Numbers in Console Test for 12v battery of any use?

tell me how you get to the console test and i'll tell you my numbers.

 

All things considered, I'd get on replacing that one asap.

A healthy 12 volt would be around 12.6. 11.0 and lower is bad, and being that low for protracted time is worse.

 

yes, but those # under console test (whatever that is) could be under load. the numbers you quote are for resting battery without load.

 

can't do it, don't have Nav. you have to find someone with prius IV to compare or buy a battery load tester.

 

Mine was:

12.5v
11.1 full load (all lights on, rear defroster and full fan)
14.7 powered to ready.


Car is about 4 years old.

iPhone ?

 

I'd say that battery is pretty much toast. Sure, it'll work day to day. But just when you need it to last over a weekend it will fail you. Further, being that low on voltage, it is probably sulphating on its own and will fail totally soon.
If you see 11V, even under a higher load, the battery is not very healthy. Keep in mind the load you are applying is only around 10 Amps with the headlamps on (halogens - less if HID or LED). That's a minor load for a 38 A-Hr battery.
And 6 years old is too old anyway. At least for an OEM Prius battery. Some last longer, but they are few and far between.

 

I wouldn't put much stock in what the navigation readout of the voltage is. In addition to the fact that there's a decent load on the battery in those conditions, the sensor isn't at all accurate or representative of what your actual battery voltage is. When I measured the voltages in my car when it was only a couple months old, the Navigation system told me the battery was 11.5V, but at the exact same time, my multimeter told me it was 12.17V. (Under no load – all doors closed, all lights off, etc. – it was 12.50V.)

I'm still on the same 12V battery, 6 years later - almost exactly. My post was 6 years ago tomorrow!

That said, you'll need a new battery sooner or later, so having it a little sooner probably won't kill you either, and might save you another jump start or two sometime.

 

You can use the stock vent tube on the Optima battery. You -may- have to buy a few bits to adapt it but I think it fits without any.
Check with eLearnaid. They are easy to deal with.

 

I got the Optima a few months back, it's an exact fit, including the vent.

Oh, the height was the slightest bit different, requiring me to add a washer when installing the top bracket.

The latter' a poor design by Toyota: the typical battery hold down hook bolt system is more accommodating to slight variations.

 

Why? There's little reason to worry about that unless you do something weird.

 

Just like saying a Hail Mary, I blow across the top of battery before doing any connection or disconnection. That'll dispell the (very insignificant) hydrogen gas.

Also good to wear safety glasses, at the least. Full face shield even better. I don't do either half the time, but maybe should start.

 

Ha! Hydrogen is extremely light stuff. Any traces of hydrogen near the terminals will have rapidly escaped upwards before you blow, unless it's somehow trapped. I'd worry more about acidic gunk bouncing back in my face.

 

That's fine. Indicates it still has some "surface charge". If it sits long enough it will settle to about 12.1 or so.

 

yes, trickle charge it before installing. it should be around 13, and the car is better at maintaining than charging. if it won't hold 13, send it back. what the build date?

 

When I put in an Optima about 6 months back, after an initial charging it read about 13.15 volt. A day later it settled to around 12.85. It seems now to hang around 12.6-12.7.

Use a smart charger, up to 4-4.5 amp. Let it run to completion. You can put it in first, charge in-car, either way will work.