2 $5
    3.9 quarts of oil 5W-30 Mobil 1: 4 x $5 = $20
    car ramps for the low ground clearance
    oil drain pan
    rachet for oil filter end grip

    So every 5000 miles the cost would be:
    synthetic oil & filter: $25
    -or- dino oil & filter: $10

    Have I forgotten anything?
     
    #5 JJay, May 8, 2004
  6. Steve Goldenberg

    Steve Goldenberg New Member

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    If you have the ramps OK. If not, don't bother to buy them. You can do it without getting under the car and with the Fumoto valve it's even easier. I was just used to the greater clearance of the Subaru Outback.
     
    #6 Steve Goldenberg, May 8, 2004
  7. electraglider_1997

    electraglider_1997 New Member

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    :mrgreen: I'm sure that the original oil plug is magnetized and catches metal filings as double duty. To replace it with something else to facilitate oil changes may or may not be the best idea. Fram sells a valved oil plug at Walmart for about 9 bucks but I worried about not having the magnet so I passed.
     
    #7 electraglider_1997, May 13, 2004
  8. Steve Goldenberg

    Steve Goldenberg New Member

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    After the previous post, I checked the original oil drain plug. It looks like it's made of brass and it is NOT magnetized. I'm sure there were no steel filings attached to it when I removed it. I don't know what may have been in the oil that drained out. I hope the oil filter does the job but the Fumoto valve really makes the oil change easier and safer. If anyone has a magnetic adapter, I would use that as well.
     
    #8 Steve Goldenberg, May 14, 2004
  9. aarons12

    aarons12 New Member

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    i think i still have the same ramps that i used to install the 'hush thrush' mufflers and air shocks on my 1974 road runner... guess i can now use them again.
     
    #9 aarons12, May 14, 2004
  10. Lectricar

    Lectricar New Member

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    #10 Lectricar, May 15, 2004
  11. harryg

    harryg New Member

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    Thanks for the tip on the Fumoto drain valve, ordered one. Our Prius
    isn't due for a oil change for quiet a while only has 500 miles. Is the procedure to turn off the maintenance light in the operating manual
    somewhere, if its not could you post it, or where you found it - thanks.
     
    #11 harryg, May 18, 2004
  12. harryg

    harryg New Member

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    Just found the procedure, thanks!

    Harry
     
    #12 harryg, May 18, 2004
  13. aja2460

    aja2460 Junior Member

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    Just changed my oil at 1450 miles. The theory is (and it's just my theory) that some wear happens in the first several hundred miles; wear in, a little ring seating..., and it can't hurt.
    Replaced the filter ($4.90 at the local Toyota parts department), installed the fumoto valve, and put in a little less than four quarts of Mobile 1 5w20 ($23.99 for six quarts at Costco). I lifted the car on the passenger side 4 or 5 inches to help me get under the front bumper. Knowing the layout and having the valve installed, it will be easy to do without lifting the car.
    Drilled small very small holes in the dipstick dimples (per the suggestion here), making seeing the oil level much easier.
    Even though I left about 1 inch in the fourth quart bottle, the dipstick showed 1/4 inch over the full mark after it had run to work and back. Easy to take a little out with the drain valve.
    My plan is to Change the Mobile 1 at 5K miles and at each 5K after that.
    Alan
     
    #13 aja2460, May 18, 2004
  14. HTMLSpinnr

    HTMLSpinnr Super Moderator
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    I'm not sure going with 5w20 would be wise unless you run the engine cooler than specified. The upper limit in viscosity is specified to protect moving parts at operating temperature. With a thinner viscosity, you may be offering a thinner film, and less overall protection.

    Granted the plus side is reduced oil pumping loss as a result of lowered viscosity, which could yield higher MPG, but I'm not sure I'd trade that for the risk of reduced engine longevity unless there was substantial evidence showing that the reduced weight didn't have a negative effect in higher temps. My car spends some time in Arizona summer conditions, and I would hate to experience any adverse effects as a result of trying to save a few gallons of gas.

    Anyone else using lower-than-specified viscosities for long term experience any negative effects?

    I'm at 9300 miles with the maint req'd light briefly flashing - I had my first change at 4700 miles, so I'll be due for a change soon. I was contemplating doing it myself and using Mobil-1 5w30, but my car's alignment feels "off", so it may be easier to have the dealer change it this time so I can take advantage of the "free" (warranty) < 12k mile alignment while it's in. I may consider doing my own after this service, provided I can find a place to do it - I live in a condo complex and the association frowns on doing car work in the common areas.
     
    #14 HTMLSpinnr, May 18, 2004
  15. aja2460

    aja2460 Junior Member

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    some kind of brain lock... it is 5w30 Mobile 1...
    sorry, alan
     
    #15 aja2460, May 18, 2004
  16. Lectricar

    Lectricar New Member

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    Second oil change at 4280 miles

    Compared to other vehicles (honda odyssey, volvo, mgb) really very easy even without the tap I read about on these pages.

    I've been using Mobil 1 and even over 3750 miles (the change interval) the oil has picked up lots of "dirt" - it was dark.
     
    #16 Lectricar, May 25, 2004
  17. Momentum

    Momentum New Member

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    Changing synth oil less than every 7500 miles is a total waste, especially in a car where the engine doesn't run so much of the time. Why save gas but then use oil???
     
    #17 Momentum, May 25, 2004
  18. aarons12

    aarons12 New Member

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    interesting. that seems obvious when i think about it, but i have always been a '3000 mile oil change' person. did not even dawn on me that you wouldn't really count the miles that the engine isn't running... :roll:
     
    #18 aarons12, May 25, 2004
  19. jchu

    jchu New Member

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    Maybe so but it will void your warranty!!
     
    #19 jchu, May 25, 2004
  20. Lectricar

    Lectricar New Member

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    i'm a 3-4k change guy...frankly, it's cheap insurance to do it and false economy not to.
     
    #20 Lectricar, May 26, 2004
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