Oil Consumption in My '13 V/Considering an Experimental Treatment

Discussion in 'Prius v Main Forum' started by tvpierce, Jan 19, 2018.

  1. tvpierce

    tvpierce Senior Member

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    My '13 V (Level 5) with about 100K miles is burning considerable oil. I don't yet have a definitive number, but in the 1 qt/1K miles range when driven at 70-80 mph. Considerably lower consumption at lower speeds. I know, it could be driven slower, but this is Mrs, TV's work car that will be driven 40K miles/year, mostly on the highway. So in the interest of marital harmony, let's just say that slowing down is non-negotiable. ;)

    I realize that one of the causes of the consumption could of course be worn piston rings/cylinder walls, and that the only remedy for that would be a complete rebuild. Let's put that aside for the sake of this discussion, and see if we can try some less obtrusive remedies to rule out other causes.

    That being said, it's also possible that carbon/coking build up on the piston rings *could* be the cause. Since this is much easier and lower-cost issue to correct, I'm going investigate this first.

    I've added an OCC to reduce contaminants coming into the combustion chamber. I've attempted to clean the pistons/rings from the intake side by running 6 bottles of Techron through the the last 10 or so fill-ups (wasn't able to do 6 consecutive fill-ups as this is my wife's car and she frequently handles fillups.) So far, I've not noticed a change.
    My next approach is to try to clean the rings from the inside via oil flush/additives. I have not done this yet. But I'm approaching an oil change interval, and a spark plug change interval. So I had this idea: How about trying to clean the piston rings topically using carburetor cleaner?
    Here's my idea, and I'd like some feedback on it from some of the knowledgeable folks here on PriusChat:
    I bought these extended spray nozzles, and plan to remove the spark plugs, stick the nozzle through the spark plug holes and spray the piston edges with carb cleaner. Let is soak, repeat, soak, repeat, etc. several times on all 4 cylinders. Then install new plugs, run the engine to bring it up to operating temperature, and change the oil.

    Thoughts?
     
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  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I caught out oil consumption at the quart every 4500 miles rate;).

    Since then I have done BG Products EPR flushes before each oil change and the oil comes out jet black (darker than a normal oil change):).

    I’ve also clubbed up to 5w-30 full synthetic oil and that has helped.

    I make sure to go only 0-5 mph above the posted speed limit where it was 5-10 mph before with the higher consumption.

    I’m sure Mrs. TV is “reasonable” or logical. I know when my wife drives our 2010 on trips of distance, I explain the issue and show her how to check the oil level and how to add oil.

    Let’s just say the oil level was a little lower after 1k miles and she didn’t have to add any oil:whistle:.

    Good luck and keep us posted(y).
     
  3. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    As far as experiments, some here have had luck with heavy Techron doses.
    I can't find the thread at the moment as the author @chogan2 has apparently deleted his account.
     
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  4. tvpierce

    tvpierce Senior Member

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    There was a lengthy, comprehensive thread in the Gen-2 forum where the OP noted remarkable reduction in oil consumptin after 6 doses of Techron. He also continued with follow up reports as he racked up the miles.
     
  5. farmecologist

    farmecologist Senior Member

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    I'm trying that now on our 2010. Purchased a case (six 20 ouncers) of techron and am using it on every tank. Nothing to report yet. Probably will really start monitoring after the spring oil change. Right now we are in 'winter survival/hibernation' mode. :D
     
  6. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    What would be good stuff to put in there? Maybe even a non-aerosol, something poured in with a funnel with extension? What would be best carbon buster, that would also not put the kibosh on subsequent startup attempts.
     
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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Would it be worthwhile to remove the passenger front wheel and turn the engine the engine manually a few times, then maybe suck the stuff back out with an extension tube? Just floating ideas.

    I've got a hunch it's pretty hard to de-carbon and free-up rings without disassemble though, if that was the issue. :(
     
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  9. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    I have never tried this stuff but if you want to remove carbon from an engine check this out.



    There are other videos showing it sprayed into the intake when running but you can't deny that it removes carbon.
     
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  10. tvpierce

    tvpierce Senior Member

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    Hi Mendel. Thanks for your input.
    That's a good idea to manually rotate the engine. Question though: since there are no accessories driven by belts, is there even a drive pully with a nut at the front of this engine?
    (Edit: Just went out and looked. Indeed there is a conventional serpentine belt pully with nothing running off of it... perfect!)
    Regarding fluid/solution to use: is was thinking something thin and strong like carb cleaner, acetone, maybe the Mopar fluid in the video above. The thought being that if the pistions won't hold air (blowby) then they won't hold this liquid either, so it will readily flow down to reach all 3 the rings, and in doing so, would make extraction of the fluid a non-issue --. it will just end up in the oil, which is going to be changed anyway
    I too am just floating ideas at this point. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

    I think your hunch may be right. But this would be so simple to do, and because it's direct, topical application of a concentrated fluid, it would seem it might be more effective than a fuel additive (like Techron) or an oil additive.
     
