Mechanics: what are your most common tools?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by PixelRogue, Sep 3, 2016.

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  1. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    Nice! I'd argue that 1/2 inch threaded rods are overkill though. 3/8 inch threaded rod should be more than enough to hold them securely together since there shouldn't be much side load or force on those boards.

    For anyone who wants to make something similar, it would bring down the hardware cost.

    It would also help to reduce the weight a bit as well. How much do the assembled ramps weigh? :whistle:

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Yeah the 1/2" threaded rods (and washers/nuts) are leftovers, from my threaded rod bookcase phase:

    B2EF8B09-113D-438E-B38A-F0EF10B8B49E.jpeg

    I drill the hole with a 5/8" Forstner bit. Drill a smaller through hole first, then do Forstner bit drilling from both sides, to avoid splintering.

    Roughly 8 lbs apiece. The pair on a scale, I did zero it and bounced it a bit:

    AE0F4AA2-0745-4A06-A3C9-A870391A1A43.jpeg

    I'll likely do one mod: dirll an additional 5/8" through hole through the middle 2x4 about 1.5" from one end, then make a wall bracket with a 1/2" dowel. Angle the hole and dowel, say same slope as ramp, so it won't rattle off.
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Got them out of the way:

    F6177FCE-2A27-49CE-AB1C-96190F307AC5.jpeg

    4FC223AF-8EE7-4652-B854-7EA74F6DC5FE.jpeg
     
    #323 Mendel Leisk, Nov 23, 2021
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2021
  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    I'm going to make at least one more set, so my son can have a set at his place, and have pretty much nailed down a workflow, that'll make very close to identical pieces, so you could flip them end-to-end, or put them together in any order, they'd always be uniform.

    This is using a drill press and a sliding arm mitre saw (mounted on a plywood table), making a pair of (roughly) two foot long, 7 1/2" wide (five 2x4's on edge) ramps:

    1. Get two 10' long 2x4's, decent quality, not warped, few tight knots at most, little or no chips out of the edges.

    2. To accommodate saw cut losses (say approximately 1/8" per cut), aim for a piece length of 1'-11 3/4". Start by shaving about 1/16" of one end (to have a nice clean/square end), then tape measure and pencil mark with a square the aforementioned length, for just one piece.

    3. Set the board in the mitre saw, slide it over till the saw teeth are just beyond the pencil mark to achieve the length, then clamp a wood block as a stop at the end of the board.

    4. Cut the first piece, then slide the board over to the stop, and repeat for the rest. You should now have five pieces, pretty much identical, 1'-11 3/4" long, with maybe 1/4" left over. Repeat with the second board.

    5. If you want to hang the ramps, drill a couple of the pieces now, to suit your hanger system, before cutting the ramps or whatever.

    6. With one of the pieces, mark with pencil the ramp cut (2.5"x7.5" chamfer), and the hole location for threaded rod. Just at one end of the piece. If you've made hanger holes, ensure the ramp chamfer is oriented to be on "top" edge, and the hanger hole is on the "bottom" edge.

    7. Make a jig out of scrap wood (per photo in post # 305). Also position a stop piece at the back corner (refer again to the photo, where a 1" wide gauge plate is used). Place all this on the mitre saw bed (per photo), put your piece against it and slide it all left to right till the saw blade is just beyond the chamfer pencil line. Clamp the jig.

    8. Press the piece against the jig, and make the cut. Flip the piece end-to-end (per photo), press against the jig, and cut the other end chamfer. Repeat per the other 9 pieces.

    9. As a check: stack all the pieces side-by-side: they should all be very close to identical, both the lengths and chamfers, regardless of order and/or if you reverse the ends.

    10. At the drill press, position the marked piece to drill a 3/16" through hole. Place and clamp wood blocking at the far end and along side of the piece, so that subsequent pieces can be placed against the blocking and drilled with identically located holes. Similar to the chamfer cut, also flip the pieces end-to-end to drill the second hole in each piece. Example blocking:

    61C9D727-77F5-41E3-A66F-29293BA6711B.jpeg

    11. Remove the clamps and blocking, then drill 5/8" through holes with a Forstner bit. Drill the holes partially, from both sides to avoid blow-out, using the 3/16" pilot hole for alignment.

    Think that's it.
     
    #325 Mendel Leisk, Nov 24, 2021
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2021
  6. WilDavis

    WilDavis Senior Member

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    Nice job, @Mendel Leisk , but you may wanna be careful putting so much good info out here on t'Net! You might find in a couple of weeks some foreign "knock-offs" appearing at your local HF! :eek: Be that as it may, I like your plans and execution! Good job! :);)
     
  7. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    I like this idea so much more than those big plastic ramps. It’s so little lift that there’s no worry if you drive off of it or if it slides out. I had Rhino Ramps and hated them; their hard plastic used to slide around when trying to drive up them.
     
