Many Codes and Problems

how many miles on her? 12.2 is a bad 12 volt. 13.0 is new. you may want to check it with a voltmeter after the car has been off a few hours.

 

do you carry any pets that might clog the cooling fan? is the rear vent unobstructed? how is your oil level?

 

AND while it is running too. His "new" battery might not be charging properly.

12.2 indicates that it is discharged a bit beyond half capacity, NOT that it is bad necessarily.

Anyhow, a good charge on the 12 V and disconnecting it for a minute to reset most of the codes and fault indicators should get it going again......but maybe not for long.

 

you can google the codes if you want. or perhaps someone who knows them will jump in.

 

C0200 and C0205 indicate the front speed sensors have a problem. Usually only one at a time go bad, due to debris or road damage. But both at once is a bit unusual. Visual inspection would be the place to start, by removing the wheels. Look for wire harness damage. Sometimes rodents will chew cables.

The P0A80 and the associated weak cell blocks, along with the battery display jumping around and the battery fan running, are unanimous in saying that it is time to consider your options for battery replacement. Much to read on this site about that lately, as the 9-10 year old cars have failing batteries with increasing frequency.

The other regen related codes are caused by the above. I doubt there are any ECU failures at this point. The Prius electronics seem to be the most reliable part.

The flow control valve problem will cause the check engine light to come on. It can be ignored for the moment as it is not important for car performance.

Always check the battery connections for tightness, especially the negative lead going to the chassis connection bolt.

 

how old is the 12v battery?

 

It is always best to check the battery while it is in the car with a voltmeter, using the jump points under the hood. That checks more of the situation than a vague look by the car parts store.

 

Consider going through the owners manual to be more familiar with the car. It is very helpful.

If you do not have one, you'll have to download the sections from Toytoa, Toyota Owners Resource Center: Owners Manuals, Automotive Glossary, Warranty, Safety Information, and assemble the PDF files into one w/ a PDF editing program or scanner software (like PaperPort).

EDIT: The jumper points in the engine compartment is the easiest way to measure 12V battery voltage, as you don't have to remove all the stuff in the trunk to get to the 12V battery. However, for the most accurate measurement would be at the battery terminals. Don't know how much of a difference battery terminals vs jumper points would produce.

 

The idea is that the jump point voltage also tests the wiring coming from the battery to the front of the car. Knowing that it is good at that point can eliminate such things as corrosion or damage to those long wires, which is very rare but has been reported.

To the OP, I suspect that the 12V battery is not your problem, but we always want to make sure before proceeding. It is clear that your HV battery problem will need to be dealt with, so you should decide how you want to do that.

 

That sounds like a reasonable price. Not sure if that is via Dorman, or an independent. Dorman has some technicians in NC and GA
Dorman Hybrid Drive Batteries - Technicians

 

Symptoms you are describing seems identical to what others have reported w/ a failing HV Battery. You probably are hearing a fan in the back too? Stop driving the car until the battery is replaced.

DON'T use those eBay battery repair people! You will absolutely regret it! They will just swap out the bad cell(s) w/o balancing the entire pack (there are 28 modules in the pack, BTW. The car will work for a short period of time (hours, days, maybe a week or two) then throw the HV battery codes, and you are in the same position again. MANY, MANY, MANY posts about this; module(s) replacement w/o rebalancing the entire pack = guaranteed Groundhog Day (1993 Bill Murray movie).

If you are looking for longevity, a NEW pack from Toyota is BEST. There are many dealerships who sell on-line. Their on-line prices are way less than the retail counter prices. You will just have to Internet search and find a dealer that will sell you the HV Pack; there have been confirmed reports of some dealers being lame by selling this item only to mechanics or auto repair shops. Camelback Toyota (Phoenix) sells HV Battery packs for $2,175; unknown if they will sell to the lay public.

Rebuilt packs, IMO aren't worth it, if you plan to keep the car and want trouble free operation. Yes, can be considerably less than NEW. But, if you are able to get Internet pricing for a New HV Battery from a dealer, NEW isn't that much more than a rebuilt, but has a greater likelihood of longevity.

The original HV pack in your car went 140,000miles. Highly unlikely a rebuilt pack will get that.

Just think of the HV Battery as a clutch disc and pressure plate for a manual transmission. These items will wear out and require replacing. The cost is expensive. But when you look at the number of miles you got, the cost per mile isn't that bad. Also, you wouldn't put in a used clutch disc or pressure plate when doing this repair. This is what the "rebuilt/refurbished/reconditioned" HV Batteries are. They can't replace the wear items as can be done with a remanufactured clutch disc and pressure plate. They just give you modules that seem to have the best life left in them.

$2175new HV Battery/140,000miles = $.015/mile, not bad.

 

The symptoms are also similar to a completely failed 12 V battery.
He should ***NOT*** be paying anybody $1-2000 for a "new" HV battery without first being absolutely sure he needs one.

P.S. And most of the time, people who can actually afford to pay $2K for a repair probably aren't driving a 7 year old car with 150K miles on it.