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Knocking sound, rod bearing or torque converter etc.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Ship_shape, Feb 11, 2024.

  1. Ship_shape

    Ship_shape Junior Member

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    My friend’s 2010 Prius w 164k miles started making this knocking noise and slight vibration. I’ve listened to Rod knocking videos and it’s very similar sound. One non-Prius aware shop told her simply it needs a new engine but no more in the way of diagnosis, and a new engine would cost $6k .

    I went over today and shot a video but can’t seem to attach it to this post . Would a failed connecting Rod cause the engine to vibrate slightly ?

    Is it possible to replace a rod bearing without removing the engine or is it just easier to replace the engine at this point ?

    Thanks.
    IMG_7960.jpeg
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Upload it to YouTube first; then you can link here.
     
  3. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    If the head gasket is leaking, into the cylinders, you'll get the knock.
    Is it constant or only a few seconds on start up?
    Shut it off when it knocks, wait a few seconds, start the car and wait for the engine
    to start, does it knock or run okay? If after 2 or 3 times of stop/start it stops knocking,
    it's likely a head gasket.
    Is the coolant tank low? It's on the passenger side of the car.
    You should try to find someone who knows the Prius.... $6000 is WAY too much for
    engine and labor.

     
    #3 ASRDogman, Feb 12, 2024
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2024
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Just make sure before you embark on this adventure that the rest of the car is worthy of your repairs interiors and good shape there's no leaks water's not getting into the car the armrest on the door panels aren't caving in when you put your arm there to rest the center console hinge isn't broken and ruined and ripped off and goes flying across the car every time you go to open it Little things like that because you can't buy most of that stuff for the generation 3 easily anyway for the generation two believe it or not you can still get most of those items but you will never need them and that's all I can say about that We haven't had a generation 3 that's been worthy really of these kind of repairs We had a 2013 we put an engine in drove it a few months now we're back to noises and so on and so forth but reality is the car isn't really in any kind of shape worthy of the fix other than the woman says it's mine and I want it she's in a generation 2 right now which is in twice the condition of regeneration 3 and still is talking about fixing the generation 3 and I basically told her carry on go right ahead just don't make me be involved because it's going to be a sad trail of tears all the way to your bank account and may still have no running car but be out money.
     
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  5. Ship_shape

    Ship_shape Junior Member

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    The knocking is worst at low rpm.

    With increased rpm ( press brake &gas simultaneously) knocking diminishes.


    OBD codes all point to ignition coils or related:

    P0300, 301, 302, 304

    P0501,502, 504


    Id almost buy a set of coils or swap in known hood coils from my other same year Prius but I found 10 pages of detailed diagnostic procedures (for a 2004) so I’ll go through this first and try to verify the root cause via voltage and resistance testing before replacing parts.
     
    #5 Ship_shape, Feb 20, 2024
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2024
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Try swapping coils in cylinder 2 and 3, see if P0302 becomes P0303. I suspect it won't.

    EGR ever cleaned?
     
  7. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    This is for a generation 3 with all of those misfire codes that's for three of the 4 cylinders and etc The likelihood of that it's pretty slim actually one or two cylinders popping off because of something happening certainly but three are all four just missing it random and the coils all match came from the factory that kind of stuff It's to me that's kind of unlikely usually with this particular engine designation this starts happening when the fires getting put out in cylinders generally from water that's in your cooling system that's now getting into your combustion system and it's not supposed to be eventually or the high likelihood eventually you'll come to this conclusion how much you spend getting there I guess is the trick.
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Double-check that second set; I'm not aware that P050x codes are even possible in a Gen 3 Prius.

    The P030x codes are nothing specific to ignition coils: they just mean that fire isn't happening consistently in those cylinders, for any of a number of reasons. It's up to the human to work out why.
     
  9. Ship_shape

    Ship_shape Junior Member

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    Nope, never cleaned the EGR.

    Im not under any pressure to resolve this, the owner insisted she didn’t want to keep the car and sold it to me for $600 so even if I have to replace the engine it’s a no lose situation.

