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My first ever Prius and first ever Toyota. First maintenance task: Spark plugs

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by VFerdman, Jul 18, 2017.

  1. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    I just took delivery of the 2007 Prius with 175K miles from an original owner who did not realize these things have spark plugs. He took excellent care of the car and had basic maintenance done at various indie shops, so the spark plugs may have been changed, but I did not have a record of it being done and decided to do it before I drove the car too much more. I bought Denso SK16R11 plus at Advanced Autoparts for about $9/each. I was very happy to find out that the task was very simple and required only a 10mm socket and a 5/8 spark plug wrench, some extensions and a torque wrench. Start to finish in well under an hour. The old plugs were NGK IFR5A, which from what I understand is an older number for the NGK plug. From the looks of the old plugs they may have been in there from new. The car still ran perfectly and I only changed them because I know those are 120K mile plugs max and there was a good chance they were in there for 175K miles.

    My first experience with servicing this vehicle is very positive. It was not that difficult to get at things and process was straight forward. I hope these plugs go the 120K miles they are designed for.
     
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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    some have said it is difficult to break them free, even at 120k.
     
  3. 2k1Toaster

    2k1Toaster Brand New Prius Batteries

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    I replaced mine at about 108K miles because well, like you say that's what you're supposed to do. They looked so good, I kept in the box of the new ones and somewhere around 300K miles maybe I'll swap the old ones back in.
     
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  4. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    Hope you need new plugs again..... ;)
     
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  5. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    I did not have trouble getting them free. It took a little effort to break loose, but not extraordinary. They came out just fine. I used anti-seize on the new ones as I always do on plugs.
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Did you have a torque spec, or just a certain angle of turn once they bottomed. The latter's probably safer if you've lubed them. FWIW third gen torque spec (assumed dry thread, lube not mentioned) is 15 ft/lb. I remove/reinstalled ours, with a sparing amount of anti-seize, and used 13 ft/lb. Basically I put a thin coat on, then wiped them clean fairly agressively with a rag, counting on there being some residual in the thread grooves.
     
  7. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    I used a torque wrench set to 156 in*lb = 13 ft*lb. I really don't think the torque spec is critical here as long as

    1. crush washer is crushed and
    2. plug not over-tightened causing undue stress on aluminum head
     
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  8. fotomoto

    fotomoto Senior Member

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    Go ahead and try to change the headlight bulbs. We'll wait....... :)

    Put a transaxle fluid change on your to do list.
     
  9. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    Yes, I know I picked the easy low hanging fruit to do first, but, hey, it's a start :)

    What type of fluid goes into the transaxle? I assume it is a drain and replace type operation (usually gets part of the whole volume like 50%), not pump all out and renew close to 100%. I keep hearing that Toyota does not specify an interval on that fluid, leading many to believe it's not needed. I don't mind doing the work, but I am not an over-maintainer. If it's not called for I would say just leave it be.
     
  10. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    Pictures of my spark plugs after (most likely) 175K miles.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  11. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Very good I would also change the belt no matter how it looks. Its only job is to turn the water pump. If the belt fails the pump stops pumping and you will never know till the you see an overheat icon on the dash which is too late usually head damage will result. No temp gauge in this car very very bad design. Its cheap and easy to replace and really pays off. I would not be surprised if its the original belt. You really have to remove it and bend it backwards to see how bad it is.
    Then move on to Inverter coolant replacement that will really give you a great bang for your cheap buck as your mileage will increase.
    Another really easy to do thing.
     
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  12. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    Great! thank you. I know that the water pump was replaced on 9/21/2016. Is that the engine WP or the inverter WP? Is there a WP on the inverter? I would think they'd change the belt at that time, but I do not see it on the invoice.
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    4 quarts Toyota ATF WS. This is drain and replace, and substantially all of the fluid will be replaced during the drain. If you don't have a service record showing that this has been done, it is way past due. You'll be shocked at the color of the old fluid, compared to new ATF fluid.
     
