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Motor Mounts - Engine & Inverter Coolant - Inverter and Heater Pump

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by priusCpilot, Jul 5, 2023.

  1. priusCpilot

    priusCpilot Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2012
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    Location:
    LA
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius c
    Model:
    Four
    Hi guys just did some service my self on my wifes 2005 252k Miles car.

    We had a cat shield so the old worn mounts would rattle the shield from the exhaust down pipe hitting.

    Drives smooth when going from EV to Hybrid. It was challenging but here are tips.

    Doing the drivers side mount, you need to move the inverter to the passenger as much as much as you can. I move some clips and sensor to make space for it. It is easer to remove the inverter but that is a lot more involved. I rested the inverter on the AC line next to it. You have to move small stuff to give you space. Annoying as the inverter moves while your working. You must have an impact wrench or it is super hard with ball wobble sockets. Universal join will bind. Also the OEM mount comes with a lower bracket to the body. I didn't change that since it did not have the rubber main mount part. It will be hard to remove the bracket or not possible with the inverter not removed so I skipped it.

    While in there I changed the inverter and 3 way heater pump for preventive service. Lots of info on doing that and easier to do with the inverter moved over. They can fail and changing ever 100-150k miles is a good idea.

    Passenger mount is easier. Just move loosen the intake hose and pull off the air box. Remove the duct next to the hose and remove the windshield bottle. The bottle has a clip that goes on the core support. I had to used a long needle nose and pinch together the middle 2 pins and push push down. Make sure they are squeezed together good. It hard to get off. After that move the brake revivor to make some more space to remove the bottle. If you look at the new mount you can see there are 2 bolts that you need a long extinction to reach from under. You also need a floor jack to support the engine and move it a bit up and down to remove the mount. I also loosened the lower mount as well incase I needed space to move the engine with jack.


    Anyhow I made sure to put everything back bolt wise in the same spot it all came out of to make sure it goes back like factory.

    Drivers side bolts are 59 lb/ft the passenger side are 38 lb/ft and the under mount some call dog bone is 76lb/ft

    When you drain the coolant they drain on 3 spot. I removed the drivers fender liner and a nylon clip set from amazon. There are good vids and info here on how to drain all 3 but make sure you have a couple of feet a hose that has a 3/8 ID which fits on all 3 drain nipples. Wasted time going back and forth with the size but home depot had the 3/8 I/D and 1/2 O/D clear vinyl. For the fill you must buy the AIR LIFT. It will make things much easier to fill. Lots of vids and info online for it.

    For the spark plugs Im trying the NGK RUTHENIUM FF5AHX. I vacuumed the plug holes and area to not have particles fall. They take 13 lb/ft installed.

    Hope it helps.
     
    SFO likes this.