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Not possible... but my tranny is slipping...

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Merc05h, Nov 26, 2008.

  1. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    *Mod Note: Duplicate threads merged.
    Ok guys, first let me establish my bone-fides. I grew up on a junk-yard and have loved cars since before the cast iron powerglide. I have been an ASE Master Auto Tech (started 1977 when no one knew what they were). Now I am a Mechanical Engineer. So I know what my 2001 Prius is doing isn't possible. However, I'm comming home on the highway at 55 with no problems and running great at 144000mi, and suddenly on a small downhill with no bumps or anything, all ($%^&) breaks loose. All the lights on the dash and the display light up. Engine runs rough, I pull over immediately, engine continues to run, but at higher rpm at idle. I restart and again all lights, but engine continues to run.. I try to get to a parking area on the other side of the highway, with a jerky motion as I floorboard it just to get it to move. Get parked. After several restarts, finally get most of the lights out and the engine will idle and charge the traction batt. Thinking I can 'back up' on the traction batt to a better position for the roll-back to pick me up I try it. Again jerk, slip, jerk, slip, etc.... While I'm waiting, I slip on my high pot gloves (keepem in the trunk) and take out the service key from the trac batt and disconnect the 12v neg for a complete reboot. Wait 5 -10 min or so. Re hook up. Restart. No lights,what so ever. Now will shift to R , N, D, but just as soon as you touch the acc pedal in any gear, all lights and engine dies..... No codes! (yea, shouldn't have pulled the juice while waiting on the tow truck till I tried codes... oh well.. ) Once in a while, engine will run when you touch the gas pedal, but will not pull the car in R or D, just revs up and slips. Unless I sheared a shaft, and that should make noise. No noise. Yea, probably main inverter, but it checks out. Maybe gas pedal, does it have a transmission computer? When idling, by pushing down on the pedal the rpm go from about 900 to about 1200 in park. Never did that before. Otherwise, I've tried all I know and all I can find on this and other websites. Even all dealer knows. Dealer wants to start parts changing, I said unless he has a way to test parts, no change. Just wanted to add to an already too long post... 12V batt is new Optima changed about 4 mo ago, Trac batt checks out OK, Inverter/convert check ok, 'Ready' light comes on ign, engine comp check out ok, had HV comp replaced at about 60k miles. Engine runs great, my daily driver, avg 48mpg, driver not stupid, (generally)... and that is all... Anybody help?
     
  2. patsparks

    patsparks An Aussie perspective

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    You may have stripped out a spline in a wheel hub. Have you changed a CV joint lately? If you don't tighten the nut in the centre of the front hub the shaft can wear into the hub until the splines wear away. Not seen this on a Toyota but have on Suzuki and Nissan but can't see why it can't happen to Toyota.
    Remove centre caps and look for metal shavings, if it is stripped you will need new wheel bearings, hub and I would replace the CV joint.
     
  3. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Welcome. You gots alot of reading to do here Lucy!
    I'm afraid you may have some $$$ problems. Sounds to me like you lost your Inverter coolant pump and the Inverter overheated. Smelled any overheating during the event? I say that because we have seen alot of those go lately. There is no temp warning on the Inverter coolant so you do not know the pump has failed until the Inverter overheats and fails.Very expensive part and has been discussed here in depth many many times.
    Check it out quickly by starting it back up and checking real carefully for flow/turbulence in the coolant tank. Should have noticeable movement in the tank when the car is in READY. It always circulates. Also please post maintenance level of car. When was that coolant last changed. When was the trans fluid last changed etc.
    We could have nailed it if you had preserved the codes.
    Good luck & report back.

    P.S.--Why wear hi pot gloves to remove boot battery terminal? No high voltage thereabouts.
     
  4. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    Thanks for the idea brother, but I haven't had any axle work done and checked that first as I thought I may have busted a shaft in the tranny and it caused the diff to let the broken shaft spin.... And again, no noise....
     
  5. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    Most likely this is an ECU or inverter problem. If you drop control of MG1, then the ICE will spin it as a dead load and all you get is that slipping transmission feeling. It is possible that you have had a mechanical failure, but electronics are more likely.