    #10 tvpierce, Jan 30, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2018
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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    Yeah in the video the fluid percolates down, past the rings, in a matter of minutes.

    If you've ever done a valve clearance adjustment you'll be familiar with manually turning the engine. With spark plugs out it's even easier; you're not fighting compression (which is not that hard to overcome).

    I've just got this odd back-of-head thought: is this impossible with the Prius transaxle and the parking pawl? I don't think so but not 100% sure.
     
  12. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    I've been considering doing something like this, a piston soak, with Marvel mystery oil. Pull the plugs, use a funnel to pour it in, let it soak through and repeat. If it's going to get into the ring channels (not sure of tech term) then I imagine it's going to need a bit of time to soak in and move around the perimeter. One of the advantages I saw is that nasty harsh chemicals aren't being introduced into the oil system. To go even further, you could drain a quart of oil and replace with Marvel mystery oil until it's time for the oil change. Apparently you can run it that way for a whole oil interval as it's not harsh on the engine. That way, you're addressing the rings from above and below.
    Lots of youtube videos out there to watch, from what I've seen is it seems to work, slowly.
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sunday driver DIY’r

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    The stuff does seem to make it through, when poured from the top, in a minute or two. With the MMO, do it in conjunction with an oil change? When refilling, reduce fill by one quart, pour in one quart of MMO via the spark plug holes, let car sit this as long as possible, at least overnight. Confirm MMO has seeped through, down to crankcase, by checking dipstick.

    I'd be inclined to be real cautious afterward, run it thus just a week or two, listening carefully, avoid high speeds and hard acceleration, hill climbs, then do another oil change per usual. For sure check/drain Oil Catch Can if you have one.

    Addendum: MMO site says to use 20% of oil capacity when adding to crankcase, so 4.5 (quarts) times .2 or 0.9 quarts. More-or-less one quart.

    Of interest:

    Excessive Oil Consuption Significantly Worse in 2010 Model? | Page 3 | PriusChat

    Same thread, further down the page:

    Excessive Oil Consuption Significantly Worse in 2010 Model? | Page 3 | PriusChat
     
    #13 Mendel Leisk, Jan 30, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2018
  14. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    I have used Marvel Mystery Oil with success in the past. My wife inherited her dads 1960 Buick Electra and it had been years since it ran.
    On start up one of the lifters was really noisy at idle. I put a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in it and ran it in the garage then let it sit for a couple of days. When I started the car up it clattered a few time and the noise went away and never came back. My wife said that car made that noise for years. Marvel Mystery Oil has detergents in it similar to automatic transmission fluid. If you have grease on your hands you can wash it off with Marvel Mystery Oil. A good product and been around for years. I use it for air tool oil.
     
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  15. tvpierce

    tvpierce Senior Member

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    I've done my share of valve adjustments -- I've had motorcycles all my adult life.

    It'll work fine. The engine spins feely in neutral and park -- otherwise it couldn't idle while parked.
     
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  16. tvpierce

    tvpierce Senior Member

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    The goal of this precedure is precisely to have a high concentration of nasty harsh chemicals come in direct contact with the problem area. It seems the easiest, most effective way to accomplish this is is to use a chemical that will readily drain past the rings negating the need to extract excess fluid.

    The key feature being to change the oil right after it's done.

    And to be clear, this is speculative at this point. I welcome any input.

    Thanks!
     
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  17. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    This Liquimoly stuff was my plan B, if the less aggressive Marvel mystery oil didn't work.I hadn't thought of using it as a soak though. Maybe you could do a piston soak with this too? I read a lot of good about it, but couldn't figure out why it was better than any others.
    http://amzn.to/2FxOx3L
     
  18. tvpierce

    tvpierce Senior Member

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    What's the consistency/viscosity of the Liquimoly? Is it thin like a solvent, or is it suspended in oil?
     
  19. Bunce

    Bunce Active Member

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    From videos, no personal experience, it appears it's thin solvent.
     
  20. farmecologist

    farmecologist Senior Member

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    Hmm I wonder if this is similar to the BG EPR many of us have tried :

     
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