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  14. VFerdman

    VFerdman Senior Member

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    Thanks, Patrick. I will replace it ASAP since the PO just contacted me and said he never changed it because Toyota schedule did not call for it unless the car was used for towing or lots of hill climbing, neither of which he did. I must say that the color of the modern lubricants is not a good indicator as most of them contain detergents and will absorb dirt from the normal use very quickly. If you look at that transmission fluid after 2K miles, it'll likely look as dirty as after 100K. ATF is pretty tough stuff and in this transaxle does not really experience as much shearing as in conventional transmission. Toyota's recommendation is probably good. I have a car with a manual gear box and the manufacturer does not have an oil change on that ever. That car has close 190K now and is going strong. Over-maintaining can be as bad as under-maintaining. I think at 175K miles the Prius probably could benefit from a transmission fluid change.

    So is there another type of ATF that is acceptable or just Toyota? I imagine Toyota stuff is expensive.
     
  15. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    I did mine at 135k.
    Those old plugs look iffy to me. Are they Iridium tipped? I don't see the Iridium. It says Iridium I think.

    Apparently one plus of Gen2 is ease of spark plug replacement vs. Gen3.
     
  16. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I hadn't heard that before. I can't figure how it helps unless there's something wrong with it. Can you fill me in?
     
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  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Toyota cautions to not use anything but Toyota ATF WS, or risk damage. I'd take that to the bank, lol. It's not that expensive; last time I did ours it was $9.14 (Can) per litre, at the dealership parts department. They'll have replacement washers for fill and drain bolt too. Those buggers can be expensive, lol.

    Just be sure to have the car raised and level, and fill till it starts coming back out. That is optimum level.
     
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  18. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    I noticed an immediate increase in mileage after replacing the Inverter fluid. The coolant went from tepid circulation to very aggressive circulation looked like the water was on full boil after new fluid. Also the Inverter ran 5 degree's cooler as tested by my Fluke IR thermometer.

    Inverter is the heart and soul of a Prius. More cool it runs the more effiecient it is.Think about it... its using water to cool electronics. No moving parts parts just high current Igbt's. The Inverter heatsink has a huge cross section of pure aluminum.

    I also installed a bottle of Redline Water Wetter. Same color too. Running that in the rad and the Inverter. That stuff is great. Inverter really liked it. Been in the inverter 70,000 miles now. Still has boiling water aggression on circulation. The first initial replacement of Inverter coolant has all the aluminum wear in the fluid. I did mine at 30,000 miles. Same as the trans fluid the first change has all the break in wear.
    The aluminum contamination in the Inverter fluid slows circulation is very abrasive to the pump and water does not cool very well contaminated. Huge difference with new coolant.

    No to mention the extensive cooling channels in the transmission this coolant services. Very big coolant chases surrounding the windings assembly. The windings are held up against these chases to heatsink the windings so the Inverter coolant system as a whole does a very critical job to maintain the Inverter and the trans.
    Toyota must have realized much later how important the cooling efficiency was because in the G3 they have a separate Inverter cooling radiator unlike the G2 which has the Inverter rad in the same case as the engine rad so there's alot of cross heatsinking from the engine there. My suspicion is if you installed a separate Inverter radiator you would probably gain another 5 mpgs. i thought about that for quite a while but theirs absolutely no room to put it anywhere under the hood.

    Inverter coolant replacement is critical imho.
     
    #18 edthefox5, Jul 19, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2017
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  19. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Any fluid that says WS Compatible will work fine. I have used Redlne D6 for over 10000 miles with excellent UOA's posted in the stickies.
    Lots of people over at Bitog use Walmart Brand WS with good results no issues at all. Nothing special about WS it is used in very wide variety of Toyota cars and Trucks its basically Dex6 which has a much lower viscosity for better mileage.

    Google Redline D6 reviews.
     
  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Anything wrong with Toyota ATF WS?