    I read a pretty persuasive post that said with p035x codes don’t install any new parts etc until you’ve replaced all spark plugs w new denso , then do all denso coils .
     
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  10. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yeah you can do all that I generally run real spark plugs made by NGK or denso and my coils are all aftermarket made by some company that specializes in coil over plug applications and make nice looking stuff very reasonable in price I have them on a bunch of cars and have had no problems with them so generally I don't go swapping out my coils and whatnot for this particular model because usually the fire is getting quenched way up the line from the plugs this just one of those things I'm not going to throw $249 of parts at the thing when my pretty much know the engine is fubar so there's always that see Toyota's pretty consistent once you find this stuff it's pretty consistent across the whole model That's why the generation 3 can't come around here no more it is no good for me this is things you know for people that'll be out of a vehicle before 140 or so thousand they have money making payments get out of payments in the new ones very quickly and so on We do not do that We are in it for the long haul 500 plus thousand we're not looking to make changes every couple years just because but we need everybody else to do that don't get me wrong everybody can't be like me that would not be good.
     
  11. Danno5060

    Danno5060 Member

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    Just make sure that if you decide to replace the engine, the rest of the car is worth the trouble. (Interior not trashed, minimal rust). If that's the case, you really made out.
     
  12. Ship_shape

    Ship_shape Junior Member

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    Reading , researching and considering all your helpful suggestions before committing….

    Dirty EGR - definitely a good candidate, does PC have a tutorial on the whole process, I found a good vid on YouTube.

    Leakig Head Gasket - also possible, but because the engine knock smooths out at high rpm apparently this is less likely. I’d like to try the diagnostic test of blocking the egr flow with a putty knife as per the YouTube video to verify if it’s egr or head gasket.

    car is in good shape.
     
  13. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    Links on @Mendel Leisk signature will be of some benefit.
    Well....maybe not the block heater.
    Then someday the G3 might once again be...... Ship_shape.

    Yank the plugs.
    Bore-scope.
    Done.
    Everybody NEEDS a decent bore-scope....especially in Texas.
    (MORE SO if you have case-gauges, and a ballistic chronograph....!) :D


    The more definitive test would be to spend $30 (or borrow from a parts haus) a cylinder leak down tester.
    THAT is the definitive head gasket go/no-go test.
     
    #13 ETC(SS), Feb 21, 2024
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2024
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Top two links in my signature have EGR cleaning tips and links. To see sig on phone turn it landscape.
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Were P035x codes what you meant in post #5 when you wrote P050x?
     
  16. Ship_shape

    Ship_shape Junior Member

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    Yes post #5 has a typo , sorry . Should have been:

    P0351, 352, 354
     
  17. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Ah. Yes, those are real codes, specific to the confirmation-feedback signals from the igniters.
     
  18. Ship_shape

    Ship_shape Junior Member

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    @Mendel the EGR video you mentioned is quite good.

    Am I correct in noting that the 2010- EGR cleaning process is significantly easier than the prior years?
    From watching various videos, am I correct in noticing that in 2010- there isn’t a large and difficult to access, remove and clean egr valve body. Instead there is only a pipe and the valve can be cleaned without removing from the engine?
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    2010 model year is the commencement of the EGR system, first year of Gen 3. The same EGR system (more-or-less) esists through the rest of gen 3 (2010~2015 model years).

    You do need to pull the full EGR system, cooler, valve and pipe. Plus the intake manifold, which has the final leg of EGR passages on the way to intake ports (which also should be cleaned).

    The first couple of links in my signature have tips/strategies/links. Also tips on how to clean cooler, how to avoid undue coolant spillage.
     
  20. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    If you aren't going to cleaner the cooler, there's no sense in cleaning the rest.
    Or clean the intake manifold ports....

    How easy or hard it is depends on your skills, and tools you have.
    For me, it's easy. For others, it's difficult.
    But it's one of those things that kinda needs to be done.