New at Hybrid World and i need an advice from you....

Welcome to PC Abdullah.

From the picture you supply there seems to be little damage mostly small areas ringed in green marker. The front bumper is removed as are the headlamps, but the bumper reinforcing bar looks undamaged.

I would get the car running first before having the bodywork attended to as this makes it easy to get at mechanical and electrical items, also you will not damage the new paintwork sorting out other problems.

You will almost certainly need a new 12 volt battery as this will have been stood discharged for some time, and the Prius battery does not stand up to this treatment well.

Make very sure if you try to jump start the Prius you connect the cables correctly the first time as there is no second chance. Wrong connection (reverse polarity) can be very expensive.

Be careful if you have to do any work on the air con system as this requires a special oil (ND11) and standard air con oil will ruin the system in a big way, again very expensive. Any problems ask as there are many help full people here on PC.

If you wish to thank someone click on the like button at the bottom right of there post.

John (Britprius).

 

Further to my previous post if you have to do any work on the brake system ask here first. The brakes may appear normal brakes they are not. You can work on these yourself if you follow the correct processes.

 

Make sure all the fluids are full before starting, but do not over fill the engine oil better a little under the mark on the dip stick than over.

Put your foot firmly on the brake and with the fob in the slot on the dash press the start button. If you have changed the battery the dash lights will come on but it will not start. Do not worry, press the start button again (should turn it off) then press it a third time and wait. After about 7 seconds if all is well the engine should start.

 

Yes you should be ok to drive.

 

No. If no warning lights appear, all that means is that the various ECUs have not detected an electrical problem. It is likely that there will be some warning lights. For example, it appears that the passenger side airbag deployed so at mininum you will see a warning light from the SRS ECU.

It also looks like the front hood was removed from its hinges and placed over the engine compartment opening. The photo shows something hanging over the hood, not windshield wiper arms, perhaps the hood hinges?

The front hood sheet metal is in pretty good condition, so if it was removed, why? The only reason I can think of is for access to remove large parts - like the engine.

Do you have photos showing the engine compartment condition without the front hood in the way? Were engine or other significant parts (like the radiator) removed from the car? There is a lot of open space visible under the hood with the front right headlight assembly removed.

Further, the accident may have caused mechanical or structural damage that the ECU sensors cannot detect. Therefore you need to carefully inspect the front end carefully, looking for damage that would make the car unsafe to drive. If you have any doubt it would be better to have the car towed, rather than risk causing more damage.

 

OK. At minimum, the following parts are missing:
- headlight assemblies
- large black plastic cover over the radiator
- two piece black plastic cowl cover over the windshield wiper motor assembly
- two windshield wiper arms and blades

Nothing really "important" seems to be missing though, so there is some chance the car might be able to be driven.

I assume this car is coming from the United States given the VIN and the coolant heat recovery canister visible in the lower right corner of your photo.

Good luck.

 

You still will need to do a mechanical inspection of the front end before you drive 60 miles - or risk being stuck along the side of the road.

The link you provided contains a complaint from someone who thought that "run and drive" means the car actually can be driven. He was sadly mistaken.

What is the exact definition of "run and drive"? It is one thing to say that the car can be driven 20 feet to get on a transporter truck. It is a much different thing to say the car can be driven for a long distance such as 60 miles.

In my opinion, you are taking a huge risk buying a car over the web, with no opportunity to personally inspect it prior to purchase.

 

Patrick the car has a certificate that says runs and drives that suggest the engine/transmission is all ok as far as can be seen.

I was not suggesting that if there is suspension damage etc that the car could be driven this can only be determined by the OP, and by the laws in operation in his country.

In the UK it would be illegal to drive the car on the road with no headlamps, registration, road tax, insurance, MOT and much, much more, but these are decisions the OP must make.

 

Abdullah you may well find the missing parts with luck are in the rear of the car, having bought many salvage vehicles myself (at least 40) and a lot of these were partly dismantled for closer inspection by the insurance company and parts were put in the rear of the vehicles.

Admittedly these vehicles were bought from a friend that at the time owned the biggest insurance salvage yard in the UK.

 

This is why I suggested doing any mechanical or electrical work before you do the bodywork.

You will not be happy if you scratch your new paintwork trying to repair a mechanical or electrical problem.

From what I can see in the pictures there are no major items missing and those items that are not shown "headlamps ect" may well be in the back of the car, but you will not know until it is delivered.

 

When the car is delivered let us have some more pictures showing any damage and a list of anything missing and any problems you may have. It is then that hopefully we can be of the most help to you.