    Tom
     
  6. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    Coolant in inverter flowing well. Fans come on when ign turned on. Inverter/converter checked by 2 dealers and both said it was ok. Called Toyota Customer Svc. (HA!) and they could not believe it was happening.
    After being transfered at least 10 times, I got the message and hung up. Each area I was transfered to, the inverter group, the MG1 group, the MG2 group, had no answers. Heck I think I even talked to their accounting group! Anyway, of course I have no way of proving that it is good, (home today to play hookie with paperwork.... ) I pulled the top off of it a few minutes ago and no burnt anything, no smell, etc. I tried it again and same results. The high pots are back there because I often work on locomotive systems and need them for my job sometimes... lot's of places to get dead on thoes diesel / electric's. I have a lot of info on the 2001 Prius, including all shop manuals. I haven't had the time to sit and figure this out. I had hoped someone out there had something simular happen and was able to do a "Master Reboot" or something and fix it. Thanks, Merc05h
     
  7. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    Tom,
    Your the closest to hitting what I surmized and the Dealer Service Writer (after many false starts $$$$$) said, right on the head. However, for many of my hard earned American Dollars, they checked the Inverter/Converter (twice....boo-hoo....$$$$) and told me I needed a new transaxle. ($8500 a conservative est. by my local dealers) I don't believe it could just go like that. Particularly with no noise. I wanted proof and they told me there was no way to just 'check' the transaxle. They just ship them back to Toyota and Toyota ships them back. They don't work on them. Being that it has 144000 miles, though runs and drives like a new one (when it pulls that is...) I hate to put that kind of money in one. Again, I was hoping someone had the same problem and had a solution that didn't include a new $8500 transaxle. (of course if it comes down to it, I'll try to get a reman or a unit out of a wrecked gen 1) -- Merc05h
     
  8. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    Fellas,
    I really appriciate your help, but I know I'm long winded by nature and I'm trying to keep the posts short. I really appriciate all your input, and perhaps there is not an 'easy' or even 'marginally hard' way to fix this problem. However, I hope you don't take me as short or dismissive of your ideas. I'm not a 'know it all' when it comes to Prius's or car's in general. My car knowledge is dated about 20 years and though I have a good knowledge of diesel/electrics. I don't know Hybrid cars. So please don't take my 'been there, tried that' answers as being a smart a**. Just trying to be brief and factual. I saw a 'Master Reboot' post somewhere, I can't find again that started out as 'lock and unlock the driver door with your key, turn on the ign twice, put in neutral, turn on the ign twice, etc... ending up in park and holding the ign on for 30 sec and this supposedly 'rebooted' all the computers. Anyone else seen this? Where? -- Merc05h
     
  9. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Let me make sure I understand by outlining your posting:

    PROBLEM:

    • on the highway at 55 MPH
    • on a small downhill with no bumps or anything, . . . all the lights on the dash and the display light up
    • engine runs rough
    • stopping, engine continues to run, but at higher rpm at idle
    • restart and again all lights, and engine continues to run
    • get to a parking area, with a jerky motion as I floorboard it just to get it to move
    • after several restarts, finally get most of the lights out and the engine will idle and charge the traction batt. (3 restarts will clear many error lights)
    • 'back up' on the traction batt, again jerk, slip, jerk, slip, etc....
    • disconnect the 12v neg for 5 -10 min or so.
    • restart, no error lights
    • as soon as you touch the acc pedal in any gear, all lights and engine dies.
    • no codes
    • intermittent, engine will run when you touch the gas pedal, but will not pull the car in R or D, just revs up.
    OTHER DIAGNOSTICS:

    • haven't had any axle work done
    • no mechanical noise
    • coolant in inverter flowing well
    • fans come on when ign turned on (cabin or engine cooling?)
    • Inverter/converter checked by 2 dealers and both said it was ok.
    • called Toyota Customer Svc. .
    • pulled the top off of [inverter rjw] a few minutes ago and no burnt anything, no smell, etc.
    • have all shop manuals
    • told me I needed a new transaxle. ($8500 a conservative est. by my local dealers)
    THOUGHTS:

    The engine is started by MG1 via the PSD coupled to a torque limiter (permanent clutch plate) and the drive shaft. If the engine starts at all, then MG1, the MG1 inverter circuit and mechanical path to the engine is 'working.' However, a weak torque limiter might allow the ICE to start but fail when serious power is applied.

    It sounds as if all attempts to draw more power from the engine results in a lot of the current symptoms. It seems to idle but won't pull a load. HYPOTHESIS: throttle or engine controls may be catywompus.

