My Auto Fold and Tilt Mirror Project is DONE!

I like! Very slick! Good job

 

That is so sweet! Nice work. I am very jealous.

 

got any static pix? Or heck, how 'bout bringin' it up to
Hybridfest to show off?
.
_H*

 

That's impressive!
I want the turn signal mirrors!!

 

What was the cost and how long did it take you to make the conversion. It's so sweet!

 

OMG!!!! Thats awesome!!!
Is there a tutorial on the way?
paaallllleeeeeease!

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(vinny @ Jul 18 2007, 03:28 PM) [snapback]481165[/snapback]</div>

Cool, but what are they for?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scm2000 @ Jul 18 2007, 03:41 PM) [snapback]481179[/snapback]</div>

In Europe and Japan, especially, they're for parking in tight spaces, tiny roads, etc.
In the US they're good for drive-through car washes. And also for impressing the hell out of your fellow Priusites.

Vinny, that's too wicked, dude!

 

OK, this is making me nuts. I have the EBay turn signal mirrors on my car and they work terrific-love them. But they apparently do not have the electric module the JDM units apparently come with which apparently allows you to add the auto-fold and auto-tilt. Essentially they were only the outside shell.

My mirrors are Tidelands Pearl and have a clear-bra applied to them so theyhave no chips. If someone just wants the turn signal mirrors, these are ready to roll and I will sell them for $120. You can't buy them in Tidelands since that color is discontinued. These are already painted (body shop) and look great. If I can sell these, I will buy the JDM units and the two auto features and install those on my car. Anyone interested?

[attachmentid=9872]

 

thats a nice touch... i like... better yet.. i want it haha
nice job it looks like something a really expensive and gas consuming european car would do :lol:

 

Vince, glad that worked out! It all looks great!

Just so the info is out there, here's the detailed email I sent to Vince as to what the issues are and what pins need to be swapped. It may all look confusing but it isn't. What's different are the way this mod taps into existing wires in the car. Unlike the reverse tilt module which uses a wire tap similar to one you get at Radio Shack, this mod uses all pins.

I've just had a busy summer this summer. I had hoped to do up documents with photos on all my mods but haven't had the time so far...

Vince will also have some comments on cutting part of the mirror housing so that that mirrors fold flat against the car doors. From a previous thread, one of the JDM mirrors doesn't fold flat.

Also Vince, do you remember which wire from the motor terminal goes to pins #9 and which goes to #10?

-------------------------------


THE BASICS:

The module does fold both mirrors.
The US version of the car is wired differently than the JDM one:
In that, there's no wires in the car that connect to the folding motors in the mirrors. So, we have to
run the wires ourselves.
And, one of the wires called for in the JDM manual is different in the US version.
The mirrors fold and unfold when the car is locked/unlocked.
The module needs a constant power source, even when the car is not running.
The module uses another power source to monitor when the car is on or off.
While the connections look complex, the module is just tapping into existing wires similar to the auto-tilt
module.
Other than running two wires from the passenger's mirror through the car to the driver's side, all the
connections are made in the driver's side door.

IN A LITTLE MORE DETAIL, the taps included with this module are just slightly more complicated than with the auto tilt module or the LED signal mirrors. Rather than using taps, the existing US wires are unplugged from connectors, the JDM wires are plugged in in their place and the US wires are plugged back into using the additional connectors supplied with the module.

The module gets constant power from the power window control switches in the driver's side door. The module monitors whether the car is on or off by tapping into the mirror up/down control on the driver's side door. It also connects to ground here, too.

The connections are straightforward except that we have to run our own wires from the mirror folding motors located in the mirror housings to the module located in the driver's side door.

The constant power tap called for in the JDM manual doesn't match the US wiring diagram. We need to tap into another wire on the same harness.

IN DETAIL:
In the JDM module manual, Page 5 instructs on accessing the door lock. These wires specifically go to the door lock motor.

Page 6 shows plugging two wires from the module into the door lock connector and plugging back in the two US wires that were removed on page 5. This is a different way of just tapping into the existing wires. The existing wires are pin #1 (green) and pin #4 (Yellow). From diagram JDM 6-1, it looks like the white wire from the module replaces the yellow wire and the White wire with the black stripe replaces the green wire. In 6-2, the yellow and green US wires get plugged into the 2 pin harness supplied with the module to maintian the original connection. When all said and done, the US Yellow wire should make the connection back to its original pin in the US harness and the same for the US Green wire.

Diagram JDM 7-2 shows where to secure the wires.

Diagram JDM 7-3 shows where the module just gets plugged in between the wires running from the car body to the up/down mirror control switch. In our cars, this is one of the wires that we disconnect from the console everytime we take the driver's side door apart. This is the 10 pin connector. The module taps into this to get power to run the folding motors and the ground. The US pink wire (pin #7) brings the power in and the White/Black wire (Pin #8) is the ground. The JDM module matches up with this.