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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Soon enough you start building things to build things. Might make up this jig (or something similar...) to automate drilling the threaded rod holes. Jig will ensure consistent hole location, without the need to measure, and without having to use pilot holes, drill finished size hole from both sides. The piece being sandwiched between plywood should minimize blow-out.

    upload_2021-11-25_9-34-25.png

    My drill press has a 12" wide particle board "deck"; the plywood extensions at left/right ends are clamping zones.

    To bore the through-hole in the jig I'd put a (sacrificial) scrap of 2x4 in the jig, drill through all three layers at once.
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Gave my head a shake: way too complicated, for maybe 20 more holes. Just getting consistently located pilot holes will do. Slotted angle and a couple of clamps:

    4AC0A019-C057-4DAE-9FC2-6689BCDB61A0.jpeg E06CE209-2EBE-4C06-A237-DB7A96884911.jpeg
     
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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Got a little more organized; took an hour or two, very good uniformity with a few jigs.

    A7DE5E5C-F879-42F8-AF18-DDC36FEF1280.jpeg 1F4C6716-C30B-4B6F-9090-4155A5C2D684.jpeg A6BBE8A8-D8E2-46E0-A47F-D15D8F9B06B5.jpeg 4FEBCC5F-2A9A-4525-A42C-524A760894E6.jpeg 9863A740-38EB-4D7F-9668-217B803766EE.jpeg 3E2F4906-B275-419C-96C9-AA8ABB9CE994.jpeg 1DF1EC20-B5DF-442B-B000-041E2FB782D4.jpeg 3EBB3DEC-FCBE-4CB1-A66A-1C0365459FCF.jpeg DCC03B20-466E-4537-819B-F35CA711B5F2.jpeg 4E67F79B-CFBB-4436-8A2C-05EEC1C64D86.jpeg BDEC3C39-875C-43BE-8A6E-44603DB85F53.jpeg F81A6F9E-E02E-45C8-8246-3A27B009DE7E.jpeg 9E82F23A-DACC-4503-82BC-504E07251D6D.jpeg
     
  11. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    A jig is a kind of dance. I know; fixtures are a secondary definition, but I think it would be more fun to see you do a jig. :LOL:

    Anyway, it looks like you're getting serious about this project. Looks nice!!
     
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  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    At one point I thought my jig was up.

    Before starting to cut the pieces to length I measured the overall 2x4 lengths: 10'-0 1/2", on the money. I'd been expecting 10" exactly, and thinking I would need to use a length somewhat shy of 2', to get five equal pieces and account for (four) saw cut widths. Quickly calculating, I figured with that extra 1/2" length, and each saw cut maybe 1/8", I should be fine to make them exactly 2'-0".

    I guess Someone was looking over my shoulder when I measured the first 2'-0", placed the saw blade at the edge of the pencil line, and set the stop jig. I did the first four cuts, and...: the saw blade was just brushing the end of the last piece, NOTHING to shave off the end. But it was touching. And the ends were sharp/square cuts.:whistle:

    upload_2021-11-28_9-14-21.png

    You mean three 2x4's on edge per ramp? I'm doing five, for 7.5" width.
     
    #332 Mendel Leisk, Nov 28, 2021
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2021
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  13. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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  14. rjparker

    rjparker Senior Member

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    The other day I was jigging at my job at the cabinet shop, decided to go fishing and jig for dinner, followed by a trip to the coal mine to repair their jig. Tomorrow I am headed to the tye die shop to adjust their dyeing rig. I would never use the politically incorrect slang for jig which, of course I am not going to define.


    89C16821-9C95-4E2F-BA23-7EE02F00E1CF.jpeg
     
    #334 rjparker, Nov 28, 2021
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2021
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  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    What about a shot glass jigger...

    Here's the cost break-down, in CDN funds. I was in a bit of a fools-paradise regarding the hardware items cost; I have a treasure trove of threaded rod, nuts and washers from previous projects, but yeah, "they don't grow on trees"*:

    upload_2021-11-28_12-5-24.png

    As @xliderider pointed out, 3/8" dia hardware would be sufficient, save some $'s.

    * I used to try that expression on the grandkids, when doling out something like oranges, bananas, apples...
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  17. rjparker

    rjparker Senior Member

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    Careful about spreading fake facts on the internet because the younger generation often runs with it... especially when its partially true...
     
  18. lech auto air conditionin

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    Some of the older generation to unfortunately.
    How does Go ?. But I read it on the Internet so it Hass to be true ?.
     
  19. Aegean

    Aegean Active Member

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    I have hundred of tools but these have been very helpful on my Prius:








     
  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    All I see above is white space. :(
     
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