    "No codes" - has me puzzled. Even though the vehicle was power-reset, any subsequent failures should throw a code in one or more of the ECUs. Do you have a scanner or does all scanning have to be done by Toyota?

    If you start the car, leaving it in "P" and idle, does it show a charge to the traction battery?

    Have you tried a 'force charge' by putting the car in "D", holding the brake, and flooring the accelerator? You can also try it in "P" and should see the engine rev up and force a charge on the traction battery.

    If the engine is idling and warmed up, what happens when you put the AC on MAX?

    The "no codes" really has me scratching my head. What sort of scanner do you have?

    If you put the transmission in "N", can you by hand move the car?

    I take it the car is back home. Is it outdoors or in a covered work area?

    A simple test, how does the throttle plate feel?

    It might make sense to check all of the connectors. Yes, they are all latching, which means they have perfect camouflage for coming loose.

    Bob Wilson
     
  10. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    Re: I know it can't... But my tranny is slipping...

    The one and only time I'll feed a troll.

    Thank you Sir, that was very helpfull, but it's already been tried and did not help the car. Perhaps you could take your very Manly comments somewhere they would be appriciated. Merc stands for Mercinary and 05h (Green Beret MOS) is what I did in the Military. Don't think you would be man enough to say that to my face. But I hope you try... Watch out for sharp objects.
    Thanks again, Merc05h
     
  11. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    Re: I know it can't... But my tranny is slipping...

    Nope, an 0302 Marine would have more honor than you display. Wank.
     
  12. V8Cobrakid

    V8Cobrakid Green Handyman

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    Re: I know it can't... But my tranny is slipping...

    i know the newer ones have trac and sorts. that would keep the engine from engaging if it couldn't detect a wheel.

    i'm not too familiar with the classics. i would recommend going to Toyota's technical webpage to download anything you want to know about your car for a small fee (10 a day 50 a week or something like that)
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Re: I know it can't... But my tranny is slipping...

    If warning lights currently appear, then DTC must be stored within one or more of the numerous ECUs: engine, hybrid vehicle, traction battery, etc. In general a drivetrain problem like the one you described sounds like a problem with the hybrid vehicle ECU or the transaxle. The hybrid vehicle ECU serves as the "transmission" ECU.

    It is not necessary to remove the orange traction battery interlock plug, in order to achieve a "reboot" of the various ECUs.


    You say that the inverter, traction battery, and engine compression are good. A few questions/comments for your consideration below:
    • I understand that the dealer techs verified that the inverter and traction battery are OK?
    • How did you check engine compression and what readings were obtained?
    • What was the reason for the hybrid vehicle ECU to be replaced at 60K miles?
    • A DTC should have been retrieved by your Toyota dealer mechanic if warning lights persist.
    • I understand that the transaxle was diagnosed as the failed part, this seems reasonable. Given the age and odometer reading of your car, a salvage part seems the best way to go.
     
  14. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    Thank you for your help Sir. Please continue. --Bob Jones (Merc05h)
     
  15. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    Re: I know it can't... But my tranny is slipping...

    Hope this helps. Thanks, Bob Jones (Merc05h)
     
  16. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    Re: I know it can't... But my tranny is slipping...


    The small fee gives you access to Toyota's Repair Manuals. When I bought the car, I gave $125 for the wireing diagram book and $160 ea, for 2 repair manuals. Already tried that. Bought the 24 hour deal before I found out I already had what I'd just bought. Lesson learned... Thanks, Bob Jones (Merc05h)
     
  17. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Bob Jones,

    I cannot provide useful advice, but I want to encourage you to keep posting. Patrick Wong, Bob Wilson et al are amazing.

    Good Luck !

    p.s. Consider googling Prius transaxle failure. There have been a couple reports documented on the internet, in addition to a writeup by a garage in N. California. I bet the garage wouldn't mind spending a few minutes on the tele to compare notes.
     
  18. bedrock8x

    bedrock8x Senior Member

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    Just a thought, the chain in the transaxle is jambed or broken.
     
  19. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    If that were what was wrong, I wouldn't be able to push it in my garage would I? -- Bob Jones
     
  20. Merc05h

    Merc05h New Member

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    Very good! I'd hoped I wasn't the only one. I'll be sure to check that out! -- Bob Jones (Merc05h)