What's missing is that there are no wires in the #9 and #10 spots. These are the wires that run out to the folding mirrors. So, we'll need to run our own wires from the mirror motors (More on this later...). There are two terminals for each folding motor. Wires from these two motor terminals need to be tapped into the wires going into the #9 and #10 pins of connectors B and C of the JDM module. On the JDM wiring diagram(Page #14), These are labeled as "MF" and "MR." I can only guess that these stand for "Mirror Forward" and "Mirror Reverse." So, run two wires from the driver's side mirror motor and connect to the JDM wires plugged into connector C in the #9 and #10 spots. And then, two wires need to be run from the passenger's side motor to the #9 and #10 in JDM connector B. The thing is, I can't remember which motor terminal would be connected to #9 and which would be connected to #10 (!) (Vince, do you remember?). So, temporarily attach the wires to the B and C connectors and swap them around on pins #9 and #10 until you've got the both mirrors folding when the car is locked.


Page 8 of JDM diragram shows the tap into the power window connector. This is the other harness with the larger gauge wires that we disconnect from the control panel when we tear the driver's door apart. According to the JDM diagram, we need to remove pin #10 from the US connector and plug the JDM pin into that. Looking at page #14 of the JDM diagram, this is where the module gets it constant power from--Meaning, there is always a voltage supplied to the module, even when the car is off. The problem is pin #10 goes to the left hand side, rear power window motor. Looking at the US diagram, there isn't constant power there. So, the Japanese car is wired differently than ours. As I look at the diagram, the only feasible place that has constant power coming is the #7 pin (violet), labeled "BW."

If this fails, get power from the door courtesy light. I'm currently using this for constant power for another mod. Tap into the red wire of the door courtesy light. This is the wire with the power.

So, from this, you can either follow the JDM diagram using pin #7, if it works, or just use a Radio Shack tap on the door courtesy light wire.

On page 14 of the JDM, part A is the module. Here's what I think the labels stand for:
Pin#
1-Mirror Forward heading to the Switch (And the driver's side motor)
2-Mirror Reverse heading to the Passenger's side Motor
3-Mirror Forward heading to the Passenger's side Motor
4- +B Constant power
5-Ground Motor (Although, there is no ground for the motor but this is the ground coming from the car body.)
6-Accessory Power Motor (This is the power that becomes active when the car is powered up.)
7 Motor Reverse heading to the Switch (And the driver's side motor)
8-Door Lock
9-Door Unlock
11-Ground heading to the Switch
12-Accessory Power heading to the Switch

As for running wires from the folding mirrors, I used a pretty light gauge wire. Something around 20. The motors don't draw that much power. I ran the wires through the protective vinyl that houses the wires of the LED signal mirror. To make the connection to the terminals of the folding mirror, it looks tough since the terminals are so far recessed inside the motor mount and are close together. What I did was scrounged up some female pins. Extra pins can be found in the connector at the base of the turn signal indicator on the steering wheel. Thes can be pinched with pliers to shape them to fit over the bigger pins of the motor terminals. Two other options, are to visit a salvage yard. Any small pins off of a late model Toyota will work. The third option is to size up the size pins you need and order some from Newark.com. I went the last route. These didn't fit perfectly but I just squeezed them a bit with pliers so that they fit snugly on the motor terminals.

I soldered these onto wires and covered the exposed wire and terminal with shrink tubing. Because I live in the Northeast and there's tons of road salt and sand in winter, I then filled the whole terminal cavity with silicon. See the photos I've included. There's one that shows a portion of the back of the mirror mount, the two terminals down inside (barely), the two wires with terminals attached, covered in shrink tubing and an unused terminal. To check the connections, hook up a 9v battery to the wires. The motor should whirr.

Lastly, I've posted this several times but in case you haven't seen it, there's a real easy way of running wires through the rubber boot that connects the car door to the car body. A Home Depot, or the like, buy a 12-14" zip tie. It had just the right stiffness and flexibility to do the job without folding or doing damage to the boot. Slide the pointed end through the boot and use electrical to attach the wires to the zip tie. Then, pull the tie back through along with the wires.

When I get back to the States, I'll alter my folding mirrors so that they automatically close and I don't have use the manual switch. I'm also thinking that I'll keep the switch to turn the module on/off so that they mirrors don't always fold when the car is locked.

The photos:

First is a 14" zip tie with a 6" for comparison. Use this to feed wires through the rubber boot between the door and car body.

Second: Electrical tape used to tape two wires to one end of zip tie to pull through the door. The other end of the zip tie is still inside the car body. Grab it and pull.

Third: Rear side of mirror motor mount. This shows the fold motor terminals, the wires with female pins on them and covered in shrink tubing. Need shrink tubing as the terminals are quite close together. Unused
pin obtained from Newark.com also shown.

The last page of the JEM auto fold manual (pg. #14) with parts identified and notes in English.

Cheers,
-bob

 

Fantastic, you guys! When I stopped following this project a while back, there was still the problem of both not folding correctly. When I saw the videos and realized this has been solved... yeow! If there is a complete writeup with pictures of all the good stuff, I'd be happy to host it on my site.

 

Tideland Prius: Uhhh what?